Need help on what I need to reload

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • Michiana

    Master
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    May 3, 2008
    1,712
    36
    Granger
    I have the following Lee reloading equipment on order. I am just getting into reloading and need to know if this is all I need or do I need other equipment. What about primers, powder and bullets? Any recommendations what and where to buy? I am only interested in reloading 40S&W at this time but might want to reload 357mag later. Can I use the same equipment and just buy different accessories? What about cleaning the brass? Help will be appreciated.


    LEE PRO 1000
    Add a bullet and pull the lever; all other operations are automatic. One loaded cartridge with each pull of the lever. Every operation is automatic. Primers, like the powder, are fed only if a case is present. No wasted primers or spilled powder. Alternate loading sequence lets you load only one case at a time. Makes learning easy for the first time user and great for fine adjustments or experimenting.
    You can start reloading good ammunition minutes after the press is bolted down.
    * 32 S&W Long and 32 H&R Mag 90639 Serv.Parts 380 Auto 90641 Serv.Parts 38 Special (can use for 357 Magnum) 90636 Serv.Parts 38 Auto and 38 Super 90035 Serv.Parts357 Magnum 90637 Serv.Parts 9mm Luger 90640 Serv.Parts 40 S&W 90682 Serv.Parts 10mm Auto 90632 Serv.Parts 41 Magnum 90642 Serv.Parts 44 Special (can use for 44 Magnum) 90634 Serv.Parts 44 Magnum 90635 Serv.Parts 45 ACP 90638 Serv.Parts 45 Colt 90643 Serv.Parts 223 Remington
    Includes Rifle Charging Die. Not available in carbide.
    90633 Serv.Parts * Requires MicroDisk
    pro1000.jpg
    Lee Pro 1000
    COMPLETE READY TO RELOAD241.00
     

    42769vette

    Grandmaster
    Industry Partner
    Rating - 100%
    52   0   0
    Oct 6, 2008
    15,222
    113
    south of richmond in
    as far as cleaning brass i bought a tumber from midway it was on sale for 40$ or somthing like that and it works fine for me.

    you will need dies and a scale.

    you might want to cheak out The Firing Line they have forms that are specific to reloading
     

    colt45er

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Nov 6, 2008
    1,629
    36
    Avon, IN
    I am new to this myself but I will tell you what I have.

    I have that Lee press. It seems to work great for me, however a lot of people dislike the primer system.

    Either way, mount it to a sturdy surface and you should be good.

    This should come with the dies so you are good there. The powder measure disks will premeasure powder, however I bougth a scale just to be safe. I check my first several powder throws and then one in 20 or so.

    Get a bullet puller (around $15) because chances are you will screw up at least one.

    Get a reloading manual (or two or three) for reference.

    A digital caliper will be extremely helpful ($25)

    I do not have a tumbler, but I hear those are the way to go, I use a friends.

    As for bullets/powder/and primers there are a ton out ther!
     
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Dec 7, 2008
    2,118
    38
    Greenfield
    Below is a great thread on the basics and necessities, and what items are used mostly during reloading, with approximate prices. Alot of good threads on here for beginners, newcomers, and those getting back into reloading after a long break.

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...munition/26135-reloading_essentials_imho.html

    Michiana, that is one heck of a press you ordered and can get fairly complicated (from what I know). The multi-stage progressive presses can whip out a large quantity, but I usually only see very experienced reloaders use them. Also, even experienced folks have seemed to recommend single stage and handloading elements if accuracy is what you are trying to accomplish, although it doesn't sound like that is what you are "aiming for". (No Pun intended).

    Hope that helps!
     

    Michiana

    Master
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    May 3, 2008
    1,712
    36
    Granger
    Thanks

    Below is a great thread on the basics and necessities, and what items are used mostly during reloading, with approximate prices. Alot of good threads on here for beginners, newcomers, and those getting back into reloading after a long break.

    https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...munition/26135-reloading_essentials_imho.html

    Michiana, that is one heck of a press you ordered and can get fairly complicated (from what I know). The multi-stage progressive presses can whip out a large quantity, but I usually only see very experienced reloaders use them. Also, even experienced folks have seemed to recommend single stage and handloading elements if accuracy is what you are trying to accomplish, although it doesn't sound like that is what you are "aiming for". (No Pun intended).

    Hope that helps!

    My goal is to be able to reload for my three 40S&W handguns for target shooting, I am not looking to shoot at Camp Perry. I have approx. 1,200 rounds of factory ammo I would like to continue to reload to reduce my costs so I can shoot more. I chose this press at the recommendation of two people and realize it is not a beginner model but I am getting it at a good price. I figure I have several months before I will have to start reloading and by then I hope to have everything set up and have all my supplies in place. Any helpe will be appreciated.
     
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Dec 7, 2008
    2,118
    38
    Greenfield
    Understood completely. I most certainly wasn't trying to imply it wasn't the right choice, not my intentions at all. I was just relaying what other folks had told me, as I am new at the reloading process as well, and will hopefully be turning out .40 cal in the near future too, but not nearly as quickly as you will be.

    I thought the list of equipment in the link I referenced was good, and pointed me to some items that will most likely be necessary at some point, but I wouldn't have thought of until I needed them.

    Let me know how it goes, as I may want to upgrade my press or add another to my bench evenutally. Also, keep me updated on what you find works for you and what doesn't, and I will share with you the same. No sense in re-inventing the wheel, right?
     

    EvilElmo

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    8   0   0
    Feb 11, 2009
    1,235
    48
    Dearborn Co.
    Switching over to loading 357 will just require some components for the press - most notably you'll need 357 dies and a shell plate to hold the 357 cases. If you want to make it quicker to switch between calibers buy a 2nd turret plate and put the 357 dies in it. Then you just have to switch the turret and shell plate and adjust the case feeder (for the different height of the case). One other thing you may need is the large slider piece for the case feeder. The case feeder uses the large tubes but a small slider for 40, but you'll need the large slider to properly handle 357 cases. I don't know if it will come with both or not.

    I use the Loadmaster, which is the slightly-bigger brother to the 1000. Make sure to read the directions carefully as they may be different than the Loadmaster in this regard (but I doubt it). My manual states very specifically to use Winchester or CCI primers only. If the 1000's priming mechanism is the same as the Loadmaster then make sure you follow this rule to the letter. If I understand it correctly the reason is because Winchester and CCI apparently make their primers with thicker shells, for lack of a better term. Some people have reported primers getting turned sideways when inserted into the brass. With weaker shells the other primer brands have a tendency to object to being crushed, and they object very enthusiastically. Basically the explosion will probably trigger a chain reaction with the rest of the primers in the feeder. Lee even sells a specially made shield to protect you if you insist on using other primer brands.

    If you haven't found them already make sure you watch the setup videos and read the info at the following sites. It'll make a big difference in how easy it is to get the press up and running.

    Lee Precision, Inc. Reloading Tools and Equipment: Setup and Operation Help Videos
    loadmastervideos.com :: Index
     

    BE Mike

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Jul 23, 2008
    7,536
    113
    New Albany
    Reloading Setup Checklist
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Reloading manual
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Press
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Dies for each caliber (Dies included with Dillon Square Deal Only)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Shellholders or Caliber Conversion Kits as appropriate
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Powder Measure (included with Dillon presses)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Powder Trickler
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Scale, balance beam or electronic
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Case Tumbler
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Media for Tumbler
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Case Lube (not absolutely necessary if loading with carbide pistol dies)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Case Lube Pad
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Case Trimmer (Not necessary for straight walled pistol cases)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Case Deburring Tool (Only if getting Case Trimmer)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Vernier Caliper (Dial or Digital is easiest to use)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Loading Tray/ Loading Block (Only if using single stage press)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Primer Flipper
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Bullet Puller


    Dillon Extras
    Extra Tool Head (If loading more than one caliber)
    Toolhead Stand (If loading more than one caliber)
    Toolholder with Tools (nice to have, but absolutely not necessary)
    Strong Mount (Highly recommend, especially with Dillon 650)
    Dillon Video Tape (Worth the money)
    Extra casefeed plate (You will need more than one if loading other certain calibers)


    Reloading Components
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Bullets (Lead are cheapest)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Brass Cases (Buying new Winchester or Starline at first might prevent problems)
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Powder
    ·[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Primers
     

    colt45er

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Nov 6, 2008
    1,629
    36
    Avon, IN
    Since he has stated he already has the lee 1000 press...twice. Green is what you need, Red is what you do not need

    Reloading Setup Checklist


    ·Reloading manual
    ·Press
    ·Dies for each caliber (Dies included with Dillon Square Deal Only)
    ·Shellholders or Caliber Conversion Kits as appropriate
    ·Powder Measure (included with Dillon presses)
    ·Powder Trickler
    ·Scale, balance beam or electronic
    ·Case Tumbler
    ·Media for Tumbler
    ·Case Lube (not absolutely necessary if loading with carbide pistol dies)
    ·Case Lube Pad
    ·Case Trimmer (Not necessary for straight walled pistol cases)
    ·Case Deburring Tool (Only if getting Case Trimmer)
    ·Vernier Caliper (Dial or Digital is easiest to use)
    ·Loading Tray/ Loading Block (Only if using single stage press)
    ·Primer Flipper
    ·Bullet Puller


    Dillon Extras
    Extra Tool Head (If loading more than one caliber)
    Toolhead Stand (If loading more than one caliber)
    Toolholder with Tools (nice to have, but absolutely not necessary)
    Strong Mount (Highly recommend, especially with Dillon 650)
    Dillon Video Tape (Worth the money)
    Extra casefeed plate (You will need more than one if loading other certain calibers)


    Reloading Components
    ·Bullets (Lead are cheapest)
    ·Brass Cases (Buying new Winchester or Starline at first might prevent problems)
    ·Powder
    ·Primers
     

    mospeada

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Sep 5, 2008
    1,358
    74
    Bloomington
    Quite honestly, you can get going with just a scale and reloading manual (more than one ideally). Bullets, powder & primers are obviously needed.

    Now a caliper, bullet puller, case tumbler & media are very nice and I wouldn't do it without them, you don't need them.

    The Indy 1500 is a good place to pick up most of this stuff. If you can't make it to the 1500, powdervalleyinc.com or midwayusa.com are some online sources. I'm from the South part of Indiana so I don't know of many places up North besides Kempf's that sell reloading supplies.
     

    BE Mike

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Jul 23, 2008
    7,536
    113
    New Albany
    Since he has stated he already has the lee 1000 press...twice. Green is what you need, Red is what you do not need

    [/color]

    That is my standard checklist. One can choose what applies and discount what does not. Of course, I disagree with you on a couple of counts, colt45er. He absolutely needs dies for each caliber. A bullet puller is not an expensive item and will save a lot of &#$% when one loads some bad rounds and wants to salvage expensive components. I'm not familiar with the Lee 1000, but I would assume that he needs a caliber conversion kit of some sort when changing to the .357 Mag.

    Michiana,

    If you are shooting your 40 S&W in a polygonal rifled barrel with unsupported chamber, i.e. Glock, you should either load copper jacketed bullets or replace the barrel with an aftermarket one with standard rifling before shooting lead bullets.

    When changing over to the .357 Mag. make sure that you buy carbide dies. You don't have to lube pistol cases when using carbide dies. You can use the same small pistol primers if loading light or moderate loads in your .357 Mag. Of course you can reload and shoot .38 SPL in your .357 Mag. revolver, if that is what you have. Many manuals recommend small pistol magnum primers with certain loads.

    I have a Lortone, model QT-12, rotary tumbler that I have been using for over 25 years to clean and polish cases. It has been trouble free. You can view it here:Lortone, Manufacturers of Tools for Lapidary & Jewelry Artists

    Many folks these days use the vibratory tumblers. You can get them from Hornady, Lyman, RCBS, etc. Like most things, you get what you pay for. Get the biggest one for your budget. Although many people like them, I'm not a big fan of the cheapos like Midway sells. I like to stick with the "big name" products.

    For bullets, powder and primers, I like Powder Valley, Wideners, and Natchez. Of course with powder and primers, you must pay a Hazmat fee in addition to the shipping cost, so unless you need a lot of powder and primers, it is usually more cost effective to buy your powder and primers locally.

    Good luck and welcome to the growing family of reloaders. If I can help you in any way, just let me know. I don't know everything, but I've been reloading since 1972.
     

    Michiana

    Master
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    May 3, 2008
    1,712
    36
    Granger
    Thanks

    That is my standard checklist. One can choose what applies and discount what does not. Of course, I disagree with you on a couple of counts, colt45er. He absolutely needs dies for each caliber. A bullet puller is not an expensive item and will save a lot of &#$% when one loads some bad rounds and wants to salvage expensive components. I'm not familiar with the Lee 1000, but I would assume that he needs a caliber conversion kit of some sort when changing to the .357 Mag.

    Michiana,

    If you are shooting your 40 S&W in a polygonal rifled barrel with unsupported chamber, i.e. Glock, you should either load copper jacketed bullets or replace the barrel with an aftermarket one with standard rifling before shooting lead bullets.

    When changing over to the .357 Mag. make sure that you buy carbide dies. You don't have to lube pistol cases when using carbide dies. You can use the same small pistol primers if loading light or moderate loads in your .357 Mag. Of course you can reload and shoot .38 SPL in your .357 Mag. revolver, if that is what you have. Many manuals recommend small pistol magnum primers with certain loads.

    I have a Lortone, model QT-12, rotary tumbler that I have been using for over 25 years to clean and polish cases. It has been trouble free. You can view it here:Lortone, Manufacturers of Tools for Lapidary & Jewelry Artists

    Many folks these days use the vibratory tumblers. You can get them from Hornady, Lyman, RCBS, etc. Like most things, you get what you pay for. Get the biggest one for your budget. Although many people like them, I'm not a big fan of the cheapos like Midway sells. I like to stick with the "big name" products.

    For bullets, powder and primers, I like Powder Valley, Wideners, and Natchez. Of course with powder and primers, you must pay a Hazmat fee in addition to the shipping cost, so unless you need a lot of powder and primers, it is usually more cost effective to buy your powder and primers locally.

    Good luck and welcome to the growing family of reloaders. If I can help you in any way, just let me know. I don't know everything, but I've been reloading since 1972.


    Right now I have a Steyr M-A1, a Walthers P99C and a Kahr Arms MK-40 I will be shooting. I will probably stick with just reloading 40 for a year as I do not shoot that much .357, 38 special or 45acp anymore. I am working on limiting my shooting to ,22LR and 40S&W to keep it simple. I used to help my uncle reload when I was a teenager but that was many moons ago and thing have really improved in the reloading dept. I want to buy the minumum I can get away with to start and the list you guys came up with will be a big help. I can save a little $$ being a dealer but not as much as I thought I would. Most of this stuff is already discounted.

    Dick
     

    colt45er

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Nov 6, 2008
    1,629
    36
    Avon, IN
    That is my standard checklist. One can choose what applies and discount what does not. Of course, I disagree with you on a couple of counts, colt45er. He absolutely needs dies for each caliber. A bullet puller is not an expensive item and will save a lot of &#$% when one loads some bad rounds and wants to salvage expensive components. I'm not familiar with the Lee 1000, but I would assume that he needs a caliber conversion kit of some sort when changing to the .357 Mag.

    Michiana,

    If you are shooting your 40 S&W in a polygonal rifled barrel with unsupported chamber, i.e. Glock, you should either load copper jacketed bullets or replace the barrel with an aftermarket one with standard rifling before shooting lead bullets.

    When changing over to the .357 Mag. make sure that you buy carbide dies. You don't have to lube pistol cases when using carbide dies. You can use the same small pistol primers if loading light or moderate loads in your .357 Mag. Of course you can reload and shoot .38 SPL in your .357 Mag. revolver, if that is what you have. Many manuals recommend small pistol magnum primers with certain loads.

    I have a Lortone, model QT-12, rotary tumbler that I have been using for over 25 years to clean and polish cases. It has been trouble free. You can view it here:Lortone, Manufacturers of Tools for Lapidary & Jewelry Artists

    Many folks these days use the vibratory tumblers. You can get them from Hornady, Lyman, RCBS, etc. Like most things, you get what you pay for. Get the biggest one for your budget. Although many people like them, I'm not a big fan of the cheapos like Midway sells. I like to stick with the "big name" products.

    For bullets, powder and primers, I like Powder Valley, Wideners, and Natchez. Of course with powder and primers, you must pay a Hazmat fee in addition to the shipping cost, so unless you need a lot of powder and primers, it is usually more cost effective to buy your powder and primers locally.

    Good luck and welcome to the growing family of reloaders. If I can help you in any way, just let me know. I don't know everything, but I've been reloading since 1972.

    I am just going off of the info given, he said he was just looking at doing .40 to start with, you can presume from this that he is not interested in the other dies. With the Lee1000, it comes caliber specefic, so he will not need to purchase any dies.

    Also, I had put the bullet puller in green meaning he should get one.
     

    BE Mike

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    18   0   0
    Jul 23, 2008
    7,536
    113
    New Albany
    Michiana,

    .40 S&W is a cartridge that can be pretty unforgiving because it produces high pressures. When setting up your dies, make sure that you have the bullet seated to the correct depth and have a hefty crimp on it. If you seat it too deeply the pressures can rise quickly and cause a failure. If you don't crimp the bullets well, the bullet can be jammed back into the case upon feeding and result in very high pressures and a resulting failure. Just take your time and set everything up right and load just a few rounds at first. Use conservative powder charges given in the manuals.

    It looks like all the .40 S&W pistols you are shooting have standard rifling. If so, I'd suggest that you reload using lead bullets. That will definitely cut your costs.
     

    Dr Falken

    Expert
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Nov 28, 2008
    1,055
    36
    Bloomington
    I had the Lee Pro 1000. I would recommend the Lee Double Disc Charger. Lets you use two charging discs, greatly expands your load capabilities. I have thought about getting the adjustable charging bar too. Lee occasionally has factory seconds on some parts, like the 3 hole turret. Check with them if you need to get an extra one, runs like $7 or 8.00. Other stuff from Lee can be pricey, so check Midway or Natchez shooters supply. A place I have gotten cast bullets from is SnS Casting in Illinois (now that I think on it, don't remember if they have .40) but good prices. Good luck with that press, make sure you set it up so it's easy to watch the primer feed, that was a spot that caused me a lot of problems. I ended up with the Lee Turret Press.
     

    Leadeye

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 19, 2009
    36,699
    113
    .
    Not familiar with the Lee progressive , but I do use Lee dies. The factory crimp die comes in handy for getting sure function out of autos and straightening up mistakes with straight wall cases like the 357.:)
     
    Top Bottom