Reloading from the ground up

[mammynun]

I've been researching, saving brass, and generally plotting for years. With the imminent departure of another kid I'll have a room available to dedicate to reloading, so it's time to get serious.

Nutshell: I want to reload 5.56 and pistol calibers for "low cost" volume shooting and .308 for precision. I'm looking for manuals and and powder recommendations.

Calibers in order of volume reloaded (per month): 5.56x45/.223 (500), .308 Win (300), 9mm (300), .45ACP(200), .40 S&W(100). My plan is to get my feet wet with 9mm, then try 5.56 and move to .308 when I have some experience. These estimates may (will?) go up once I get started.

Probable press: Dillon RL 550B with appropriate accessories as suggested by Brian Enos (I'll initially buy for 5.56, .308, and 9mm). After considering the choice of a press for years, I'm pretty set on a Dillon... but I'll listen to reasons I should consider another brand/model.

Before I buy any of this stuff, I want to buy a few books/manuals on the subject... and that's where I need some help. I'm satisfied with the accuracy of factory ammo for 5.56/.223 and pistol calibers, but I want to be able to load .308 at FGMM 175gr consistency or, hopefully, better. This leads me to believe that I should buy a manual(s) that address .308 in the bullet/powder combination(s) that are generally accepted as "very good." I realize that different barrels will have preferences, but my 20" 11.25 twist 5R Savage and 18" Lilja 1:11 barreled AR definitely prefer FGMM over the other commonly available "match" ammo I've tested. So, is there an consensus as to the "best" reloading manual that addresses this?

Since I don't know what I don't know and I'm satisfied with factory pistol ammo, is there a generally accepted powder that's appropriate for semi auto 9mm, 40s&w, and .45ACP? What about 5.56/.223 using 68-77gr bullets out of 10.5"-12" SBR's with 1:8 barrels? Since I have your attention I'll ask another newb question that I'm sure is answered in every reloading manual: Can I safely load .223 and 5.56 NATO brass with the "same" load for general plinking purposes, or do I need to separate them?

 

[Leo]

I agree with your 550b Dillon as the workhorse press, especially for multiple calibers. . For precision rifle, I prefer a good single stage. The Redding Boss is my favorite, but certainly an RCBS, the big Lyman or the single stage Hornady is up to the task.

Your projected pistol ammo use is pretty small for a press that easily loads 400+ per hour taking your time. Get plenty of brass a bullets so you can load at least 500 at a time. I always kept a pillowcase over mine to keep the dust off. I would never pull the pillow case off for less than 1000.

Most of precision rifle is a top shelf bullet loaded into a carefully sorted and prepped brass. The best exact spec is what your barrel shoots best. There are online tips that benchrest guys use. Start with Sierra MatchKIngs or Nosler Custom Competition. Burger VLD bullets can do very well, but they have a delicate jacket that is very sensitive to bullet jump measurements.

.223 and .556 head stamps label bullet and powder, not brass. The brass is the same. I never shot rifle ammo out of pistol length barrels, but 8 twist definately works for 75/77 grain bullets.

 

[OutdoorDad]

I have been assembling my own ammunition for a short while. So I'm by no means an expert.

But some of the best advice I received when I was first thinking about it was to start on a single stage.
There is only one thing going on at any time. And you control all aspects of what is happening. Slow? You betcha'. Slow is frequently good when learning a new skill.

I started with an RCBS rockchucker supreme package.

After making a couple of thousand rounds of ammunition, I'm considering something a little quicker. (notice I didn't say "better"- because when you are putting together your .308 for maximum accuracy, you'll probably use a single stage.)

The press you mention is very well regarded. I might wind up in that place as well.

re: powder... a lot depends on what you can find locally. There are powders that span all three pistol loadings you mention. And powders that can be used for both .223 and .308. So you could get away with only having two types of powder on your bench if you wanted to.

You'll have to identify whats available at your local store, and then see if it meets your needs. At least that's what I've done.

Its a lot of fun. You will enjoy it!

 

[mac45]

You have the right idea. Get 2-3 manuals first......and read them.
Pretty much all of 'em have good how to sections. Since you have a goal of loading precision rifle rounds, I'd suggest the Berger manual. Lot of good stuff in there.
Also like the Sierra manual.
Have to say I don't care much for the Lee manual. The how to section is fine, (actually very good if you have a lot of Lee equipment), I just dislike their data section.

The 550 is a great press. I have one and love it. That said, I load rifle on a turret press. Only because I don't like to fool with lubed cases on the Dillon. That's just me. YMMV

Powders? Yes.....there are powders that do double or triple duty in handguns. Likewise with rifles.
Will they give the best results in every gun? Probably not. But you won't know what works for you till you try it.

And don't plan on actually saving any money.
Oh, don't get me wrong, you'll be spending less per shot, but all the loaders I know just end up shooting more.
But I wouldn't call that a bad thing.

 

[mammynun]

Thanks for all the replies, it's more food for thought.

Maybe the best course of action is to get a single stage (or turret) and work on .308? That would allow me to learn how to develop a load that my rifle likes which would transfer to other calibers? I was looking at it from the other direction... initially getting a 550 would allow me to focus on the "mechanics" of reloading "plinking" ammo without obsessing about case volume and weight, or the exact number of flakes of powder in a precision load. Am I looking at it backwards, or does it make a difference? I always figured I'd end up with an additional (single stage?) press that was geared more towards precision at some point, so maybe I should start there...

As for as manuals go, where's a good place to order them from? Is there a significant difference between versions as long as they're relatively new?

 

[Sirshredalot]

I learned on a progressive press and it probably was not the best means of learning.
I too have a 550 and wouldn't trade it for any other press, but it is bolted three feet from an rcbs rockchucker.

You will use both presses, get both presses, but go slow, go slow, go slow, and learn on a single stage....did I mention go slow To start?

It isnt the mechanics of the press that makes rookie mistakes, but the urge to make ammo fast just to go shoot.
Reloading has become as much if not more of a hobby than shooting to me and thus I prefer to do both at a slow pace as to savor the experience.

Get a few manuals (hornady, nosler, lyman) and read them...all. the information in the lee is good stuff but the load data can get sketchy.
Get a single powder and a single bullet for each caliber to start to keep things simple.
take your time you'll be just fine if you aren't "in a big damn hurrry" for blasting ammo.

God bless
-shred

 

[mammynun]

I'm in no hurry to make ammo; hell, I've been buying it for decades! Plus, I have a decent amount of factory ammo to go through...

 

[mac45]

Agree with Shred about going slow to start.
There IS a learning curve to reloading, and bad things can happen if you don't understand what you're doing.

However.....I don't think it mandatory that everyone start on a single stage.
Now if you want one, or you think that it would be easier for YOU to learn on one.......by all means get one.
A lot of guys start out with one, like it, and never get another press....and that's fine.
But there's nothing wrong with starting out on the 550 if that's what you want.

 

[Leo]

Reloading in general, especially precision reloading looks pretty complicated. Once you take the process apart, reloading is not that tricky. It is just a series of simple proceedures that need to be done correctly. If any step in case prep is not successfull, throw away the case and do not carry the problem forward, same with priming, same with powder charges, same with bullet seating. The beauty of it is, that you can pretty much start or stop to correct or learn something new at any time. It is not like a chemical process where if you make a mistake or get confused, the solution goes unstable and blows up or turns solid.

 

[craigkim]

I've been researching, saving brass, and generally plotting for years. With the imminent departure of another kid I'll have a room available to dedicate to reloading, so it's time to get serious.

Nutshell: I want to reload 5.56 and pistol calibers for "low cost" volume shooting and .308 for precision. I'm looking for manuals and and powder recommendations.

Calibers in order of volume reloaded (per month): 5.56x45/.223 (500), .308 Win (300), 9mm (300), .45ACP(200), .40 S&W(100). My plan is to get my feet wet with 9mm, then try 5.56 and move to .308 when I have some experience. These estimates may (will?) go up once I get started.

Probable press: Dillon RL 550B with appropriate accessories as suggested by Brian Enos (I'll initially buy for 5.56, .308, and 9mm). After considering the choice of a press for years, I'm pretty set on a Dillon... but I'll listen to reasons I should consider another brand/model.

Before I buy any of this stuff, I want to buy a few books/manuals on the subject... and that's where I need some help. I'm satisfied with the accuracy of factory ammo for 5.56/.223 and pistol calibers, but I want to be able to load .308 at FGMM 175gr consistency or, hopefully, better. This leads me to believe that I should buy a manual(s) that address .308 in the bullet/powder combination(s) that are generally accepted as "very good." I realize that different barrels will have preferences, but my 20" 11.25 twist 5R Savage and 18" Lilja 1:11 barreled AR definitely prefer FGMM over the other commonly available "match" ammo I've tested. So, is there an consensus as to the "best" reloading manual that addresses this?

Since I don't know what I don't know and I'm satisfied with factory pistol ammo, is there a generally accepted powder that's appropriate for semi auto 9mm, 40s&w, and .45ACP? What about 5.56/.223 using 68-77gr bullets out of 10.5"-12" SBR's with 1:8 barrels? Since I have your attention I'll ask another newb question that I'm sure is answered in every reloading manual: Can I safely load .223 and 5.56 NATO brass with the "same" load for general plinking purposes, or do I need to separate them?

I am in a similar circumstance and I didn't see that anyone recommended literature for you. I bought the Lyman 49th edition reloading manual, as I saw it highly regarded on several postings by others. It gave me some info, but left me kinda confused too. It seemed inclusive, but didn't necessarily take me from where I am to being comfortable in reloading. It had too much ballistics information and extra material for my use. I would also appreciate it if anyone else has a better recommendation.

I have been saving my brass for a while. I just want to reload 45 ACP at first, followed maybe by 9mm. I was told that you won't likely reload cheaper, unless you load cast lead, but you'll end up with higher quality, cleaner ammunition. I got lost somewhere in press selection and put the project on the back burner after I ordered another case of ammo.