DIY Kydex

[BrettonJudy7]

At my old job, a buddy told me he made his own kydex holster for his Glock 17. Anyone on here ever make your own kydex holster?

 

[hpclayto]

I used to for many years. Login Required | KydexPro.com is a good resource. PhillyEDC YouTube channel is an excellent place to start. If you’re just wanting one or two things for yourself don’t bother with the DIY route. The learning curve is pretty steep although all of the products available today make the process 1000x easier than it used to be.

 

[lonehoosier]

Yes, only got into it because I am left handed and it was hard to find holster that I wanted. Also if you don’t have a popular gun it may be worth do it too.

 

[Dorky_D]

You literally cannot go wrong with some of these pre-formed shells. You just have to heat up the center fold with a heat gun, and press into place, put on your attachment hardware and a few screws and you have a good holster for several popular guns. Their mag pouches are good too (although, I had to add a gel heel cup to keep my mag [not the pouch] from digging in. The mag pouches are about like any others out there. Most of these holsters are under $10, and if you add the hardware from the site, you can easily have a rig for under $15-$20 depending on what you choose to attach to the belt.
Vacu-Formed shells - DIY Holster LLC

 

[Ruffnek]

I used to for many years. Login Required | KydexPro.com is a good resource. PhillyEDC YouTube channel is an excellent place to start. If you’re just wanting one or two things for yourself don’t bother with the DIY route. The learning curve is pretty steep although all of the products available today make the process 1000x easier than it used to be.

I'm thinking about getting into this because I can't find specifically what I want. If you have the time, I have a couple of questions.

1) Making a taco-style holster, how/where do you create retention with a light-bearing holster? Revolvers?

2) Aside from the press, eyelet die, and digital thermometer, are there any other "specialty" tools I may need?

3) Which vendors do you recommend for things like colored eyelets and cool kydex colors?

I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions as time goes on, assuming you're willing to answer them.

 

[hpclayto]

I'm thinking about getting into this because I can't find specifically what I want. If you have the time, I have a couple of questions.

1) Making a taco-style holster, how/where do you create retention with a light-bearing holster? Revolvers?

2) Aside from the press, eyelet die, and digital thermometer, are there any other "specialty" tools I may need?

3) Which vendors do you recommend for things like colored eyelets and cool kydex colors?

I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions as time goes on, assuming you're willing to answer them.

No problem, I still enjoy discussing the craft.

1. It depends on the geometry of the specific light so I can'y really give you a good answer for that other than the light itself vs all of it being in the trigger guard with a non light bearing holster. It's something that you'll just have to figure out as you go. I always incorporated adjustable retention in mine. Sometimes that in and of itself is enough and some times you may need to create a dimple on the light body somewhere.

2. You'll need a way tp heat up your kydex. They emit some nasty fumes at a certain temp so dont go using your household oven. I used just a regular toaster oven for the first couple of years and eventually upgraded to a heat press (used for t shirt embroidery). The advantage there is being able to heat bigger and/or two pieces at the same time which cuts down on time if doing pancake holsters as you can press both halves at the same time. More than likely a simple toaster oven will serve you just fine, just make sure you get one thats bug enough to fit what you'll need in it. A dremel with cutoff wheels and various sized sanding heads will be helpful but not necessarily required. Ypu'll need a way to cut out your shell and finish your edges once it's pressed. There are a ton of different ways to do edges. I had a bench top scroll saw That left a pretty rough cut. From there I had a sisal wheel on a benchtop grinder that would smooth things out pretty well and pretty quick. From there I would wet sand everything from 240 grit on up to 600 and then sort of polish everything off with a scotchbrite pad.

3. As far as vendors i'm not really sure if anyone new has started up since I got out of it but the ones I used most were knifekits and index fastener, granted I mostly did plain black unless someone wanted a special color then i would order it.

Any other questions let me know.

 

[Ruffnek]

No problem, I still enjoy discussing the craft.

1. It depends on the geometry of the specific light so I can'y really give you a good answer for that other than the light itself vs all of it being in the trigger guard with a non light bearing holster. It's something that you'll just have to figure out as you go. I always incorporated adjustable retention in mine. Sometimes that in and of itself is enough and some times you may need to create a dimple on the light body somewhere.

2. You'll need a way tp heat up your kydex. They emit some nasty fumes at a certain temp so dont go using your household oven. I used just a regular toaster oven for the first couple of years and eventually upgraded to a heat press (used for t shirt embroidery). The advantage there is being able to heat bigger and/or two pieces at the same time which cuts down on time if doing pancake holsters as you can press both halves at the same time. More than likely a simple toaster oven will serve you just fine, just make sure you get one thats bug enough to fit what you'll need in it. A dremel with cutoff wheels and various sized sanding heads will be helpful but not necessarily required. Ypu'll need a way to cut out your shell and finish your edges once it's pressed. There are a ton of different ways to do edges. I had a bench top scroll saw That left a pretty rough cut. From there I had a sisal wheel on a benchtop grinder that would smooth things out pretty well and pretty quick. From there I would wet sand everything from 240 grit on up to 600 and then sort of polish everything off with a scotchbrite pad.

3. As far as vendors i'm not really sure if anyone new has started up since I got out of it but the ones I used most were knifekits and index fastener, granted I mostly did plain black unless someone wanted a special color then i would order it.

Any other questions let me know.

Awesome, thanks!

 

[Ruffnek]

I've come up with another question. I don't have a bench grinder/polisher or a belt sander. I do have a Dremel though, and I was planning to use it for edge work since I'm not gonna be cranking these out like a factory. I found a Dremel drill press stand at Lowe's and this small drill press at Menard's. They're both within my budget for this project and either would be beneficial to have around for other things. I'm just not sure which option would be better. Dremel has their sanding and polishing accessory kits so finding the right bit is a no brainer, but what would be the best bit selection to sand and polish with the normal drill press? Any input?

 

[chezuki]

Drill presses are not designed for lateral force, so the dremel/stand would win IMO for what you’re doing.

Check Harbor Freight for a cheapo belt sander. You’re shaping thin plastic edges, so the cheapest sander should suffice just fine. Might also try Craigslist.

 

[Ruffnek]

More questions I've come up with:

1) Obviously, people put weapon lights in their press to make light bearing holsters so I'm pretty sure that's not gonna be an issue, but what about the RMR? Can it stand up to that kind of pressure? Should I just hang the portion of the slide that has the RMR outside of the press? I plan on using a taco-style press if it makes a difference.

2) Are eyelets/rivets necessary or would Chicago screws be fine to put everything together?

 

[hpclayto]

More questions I've come up with:

1) Obviously, people put weapon lights in their press to make light bearing holsters so I'm pretty sure that's not gonna be an issue, but what about the RMR? Can it stand up to that kind of pressure? Should I just hang the portion of the slide that has the RMR outside of the press? I plan on using a taco-style press if it makes a difference.

2) Are eyelets/rivets necessary or would Chicago screws be fine to put everything together?

I’ve pressed RMR’s before with no ill effects. I believe it was a Trijicon but I can’t say for sure. You’ll probably be fine but if you’re able to you might want to remove it just to be safe.

What kind of holster are are you referring to with rivets? Pancakes and any tacos without adjustable retention will need rivets.

 

[Ruffnek]

I’ve pressed RMR’s before with no ill effects. I believe it was a Trijicon but I can’t say for sure. You’ll probably be fine but if you’re able to you might want to remove it just to be safe.

What kind of holster are are you referring to with rivets? Pancakes and any tacos without adjustable retention will need rivets.

If I can, I'd like to leave the RMR on. I already have a handful of guns that need dialed in.

I plan on doing taco holsters. I got the material last night to build the coffeebum taco press. Am I understanding correctly that holsters with adjustable retention need the flat piece of wood on the bottom side of the gun, whereas holsters with fixed retention don't need that blocking?

 

[JeepHammer]

Yes, only got into it because I am left handed and it was hard to find holster that I wanted. Also if you don’t have a popular gun it may be worth do it too.

No kidding.
Try to find popular holsters in left handed versions...
I practice both right & left handed so I try to find holsters in both left & right, and sometimes I buy holsters I don't particularly care for simply because they come in both left & right.

I also like paddle holsters since I don't drag a side arm everywhere, and left handed paddle holsters don't grow on trees.

I've molded leather before, but not worked with kydex.
Not that I need a new hobby, but kydex just might be an option.

 

[hpclayto]

If I can, I'd like to leave the RMR on. I already have a handful of guns that need dialed in.

I plan on doing taco holsters. I got the material last night to build the coffeebum taco press. Am I understanding correctly that holsters with adjustable retention need the flat piece of wood on the bottom side of the gun, whereas holsters with fixed retention don't need that blocking?

Yes you have to create space underneath the trigger guard to place spacers in if you want adjustable retention. If not, you’ll still place a river there to keep the holster together. You can later adjust the retention if need by using a heat gun.