help - nickel plated brass considerations??

[throttletony]

I am getting ready to officially get my own reloading gear. Have a manual, and a bunch of gathered (uncleaned though.... grumble, grumble) brass.
Are there ANY extra considerations to prepping and reloading the nickel plated brass cases? Can it go through all the same processes as plain brass? Does it last longer/shorter/same?

THIS IS FOR .38 spl, .357, and 9mm if that matters --- not for rifle cases

Thanks in advance

 

[billybob44]

Can it go through all the same processes as plain brass?

Yes same process with Nickle brass as 'Yellow' brass.

Some will say that the Nickle will get "Splits" before the yellow??

If you do not heavy crimp, either will load many times..Bill

 

[shibumiseeker]

Nickel will give approximately 10% fewer loadings for pistol brass but other than that, load away happily.

 

[red_zr24x4]

I had read somewhere that they nickel coat brass because it has a cosmetic defect... don't know if its true or not....I'll see if I can find it again.

 

[bwframe]

In .45ACP they split quicker and seem softer. Once in a while they sneak into the regular loading, but I try to save them back to leave where I won't be getting my brass back.

 

[noylj]

Nickel plating can, and will, flake off. It will then embed in the carbide ring and put "racing stripes" on all case that follow until you notice and clean out the die. Unless you plan to carry cartridges on an exposed belt, there is no reason to have nickel case, other then you think they are prettier.
Then, they tend to split about twice as often as brass cases--particularly in .38 Spl and .357 Mag. I don't know why those cartridge cases seem to split so easily, but that is what I find.
Loading is the same, just watch the cases for new striations and cracks at the case mouth and along the body.

 

[Dolton916]

I was told that the nickel plated brass is thinner to accommodate the plating, as thin as it may be, and that causes the cartridge to be weaker.

 

[Mosineer]

As above stated, no different considerations. I have read numerous places that they will split after fewer reloads. I have not personally experienced this. I have quite a few nickel 38 spl cases that were given to me. I load them with shot shell capsules and they are normally tight enough fit that I do not need to crimp. As was stated above the crimping will eventually cause the split of the case. Do not know if it is thinner or the nickel plate or both. Just happens to be the case with the case Good luck with your loading!!

 

[shibumiseeker]

As above stated, no different considerations. I have read numerous places that they will split after fewer reloads.

I do a lot of brass life tests, some of which I post here, and a few years ago another poster asked me to test the life difference between nickel plated and regular from the same manufacturer. My results jibed with my overall experience from other tests in different calibers.

https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...ing/87628-new-40s-w-brass-test-10-pieces.html

 

[Disposable Heart]

Another thing to take into consideration is that more often than not: Nickle brass is used for defensive ammunition, which is loaded hotter traditionally and sometimes even +P. That initial work hardening from hotter ammo can cause premature failure in nickle brass.

Also, look up the process to nickle plate anything. Involved alot of chemicals, some of which can weaken brass a touch. The brass is still safe, however, it's weaker in it's extremities (thin points at the neck) compared to regular stamped brass.

 

[x10]

Nickel will give approximately 10% fewer loadings for pistol brass but other than that, load away happily.

(in no way diss'n you just wonder where this "data" comes from)

where does that come from?

I use my nickel brass for a load division.

My 45 acp Smith 25 revolver shoots a different load well than my auto's so I load all my nickel brass in my revolver load and the rest in Auto loads. I've been using the nickled brass for a long time and I shoot alot. I've got most of my brass wore down to the brass and it's getting hard to tell some of my revolver loads from my auto loads. I don't know how many loadings it takes for dillon dies to rub the nickel off but if they are short 10% of life I'm here to tell you it's 10% that don't matter.

Your good to go!

 

[red_zr24x4]

My brother has some. 38's that the nickel is about gone also

 

[shibumiseeker]

(in no way diss'n you just wonder where this "data" comes from)

where does that come from?

Brass life tests I personally have conducted like the one I posted upthread. I've done four such tests now with nickel plated brass versus plain brass from the same manufacturer and the range has been from half the number of loadings to about 5% fewer. But it's been consistently less. I have not yet had any nickel plated outlast the plain brass in any of my tests, so not even the outliers last longer. In fact, as you can see from the one test I posted in this thread, the curve plot has the mean of the plain brass right near the highest number of loadings piece for the nickel plated brass.

The closest I have had nickel plated brass come to the same number of loadings as plain brass has been in revolver rounds, semiautos tend to see a much larger difference.

 

[Leo]

People may like or dislike nickle plated brass for various reasons, but I have never made any different habits with them. If you have some you don't like, I'll be glad to use it until it is used up.

The reason Police departments used to specify nickle plated for supplier bids (even when buying standard loadings) is that brass cased ammo would turn green so quickly in the leather belts and pouches of a duty rig. This was even more so in cities where many beat cops were on foot patrol, or traffic control duty.


When I shot bullseye pistol leagues, I kept all the brass together in the same box until I threw it away. My gently loaded/minimally crimped nickle .38spl wadcutter ammo would start splitting out at about 15 reloadings and by 18 was pretty much all used up. The brass cases did last a little longer, but not much. Buy the time you have reloaded the brass 15 times, you got your money out of it. Back then you could get once fired .38's for 2 or 3 cents each.

 

[x10]

OK see the test now, looks like a lot of discussion. I don't know that I would avoid nickled brass and I fyou had a purpose like mine it might be desirable, I've got 30 year old 38 brass that the nickel is almost gone, I would think there are enough factors that I wouldn't want to begin to do a statistical analysis

I know 223 brass from run of the mill AR's I let hit the ground after 1 reloading but out of my match guns keep it around and do inspections. So plenty of factors, And no matter what it's a consumable

 

[shibumiseeker]

OK see the test now, looks like a lot of discussion. I don't know that I would avoid nickled brass and I fyou had a purpose like mine it might be desirable, I've got 30 year old 38 brass that the nickel is almost gone, I would think there are enough factors that I wouldn't want to begin to do a statistical analysis

My point wasn't to avoid nickel plated brass, just that it has a shorter life. I'm perfectly happy picking it up and loading it. But whenever "everyone" says X, I like to have some empirical data to prove or disprove it, which is why I conduct the brass life tests. As you note, there are a ton of variables which makes statistical analysis a nightmare, but in this case I feel pretty comfortable backing up my claim because as of yet I've not seen it disproved.

 

[Whip_McCord]

I have noticed nickle plated cases split sooner than brass. I have a bunch of nickle. I use it for one specific load for one of my revolvers. I have a different load with the same bullet for two other revolvers. That way I can tell which load it is by the case.

 

[Steve B]

My brother has some. 38's that the nickel is about gone also

Me too. Some are so worn off it's hard to tell if they were nickle until the light hits them just right. Those get loaded with the regular brass. The ones that aren't worn I use for SD loads.

 

[mssmith44]

I have been using a mix of nickle and brass for a long time in 38 special and 38 super.
There is a difference in the 38 special nickle cases that are marked +P.
They cannot be loaded with a flush seated wadcutter.
Typically you don't see plain brass cases marked +P but there are some.
The plain brass cases that are military can't be loade with wadcutters either.
I think that nickle cases load a little faster, slicker than brass in a speed reload.
Then again nickle cases seem to be easier to find on the ground when playing the brass monkey retrieving cases.
And I like nickle for 357 just to make them easier to sort from 38 special.
I think there is more to it than just brass vs nickle.
S&B cases in 38 special are not reusable due to the primer opening being too small.

 

[sloughfoot]

I have read, on the internet, that nickle plated brass does not get shinier the longer you polish it. What's up with that?