I've been working on collecting brass and getting my bench ready to go, and I'm to the point where I'm ready to start actually loading, minus buying the actual projectiles and the powder. I've gotten the Lee Classic turret mount starter kit with the auto-drum loader, and I plan on breaking myself in with 9mm brass. I've got a few hundred (700-ish) brass that's wet tumbled, deprimed and ready to go. I've been looking through the reloading manual that came with my kit, as well as a lot of the "recipes" posted here, and I'm just struggling on what powder to start with (and therefore what projectile to get). I'm looking to just start with some 115gr-ish 9mm for target shooting and plinking, so nothing high end. I've turned to the forums for advice on many things before, and figure this is no different. I certainly would prefer to buy local (actually want to start pressing this weekend), so keep that in mind if you would. I'm on the North East side of Indy, so I'm figuring Cabela's is probably going to be my go-to unless someone points me in a different direction. Thoughts/recommendations...
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Choosing the right powder to start with
- Thread starter Kaneda13
- Start date
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I wouldn't use Cabelas. I would check out Indiana Gun Club just North of Geist. Last I knew, they only carried Hodgdon products, but I bought CFE Pistol there. They don't have it out in a case, you have to ask them to go look. You can get load data for CFE pistol and 115 projectiles on Hodgdon's web site. CFE Pistol seems pretty versatile and I have loaded it in several iterations of 9 and 45 successfully.
Indiana gun club is a good source for powder, so is Bobcat armament in Shelbyville.
I'd be looking for hp38 or win231 (same powder in different cans).
Tite group works, and its cheap, but it's such a small difference between min and max charge, that I steer new reloaders away for that very reason.
Cabelas may not be the best place for powder, but they have it. Primers are cheaper there too, compared to igc.
I'd be looking for hp38 or win231 (same powder in different cans).
Tite group works, and its cheap, but it's such a small difference between min and max charge, that I steer new reloaders away for that very reason.
Cabelas may not be the best place for powder, but they have it. Primers are cheaper there too, compared to igc.
I started with alb of HS6 because I was told you can't double charge it due to it's volume. After that I started with titegroup and have loaded several thousand with it. I wouldn't hesitate to start with it at all. Just take your time and move slowly. I use it for both 115 and 147 grain projectiles in 9mm.
I use more Titegroup than any other pistol powder with 124 bullets and the only powder I like better is vv N320, but I didn't mention it because of the potential to double charge with it. I started reloading with Titegroup, but I wasn't too worried about it because you would have to be doing some pretty crazy stuff to double charge on a Dillon 650. Anyhow, if you are careful Titegroup works well.
I also use Titegroup for all of my pistol loads. It's accurate, decently clean, and you get a lot of rounds out of a pound of powder. If I were to stray from Titegroup I'd go HS-6. Seeing as you are on a turret press, I honestly don't see how you can double charge. On a progressive, the possibility is there, but paying attention is all you really have to do. I started with Titegroup about 6 years ago and have used it ever since.
I make the drive to Cabela's quite often for powder and primers. Primers are usually cheaper there than anywhere else and powder is usually right around the same if not a couple bucks cheaper. While I would much rather buy from a local gun shop, the point of reloading pistol rounds is to save money. If they can't match the price then I don't buy from them.
I make the drive to Cabela's quite often for powder and primers. Primers are usually cheaper there than anywhere else and powder is usually right around the same if not a couple bucks cheaper. While I would much rather buy from a local gun shop, the point of reloading pistol rounds is to save money. If they can't match the price then I don't buy from them.
Think I am also going to be bringing more to Cabelas. Prices are way better than I been paying at shows.
I just started using Titegroup and am sold on it for 9mm. Would like to try it in 45 once my last pound of 231 gets burned. Think Cabelas had it for 18 per lb. That's some cheap shooting with my free brass, free primers, and plated pills.
HecK if I use my points all I have invested is time?
I just started using Titegroup and am sold on it for 9mm. Would like to try it in 45 once my last pound of 231 gets burned. Think Cabelas had it for 18 per lb. That's some cheap shooting with my free brass, free primers, and plated pills.
HecK if I use my points all I have invested is time?
HS-6, HP-38/W231 (same powder), Titegroup, CFE, 700-X, Unique, and AA#5 are just a few of the powders suitable for 9mm, but there are a dozen or so others that would also suit your purposes.
With 115 grain bullets in that caliber, you're best off with medium fast burn rate powders.
With 115 grain bullets in that caliber, you're best off with medium fast burn rate powders.
I've used HS-6, HP-38, Titegroup, and Power Pistol with good results. I usually opt for Power Pistol only because it requires more powder and I can see the volume in the case much easier when I'm loading. Titegroup does work well but I can't see how much is in the case without raising my stool or lowering my press. Power Pistol tends to give a lot of muzzle flash with shorter barrels like my Sig 938 but it isn't noticeable in full size barrels. In your situation, I would probably go with the powder I could most likely find on the shelf when I ran out. When I run out of Power Pistol I will probably get a taller stool and switch to a powder that is easier to find. I live near McCordsville so Cabela's and Indy Gun Club are easy to get to for me. I am in the Cabela's area more often so I tend to buy more from them but a trip to the Indy Gun Club is well worth the visit to see their inventory if nothing else.
Never just accept recommendations without full explanation.
For 9x19, the following has been true for me:
accuracy--slower powders are more accurate in my guns. Power Pistol has been best over bullet weight and charge weights.
TiteGroup, along with Clays and N310, appear to produce pressure spikes. No other fast powder I have tried has done this. I would not work any of those three powders above mid-range.
TiteGroup burns very hot--not a problem by itself
TiteGroup tends to have a very narrow charge range from start to max, so weight accuracy is more critical.
YMMV, but that is what I have found.
For 9x19, the following has been true for me:
accuracy--slower powders are more accurate in my guns. Power Pistol has been best over bullet weight and charge weights.
TiteGroup, along with Clays and N310, appear to produce pressure spikes. No other fast powder I have tried has done this. I would not work any of those three powders above mid-range.
TiteGroup burns very hot--not a problem by itself
TiteGroup tends to have a very narrow charge range from start to max, so weight accuracy is more critical.
YMMV, but that is what I have found.
If you also plan to you load some 40 S&W later, Power Pistol is a good choice. I've always preferred 124gr bullet in 9mm. I am loading for four different guns and found a good load that works in all of them using Power Pistol and 124gr Hornady bullets.
So I made my first 50 last night. Probably more than I should have before shooting any of them, but even if it's a total loss, I can chalk it up to a "learning curve". I used Hornady XTP 115gr bullets, 4.0gr Titegroup (4.2 per the bottle), and my OAL is 1.085 to 1.1 inches (1.09 inches per Hornady Manual 9th Edition). Hopefully these work out well and I keep keep going. I have 2 that seated a little short for some reason, at 1.075, so I'm not sure about shooting those 2, although the earlier version of the manual actually list this as spec.
Just as a suggestion, you can easily resolve the seating depth issue by using a kinetic bullet puller with a few medium hard raps instead of ejecting the bullets altogether.
Just hit it once or twice that way, then measure with your calipers until it's either at your target length or slightly over your target length, then put it back in your seating die to put it to your target length.
If you don't already have a kinetic puller, you'll eventually need one anyway for mistakes or issues in the future.
AmmoManAaron
Master
^^^100% this^^^
Hint taken, I'll make sure I pick on up this weekend. Trying to find a place I can shoot the loads I did. Found out I can't shoot hand-loads at the indoor range I normally go to. Anyone recommend a pistol range on the NE side of Indy, prefer outdoors.
