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  1. #1
    Plinker harleymac1's Avatar

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    Proper Reloading of Coated Bullets

    I used up all of my copper jacketed bullets and will now start loading Blue Bullets. They state that you need to flare the mouth enough that the coating is not scraped during seating. They further state that after crimping you should pull a bullet and check the coating and at the most you should see a slight indention. My question for you all is how much flare is too much and what is your diameter after crimping at the top of the case? I am loading 9mm. Thanks in advance for any advice you all can provide.


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    WTS: 1999 HD Softail Custom (Way below Blue Book)

  2. #2
    Master straight-shooter's Avatar

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    Just flare enough so that when you seat a bullet there is no powder coat pushed above the brass and you should be good. Just crimp enough that the case is straight or .001 less. I've never had 9mm require much of a crimp.
    'I dont know what a gun free zone is. Ive never been to one. As soon as I arrive, it ceases to be one' - Ted Nugent

  3. #3
    Marksman

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    [QUOTE=straight-shooter;8105158]Just flare enough so that when you seat a bullet there is no powder coat pushed above the brass and you should be good. Just crimp enough that the case is straight or .001 less. I've never had 9mm require much of a crimp.[/QUOT

    ^^^^ I do have all Dillon dies but do use the lee factory crimp die.

  4. #4
    Plinker

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    The Blue Bullets seem to take less force than the copper plated or FMJ to seat. I flare them just enough to get started.

  5. #5
    Plinker harleymac1's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by n9tkf View Post
    The Blue Bullets seem to take less force than the copper plated or FMJ to seat. I flare them just enough to get started.
    I currently have it set where the projectile sits down in there pretty nice. I think this may be too much. I believe my ending diameter at crimp is about .379 / .380 but my flare diameter is about .387. I am going to back it off tonight and do my test loads and shoot them out tomorrow.
    WTS: 1999 HD Softail Custom (Way below Blue Book)

  6. #6
    Plinker

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    I flare just enough so the bullet will fit in just a little. Very little crimp. If your flare is not enough you will usually see a ring of the coating scraped off when you seat the bullet.

  7. #7
    Plinker

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    Same as the others, flare it just enough so the bullet sits on the case and doesn't scrape any of the coating off, I then crimp with the Lee Factory Crimp die. I use SNS bullets. SNS suggests using a slower burning powder for coated bullets. I've been using Sport Pistol which is supposedly for coated bullets but I have a friend that uses Titegroup without any problems.

  8. #8
    Plinker harleymac1's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmazzio View Post
    Same as the others, flare it just enough so the bullet sits on the case and doesn't scrape any of the coating off, I then crimp with the Lee Factory Crimp die. I use SNS bullets. SNS suggests using a slower burning powder for coated bullets. I've been using Sport Pistol which is supposedly for coated bullets but I have a friend that uses Titegroup without any problems.
    I bought some Sport Pistol to try out when I was ready to change over.


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    WTS: 1999 HD Softail Custom (Way below Blue Book)

  9. #9
    Grandmaster
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    Titegroup works fine. Been using it for years.
    No one is stronger or more dangerous than the man who can harness his emotions.

    www.BrightFirearmsTraining.com

    abright@ccrtc.com


  10. #10
    Sharpshooter Trapper Jim's Avatar

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    Bullseye, Be86, Titegroup all good.

    "See you on the Range"

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