Reloading Essentials IMHO

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  • jsn_mooney

    Marksman
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    Nov 3, 2008
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    South Of Richmond
    I've had a couple of buddies ask me lately "what do I need to get into reloading?" I've thought about it, and although I don't claim to be an expert by any means, I have been doing it a while, and I wanted to sit down and figure out what I really use, and what I have just because I bouhgt it thinking I needed. I finally came up with something I think my fellow INGO brothers and sisters will hopefully find useful. I've put Midway P/Ns and prices on everything I've listed, I use Midway the most when I order stuff, and that way you can go to their catalog or website and see what I'm talking about.The prices listed are full retail prices just to give you an idea, everybody runs sales, and alot of this stuff can be bought used. I only ask that if you are one of those people that fail to realize everything has limits- read no further, reloading is not for you, and everybody will be a little safer if you continue to buy your ammo across the counter. For everybody else, lets pretend you've just got a sweet deal on one of those evil black rifles and now you are looking to keep it well fed and happy.

    Bench- good and sturdy, homemade or store bought will work.
    BenchCabinetopen.jpg

    Press- single stage I prefer RCBS but Lee,Lyman, Redding all make good ones. Deals can be had on used ones, spring for a dustcover they help keeping things tidy. Rock Chucker Supreme Press #513-567 $125.99 Dustcover #258-088 $12.99

    Scale- I'm sold on the Lyman DPS, there are others that are similar. They aren't cheap but, they're fast and accurate. Lyman 1200 DPS 3 #279-731 $280.99

    Powder Funnel- gets powder from scale pan and into case rather than on case, buy the kit. MTM Funnel Kit #613-906 $15.45

    Dies- I like RCBS but its up to you.Supposedly, Small-Base dies are better for Pump and Autoloader feeding, I use them. RCBS Small Base Die set .223 Remington #469-170 $33.99. Also a Universal decapping die is useful because it allows you to de-prime dirty cases which means you can de prime before you tumble before you size the cases. RCBS Universal Decapping die #372-023 $15.99

    Priming Tool- I have bought and tried 2 different kinds of hand-held and press mounted primers. I like the priming arm that came with my press best of all. It's slow but it doesnt jam up.

    Shellholders- Presses don't come with the shellholders, and neither do die sets. You can buy these individually for about $5ea but I've found the best deal is to just buy the Lee set. Nobody reloads for only 1 caliber- you'll see. Lee Universal Shellholder set #786-187 $20.99

    Case Lube- you have to lube the cases before you size them or they will stick in the die, evenually you'll stick one anyhow. I've tried pads and powder and didn't like either, best thing I've found is Hornady spray lube-instructions are on the can. Hornady 1 shot case lube #438-512 $6.59

    Stuck Case Remover- if you are really careful, you may never stick one. It took me a couple of years before I did. When I did, I junked a $50 Forster BR die trying to get it out. You may get lucky but for the money its good piece of mind. Hornady stuck case remover #131-002 $13.79

    Tumbler- I didn't have one at first, but now,I don't see how I got away with it. Midway has a kit that has everything you need and often run them on sale. I the use corn-cob for cleaning and walnut for polishing. FA tumbler kit #413-369 $73.99

    Case Trimmer- I've used lathe-type case trimmers but- the cheapest, best, and easiest I have found by far are the ones from Lee that you chuck the shellholder in a drill. Lee case length guage/shellholder .223 Rem #107-333 and Lee cutter w/ ball grip #136-199 $5.89. They are caliber specific and do a slick job of making sure everthing is the same length and your casemouths are square.

    Case Prep Kit- Lyman makes a kit that you chuck in a drill and it allows you to de-burr/chamfer your case mouths after trimming as well as clean necks and primer pockets and remove the military crimp from primer pockets. Lyman Accessory kit #394-805 $30.49

    Flash hole uniformer- Lyman makes a tool that I removed the handle to chuck it in my drill. It's got an adjustable stop-collar on it, which is what you want. Maybe I'm foolin myself but, if all the flash holes are de-burred on the inside and all the same diameter-that has to be a good thing. Lyman Flash Hole Uniformer #729-748 $11.99

    Case Length Guage- Piece of aluminum with cut-outs of max lenghts of about every cartridge known to man. Invaluable when checking to see if your brass needs trimmed after sizing. Much faster than checking every one with calipers. Lyman E-Zee Case Length Guage II #559-802 $19.49

    Lee Decapper- if you reload military brass you'll need one of these. They knock out the old crimped-in primer without breaking the decapping pins in your die. They also make one for 7.62. Lee Decapper and Base 22 cal #297-408 $5.39

    Calipers- the digitals are so much easier to use. Needed for your COL measurements amoung other things.FA 6" Digital Calipers #604-242 $23.99

    Bullet Puller- sooner or later you'll screw something up and this will save your components for re-use. Get the one that looks like a hammer, the press mounted ones tend to chew up bullets. FA Bullet Puller #215-517 $14.79

    Loading Blocks- I prefer the caliber specific ones, I have made them out of wood but the plastic ones are easier to clean case lube off of. FA Perfect- Fit Reloading Blocks .223 REM #888-804 $7.19

    Ammo Boxes- House brand work well for me, MTM's are a little more expensive. I usually buy by the 10pk. FA flip-top 50rd box (10pk) #282-761 $19.99

    Manual- To me, the Nosler book is the best, and I have several.Step by step instructions for reloading are covered in the book- so, you really don't need an "ABCs"-type book as well.The internet is full of reloading sites with loads people have worked up- always bounce their numbers against your book to see what the max is, when in doubt the rule of thumb is to reduce by 10% and work up from there. Hornady's website also has a ballistics calculator on it that will figure the drop/drift for your load if you know the velocity (& BC but it has BCs listed for all Hornady bullets) Nosler 6th edition reloading manual #894-640 $20.99

    -Chronograph- if you have the coin buy one up front, you'll use it more than you think, if not- get one as quick as you can. An F1 from Shooting Chrony is about as basic as it gets but it still gets the job done. Also, if you should let the air out of a Shooting Chrony Chronograph, you can send it back and get $50 off another one- ask me how I know?-always remember that a scope on an AR sits about 2.5" above the bore. F1 Standard Chrony #531-741 $79.99

    Now all you need is some brass, bullets, powder, primers and a little bit of time. I buy once-fired brass because its alot cheaper than new, and I'm getting over 10 loadings at least on a case so missing out on 1 isn't a big deal to me. Also remember that new brass still needs sized, and possibly trimmed(unless you go with Nosler $$$)and if you get the processed stuff from Scharch it requires no prep. You can go cheaper but there's alot of work involved. Check around and see who has the bullets you are going to use on sale, usually, either Natchez or Midway will. Powder in the 1lb cans you'll probably be wanting to start out with for load development are better picked up someplace so the Hazmat fee doesn't apply. Varget, Reloader 7 and Reloader 15 work well for me in the .223. Primers are also best picked up to avoid hazmat fees the 1500 is probably your best bet, you'll need either CCI #41 Arsenal Primers or some kind of Small Rifle Magnum Primers for an AR- CCI#450/Wolf etc. They say that due to the floating firing pin of an AR the possibility of a slamfire exists when chambering a round loaded with a standard primer- basically magnum primers are "harder". I've gotten by with using the standard primers, but I don't use them anymore-why chance it.
    I hope that this helps anybody who is looking to get started in reloading but doesn't really know what they need to get it going. That kept me from getting started for quite a while because there is just so much stuff out there, and I had no idea what did what, etc. It's not really that hard, and you can make reloading as simple, or complicated as you wish. Good luck, like I said, I'm no expert, if anybody has a better way of doing something chime in- thats what its all about.

    ReloadingBench2.jpg
     
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    Dec 7, 2008
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    Greenfield
    Thanks for the great info! +1

    As a young kid, I used to help my father reload and it was a great way for us to spend time together. He was very maticulous and had a kick a** bench. I wish I had pictures so I could set mine up just like it. He has long since left us, and I have wanted to get into reloading for the past 8 years or so. I even bought the rock chucker supreme kit and a few accessories about 4 years ago, but it has set in a closet with box unopened ever since. I suppose the idea of getting started without some help and guidance is a bit intimidating.

    Thanks to you and the help of all the other fine folks willing to share their knowledge and answer questions, I will be setting up my bench in the next few months!! (As soon as the wife and I can agree on placement!! Whats wrong with the master bedroom serving as a reloading workshop?) :dunno:

    Thanks again!
     

    jsn_mooney

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    Nov 3, 2008
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    South Of Richmond
    Thanks for all the kind words, and the cyphering. You can do alot better if you're patient and you do alot of shopping around and hopefully running across some of the stuff used. The prices are just to give a ball-park estimate, sometimes it's nice to know what things are supposed to cost before entering into "deals".
     

    kludge

    Grandmaster
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    Mar 13, 2008
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    I started almost 20 years ago with a Lee Anniversary kit, a set of Lee dies, a Lee case trimmer chucked in a variable speed drill, calipers, a couple free reloading pamplets from the powder companies, a piece of wood to mount the press to, and a couple C-clamps (which I already had) - probably <$150 at the time, and probably still <$150.

    My setup today is not much more elagant. I have a Lee turret press, a tumbler, and a couple good reloading manuals (plus more powders, bullets, and dies).

    I reload ~1k-2k rounds per year.
     

    Claddagh

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    If I know that the person asking is on a particularly tight budget, I usually recommend one of the Lee combo deals, with either a turret or the newer "Breech Lock" single-stage press and about every other basic tool they'd need to get started. At under $200, it's something within the reach of most folks. Some packages even include a die set and manual.

    Just my own $0.02, but either these kits with either press setup offer the newbie a lot of versatility for his cash while they're getting the basic skill sets sorted out.
     
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    Dec 7, 2008
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    Greenfield
    I have a quick question (or two) for the current reloaders....any reason you can't or shouldn't have your bench in a garage? Does warm/cold air or moisture impact the reloading components enought to alter? I would assume you wouldn't want to keep your powder there all the time, but you could transport it from the house to garage when necessary, correct?

    My biggest issue right now is space, and the garage is the next logical place for me to try to squeeze it in.

    Thanks in advance for the feedback!
     

    Claddagh

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    The main issue I have with an unheated garage or a basement lacking a dehumidifier is with rust and airborne dust, etc. on my tools and equipment. If you don't check often and thoroughly for signs of impending trouble and act to counter them, your investment can go down the tube in short order.

    For space considerations, you might want to check out the portable reloading stand from Midway USA. I've been using one since I lived in a small apartment over a decade ago, and they work very nicely. Your whole press set-up can easily be moved to and stored in a small closet when not in actual use. I still use mine, as I found it to be a very practical way to have several press set-ups handy while taking up an absolute minimum of living space. I bought a new top piece for each press, and made a storage fixture out of a piece of 2x12, a couple of flanges and some pipe to hold the other setups upright and ready to go. Now it's just a matter of swapping one top for another to switch from Lee Pro 1000 in .357, Dillon SDB in .45 or 9x19, or Hornady Lock 'N Load single stage for everything else.

    It also allows me to use a small, solid workbench in one corner of a spare bedroom very efficiently for all the ancillary stuff like a powder measure, trimmer, digital scale, case prep tools, die and shell holder storage, etc.
     

    JByer323

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    Jan 8, 2009
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    Noblesville, IN
    Dillon Progressive Presses 101 (Mostly 550B)

    First of all, I am by no means an expert, and I know there are those of you who have been reloading longer then I've been alive. Having said that, I've been loading since I was 18, and feel I am fairly proficient with handgun calibers.

    First of all, let's bust the number one myth of reloading. Reloading does not save you money. Casting may save you money, but reloading won't. Why? Because I guarantee you are going to shoot more then you did when you were buying ammunition. You'll shoot more for the same amount of money, but if you go into reloading thinking you're going to save money, you're delusional (or have more self control then I do). :D

    First off, the disclaimers. I am not a doctor, nor do I play one on TV. I didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn express last night. I don't work for CSI, and while I may have taught Jack Bauer everything he knows, that's not really relative here. I also like moonlit walks on the beach. What I'm trying to get to here is if you blow yourself up, I am not responsible. Cool? Cool. :rockwoot:

    Reloading really is relatively simple. Assuming you're starting with fired brass (and we're talking straight neck pistol cases here for light target loads) you're going to need to clean the cases, deprime them, resize them, add a new primer, dump a charge, bell the case neck, seat the bullet, and crimp that sucker. It took you longer to read that then it did to understand the jist of reloading.

    So you think you're interested, huh? I do recommend going out and picking up the book The ABC's of Reloading, just because it gives you a walkthrough of different types, and let's you get a feel for what equipment you'll need, and if it's really right for you. Speaking of if it's right, reloading isn't for everyone. If you're not good with following directions, or allow yourself to get distracted easily by shiny things, it's probably not for you. If you think you know everything and you're above doing your homework, please, just stay away. But if you can successfully bake something without burning down the house, you're probably golden. Pick up a reloading manual or eight as well. For handguns I like Speerhttp://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=537267 and Hornady, but everyone has their personal favorites, and you'll certainly acquire more as you go. Some of the powder companies put out booklets too, and they're worth picking up. Read all of their intros well, they have good information too.

    So you've done your research, and you are ready to take the plunge, huh? jsn_mooney did a good write up on single stages, so I'm going to talk about progressives, since that's what I use primarily.

    Both types have their plusses and minuses. You can do everything you want to on a single stage press, and if you're shooting benchrest or highpower, by all means, rock out that single stage. But if you're like me and you have an overly developed trigger finger and can burn through the pistol calibers, a progressive might be for you. You can certainly reload very high quality ammo on a progressive press, and with some work sub MOA loadings aren't out of the realm, but if you're talking accuracy that's measure in the 0.001", then stick with the single stage, and trickle all your measures.

    On a single stage, you're going to be loading in batches. After tumbling, you're going to decap (the primer) and size. That's a die or two, and you're going to do 100-300 cases at a time. Change dies. Then bell/expand. Change dies. Then resize. Change dies. Seat the bullet, and you're done. On a turret press, like the Redding, you can place up to seven dies in the toolhead, so instead of changes dies, you can leave them all set up, and work in batches, rotating the toolhead when you complete each set.

    A progressive press operates slightly differently. With each pull of the handle, a round is completed. Most progressives are either four or five stations (the number of dies in each toolhead). I'll walk you through the setup on a Dillon RL 550B.


    • The first stage is going to resize and decap the brass on the downstroke, and on the upstroke you'll seat a new primer. You will then rotate (index) the brass by hand (on the 550B), sending it to the next station. Insert a new piece of brass into station one.
    • The second station will add powder to the case and bell the case mouth. Index the machine, adding a new piece of brass to the first station.
    • The third station seats the bullet, and you can crimp too, but I prefer to do it in separate steps. Place a bullet on the belled case, raise that sucker up, and you've seated your bullet, then check visually to make sure a proper powder charge was placed in station two and put a bullet on it, then index the press, which makes sure that nothing gets double charged. Place a new piece of brass in station one.
    • The fourth stage applies the crimp to the round and ejects it. Add a bullet to station two, index, and add a new piece of brass to station one.
    • Keep adding a bullet at the end to station two and a new piece of brass after you've indexed, and each time you pull the handle a new round will be made.

    Hopefully that makes sense. After all the stations have brass in it, each pull of the lever is going to do multiple steps. Using a Dillon 550B, you can pump out 400-600 rounds an hour, without a case feeder.

    Now people say that you should start out with a single stage press, because even after you move to a progressive, you're still going to use a single stage for special steps, and they're easier to learn on. This does have some merit. Progressive presses take some fiddling to get them dialed in right, you need to be able to follow directions and being a little mechanically inclined helps. But you can work a progressive as a single stage. Just don't add new brass, and index each piece individually through the stages. Do this for a couple hundred rounds, and I guarantee you'll start using the press progressively.

    So you want a progressive press you've decided. Which one, and what brand? Brand is easy. Dillon. It's a better press then the RCBS or Hornady LNL, is easier to set up, has a lifetime warranty (Dillon's warranty is renown), plus amazing customer support. If you think Glock guys are Kool-Aid drinkers, you ain't seen nothing yet!

    Dillon makes four progressive metallic loading presses, the Square B Deal, RL 550B, XL 650, and Super 1050 B. I'll help you try to rule them out.


    • Assuming you're a beginner, the Super 1050 B is out. Assuming you know the ropes, but shoot less then a gazillion rounds of ammo a month, aren't a top action pistol competitor, or don't own an ammunition company, the 1050 is out.
    • If you're new to reloading, the XL 650 is also out, IMO. It's more complicated and difficult to get set up, and it's better to learn the ropes on something more basic. If you need a 650, you're already reloading, and know you need one, and this guide isn't for you. It has an optional case feeder that is pretty much mandatory, five stations, and auto indexes. Auto indexing is nice, some people say it's safer since there's very little chance of double charging, but with proper usage, you should never double charge, as you're checking each case visually. You can reload 1000 rounds an hour or a bit more with the casefeeder.
    • The Square B Deal is an auto indexing four station press that loads only certain handgun calibers. You don't want it. It's not flexible enough, and in the end you're not going to be pleased.
    • Which leaves us with the RL 550B. This is a four station, manual indexing press. The manual indexing allows you to use it as a single stage, and with the proper accessories, dies, and techniques, you can load match grade ammo on it. It loads for over 120 calibers, from .22 Rem Jet and .30 Mauser to 500 S&W and .460 Weatherby. That's a range right there. It's also relatively easy to change calibers on, less then 10 minutes if you're not having to change primer size. It has an available casefeeder, but it's only available for some pistol cartridges, though there's talk of it becoming available for .223. I'd stay away from the casefeed unless you reload mostly pistol calibers, and a variety of them at that. If you only reload one or two calibers in super bulk, get a XL 650, but again, if you're at that level, you're not a beginner. This press can do 600 rounds an hour or so, closer to 800 with a casefeeder.

    I'm going to start another post with a Dillon accessory guide, this one is long enough as it is. Again, this is based only on my experience, dealings, and opinions, so take it for what it's worth.

    Useful Links to Check Out:
    "Which Machine is right for you?" by Dillon Precision
    "Dillon Reloader Manuals" by Dillon Precision
    "Which Dillon?" by Brian Enos
    "Dillon FAQ" by Brian Enos
     
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    JByer323

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    Accessories for reloading with a progressive press (550B heavy

    If you're reloading on a progressive, the majority of useful accessories are shared with those using single stage presses, but there are some specialized tools as well. I'll go over some, and also talk about what toys you need to make your Dillon really run like a clock.

    The first and most important tool on your bench is a pair of safety glasses. Make it like three pairs, so when you lose a pair and a buddy comes down to watch everybody is cool. Seriously, if you pop a primer (and God willing, never a whole tube) you need to be protected. It doesn't happen very often, but I one had a piece of .45 ACP brass with a Federal primer get in with my fired cases, and when depriming it, it went off and scared the **** out of me.

    Next up is a good set of calipers. Digital ones make it easy to take readings quickly, and are probably more repeatable. But man, I've been having trouble with the two (cheap) pairs I've bought, so I'm using a dial one right now. If you're gonna leave the thing to sit for a week or more, take the damn battery out. I think they like to turn themselves on and drain their own batteries, but I'm not sure. I'm trying to convince myself that I need to invest in a $200 Japanese set and that I could use it for other stuff, but that's a big chunk of change.

    Scales are pretty simple. You have balance beam scales, and digital scales, and there are a couple people that make electronic powder measures with build in digital scales, but I've got no experience with them. If you can afford it, go with a digital if you're serious about doing this at all. If not, a balance scale is fine, but make sure it's magnetically dampened. I use the electronic Dillon scale and got the cover as well, it works great, and based on the check weights my dad has, is accurate and stays accurate.

    A kinetic bullet puller is a good call, it lets you take apart your mess ups. A collet style bullet puller is better, but is caliber specific.

    I shoot mostly pistol cases, so I don't have a fancy trimmer, flash hole uniformer, chamfer tool, primer pocket cleaner, metplat uniformer, or any of the other fancy case prep toys. I'm not saying you don't need them, but I don't use them, so I'm not opininated enough to be comfortable telling you all what brands I like or dislike. :D

    I do however, have a vibratory case cleaner and a case/media separator. The smaller Dillon ones can hold 500 .45 ACP rounds, or 200 30-06 rounds, while the bigger one will rock out 550 30-06 rounds or 1300 .38 Special. I have the smaller one, though I do sometimes question if I should have gotten the bigger one. You'll ned walnut or corn media and a brass polisher of some sort, everyone has their own opinions of what works best. If you toss half a dryer sheet in with it, it'll keep the dust down, and your ammo will come out smelling rain fresh, which is pretty important.

    Case gauges are a cute idea, but I've never really had a need for them. Oh well, one more thing to sit on my bench.

    Oh, you're going to need some sort primer flip tray. Just buy the Dillon one. The plastic ones blow. Dillons prime out of a tube magazine, so you don't need any sort of hand primer. Just pick up some extra primer tubes, load them up before you start loading, and go to town. They use to sell a pack of two small and two large, I don't see it on their website, you might give them a call though. If you're really boss, you've got one of these suckers. I was holding off because people on Brian Eno's forum were having to install rheostats to get them to work well, but no the machine has one. I don't like messing with primers, they're scary, so this machine with the big fat blast screen appeals.

    Case lube of some type is needed if are reloading rifle brass, but it helps with handguns too, carbide dies or no. If you're doing rifle, you'll need a set of neck lubrication brushes. I use Hornady One Shot case lube. Once you try it, you will too, and you'll send me rep to tell me how awesome I am for turning you onto it. It doesn't mess up primers or powder, it dries quick, isn't gross, and it's easy.

    I have some stuff I need to go do, but I'll finish this tonight and talk about Dillon caliber conversions, what works, what's not needed, and why.
     
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    Jan 23, 2008
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    Southport
    I have a pretty nasty basement and all my reloading gear has been there for 15+ years in dust and dirt, mainly from a remodel. All my gear is still very usable and i have my bench in the basement mainly for security reasons, the garage is detached. The main safety issue is in handling primers, especially in priming tools, and double and triple check all powder charges. It is kind of a rush to shoot your own reloads. I have two single stage presses, one for decapping, an old Rockchucker, and a Redding Boss 2 for everything else.
     
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    Dec 7, 2008
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    Greenfield
    Thanks for all of the feedback! I appreciate it. I have not set up shop in my garage for the reasons Claddagh mentioned, specifically moisture and condensation is what I worry about. Dust, etc I can handle as I am fairly maticulous. I have seen the portable tables from Midway, but the didn't appear to be very sturdy. Am I incorrect on that? I suppose the security issue is at hand also, although my garage is attached, it would be by far the easiest part of the house to get into.

    I suppose I am off to think about bench placement some more and continue my research!!

    :coffee:

    Thanks again!
     

    El Cazador

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    Jan 17, 2009
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    I have one of the Midway (Frankford Arsenal) portable tables, with an extra top for a second press. It's plenty sturdy, even with a Rockchucker single stage press on it. Sometimes I do brace the pivot of the arm with my off hand, just for something to do while I watch the die work. It's a good buy.

    On the location of the bench, I've got old jeans legs sewn together on one end for dust sleeves. That, and wiping the bright metal areas that need to work smoothly with a light coating of gun oil will keep the rust monster away just like our firearms.

    The one thing I wanted to make mention of is caution when reloading for a semi-auto rifle, especially a battle rifle. Be very careful doing this. I do my reloading for my M14 on the single stage, just so I be sure and look at how the primers set. I'm sure even the AR's docs mention slamfires, just like my rifle's docs (and my Dad) did. Besides blowing up a $2K rifle, the shrapnel from the receiver is often devastating when a slamfire occurs. There's plenty of websites that discuss slamfires, so I'll leave it to everyone to do some research before reloading for them, or just buy your ammo.

    Have fun. Reloading is addicting. But be sharp and darn near OCD with the "go bang" stuff.
     
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    Greenfield
    I am overly cautious with "go bang" stuff and very maticulous. However, you will have to excuse my ignorance on this one, as I just don't know enough about it yet. What steps need to be taken to avoid the potential "slamfire"? I realize it is an issue with the seating of the primer....but what visual characteristics will be present that sends off that "something isn't right with this one" in your head?

    Thanks for the knowledge! Learning more about reloading every time!!
     

    mospeada

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    I am overly cautious with "go bang" stuff and very maticulous. However, you will have to excuse my ignorance on this one, as I just don't know enough about it yet. What steps need to be taken to avoid the potential "slamfire"? I realize it is an issue with the seating of the primer....but what visual characteristics will be present that sends off that "something isn't right with this one" in your head?

    Thanks for the knowledge! Learning more about reloading every time!!

    I've crushed many a primer while seating them, usually because they get turned sideways in the cup and by the time I feel something's wrong, they're crushed. I have never had a primer pop and I've done some pretty narly stuff to them; crushed them, had the handle slip out of my hand and slam the case onto the primer, got a piece of media under the primer in the cup and dented it while seating... you get the picture.

    Essentially, it is a pretty safe activity. Keep the cover on the powder, if there is a primer pop, you don't want to have an ember get into the hopper. When primers go, they usually just rocket into the ceiling if you have a progressive like the Dillon 550b. At least that's what I've read, like I said, its not happened to me.
     
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