.223 from 5.56 cases ?

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  • jhart

    Plinker
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    Mar 17, 2010
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    greenwood
    Question. I had a friend give me about 400 cases originaly loaded as 5.56. My question is is there anything special I need to do, to the cases to load as .223 since that is the only dies I have. Or just do the normal clean, size, debur prime.
     

    jhart

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    Mar 17, 2010
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    greenwood
    I should have been a little clearer. When I size I run everything on the lyman trimmer and the lyman case prep. All at the same time. But thanks for pointing that out.
     

    jhart

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    greenwood
    Thanks for info guys. I thought that was it but figured I would double check just in case I was missing something. Tks again.
     

    INGarand

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    Jul 1, 2014
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    Buffaloville
    For sure check the primer pockets for crimp. Also depending on the type of cases you might experience problems with neck splits. I have had problems with military lake city brass. Can be solved with annealing. Other than that good for reloading.
     

    Sling10mm

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    Mar 12, 2012
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    Don't 5.56mm cases have a thicker web, and thus a smaller case volume? Why not just load them to 5.56x45 data?
     

    Sling10mm

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    True. I guess starting with a low 223 load and working up would be the prudent thing to do, assuming it is a 223 Rem chambered gun. Just might reach max load with the smaller case volume before the getting to the max published data load.
     

    jhart

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    Mar 17, 2010
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    greenwood
    the reason for loading as .223 instead of 5.56 is even more simple than the pressure thing. I only have .223 dies lol and most of my cases were origanally .223 so never bought any 5.56 dies. My rifle can handle both. The main thing I was concered about was the neck angle. I know there is difference between 5.56 and .223 on the angle and wasn't sure if my .223 die would take the 5.56 angle to the correct angle. I was under the assumption that you could make 5.56 case to .223 but not able to go the other way.
     

    Clay Pigeon

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    Aug 3, 2016
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    Summitville
    the reason for loading as .223 instead of 5.56 is even more simple than the pressure thing. I only have .223 dies lol and most of my cases were origanally .223 so never bought any 5.56 dies. My rifle can handle both. The main thing I was concered about was the neck angle. I know there is difference between 5.56 and .223 on the angle and wasn't sure if my .223 die would take the 5.56 angle to the correct angle. I was under the assumption that you could make 5.56 case to .223 but not able to go the other way.

    Load away and you will be fine, 223 / 5.56 dies are the same.
    I don't think I have ever seen any reloading dies that were marked just 5.56.
     

    billybob44

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    Sep 22, 2010
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    In the Man Cave
    Check again....

    I will load some up with 5.56 specs this weekend and give it a shot

    Be aware that as noted upthread that the 5.56 X 45 FACTORY LOAD is a higher pressure round than the .223 Remington FACTORY LOAD...

    You would be wise to start your loads, in your 5.56 X 45 cases with the .223 Remington specs..

    FWIW: 5.56 NATO rounds usually use more of a given powder, for a given bullet weight than .223 Remington rounds do, thus have a higher pressure curve....Bill.


    PS: Reloading is fun + easy, but it DOES require attention to DETAIL....
     
    Last edited:

    mac45

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    Feb 17, 2008
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    The OP said his rifle can use either.
    But yes...."Start with the starting load" is always good advice
     

    jhart

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    Mar 17, 2010
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    greenwood
    The powder I'm using is recommended starting charge of 23.3 for 223 and 24.1 for 556. 223 max is 25.1 and 556 is 26.3. So I thought I would load up 5 shots of these loads and see what I get.
    24.1 x 5
    24.3 x 5
    24.5 x 5
    24.7 x 5
    24.9 x 5
    25.1 x 5
    Basically I was gonna start with 556 start load and stop my high at the 223 max load. Since my loads with .223 starting grains have been good but a little inconstant on the groups. Haven't measured them but roughly 3-4 moa eyeballing with the starting .223 load.
     

    coltfan

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    Oct 22, 2012
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    No difference other than primer pocket prep. Ive found that much Lake City brass is difficult to seat primers. Be diligent about cleaning, swaging chamfering pockets. Also recommend a Hart Primer Pocket tool. Adjust tool to assure primer pocket will allow at least .003 seat below flush. Insurance against slam fires with non military grade primers.
     

    billybob44

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    No difference other than primer pocket prep. Ive found that much Lake City brass is difficult to seat primers. Be diligent about cleaning, swaging chamfering pockets. Also recommend a Hart Primer Pocket tool. Adjust tool to assure primer pocket will allow at least .003 seat below flush. Insurance against slam fires with non military grade primers.

    GREAT beginning post...I would welcome you to INGO, but it looks like you have been here for awhile...Bill.
     

    jhart

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    Mar 17, 2010
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    greenwood
    No difference other than primer pocket prep. Ive found that much Lake City brass is difficult to seat primers. Be diligent about cleaning, swaging chamfering pockets. Also recommend a Hart Primer Pocket tool. Adjust tool to assure primer pocket will allow at least .003 seat below flush. Insurance against slam fires with non military grade primers.

    thanks for that info. I currently use the lyman prep station which has a swaging/chamfer bit and a pocket uni-former. I have finally got all my brass ran thru the swaging bit so for now I should be good have 1500 cases shorted by head stamp and all swaged and uniformed. Some will be loaded as base line 55 grain .223 for others from work who brought me there brass and asked me to make them some rounds.
     
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