It appears I'm going to start handloading for a gun I don't own.
My brother just "inherited" a 444 Marlin, and has hinted already that the ammo is not cheap.
How dificult is the 444 Marlin to handload?
Any little secrets I should be aware of?
Should I start rifle loading on a different round?
I've been dabbling in reloading for the past couple of years, going VERY slowly and taking it all in.
To date, I've only loaded straight-walled pistol cartridges.
I feel I'm ready to move to bottle neck cases, but would like to know what I don't know.
I screwed up a half dozen .35 Remington cases last year trying to size them and have no idea what I did wrong, so I stopped.
I already have dies for .223, .308Win, .30-06Sprg. .45-70gvt, .303Brit, .35 Remington, and a few more.
Which case would be the easiest for me to get into rifle cases? Does it really make a difference?
I see the 444 Marlin can generate chamber pressures in excess of 50,000psi, so I think I want to start slow...
Any advice would be appreciated.
My brother just "inherited" a 444 Marlin, and has hinted already that the ammo is not cheap.
How dificult is the 444 Marlin to handload?
Any little secrets I should be aware of?
Should I start rifle loading on a different round?
I've been dabbling in reloading for the past couple of years, going VERY slowly and taking it all in.
To date, I've only loaded straight-walled pistol cartridges.
I feel I'm ready to move to bottle neck cases, but would like to know what I don't know.
I screwed up a half dozen .35 Remington cases last year trying to size them and have no idea what I did wrong, so I stopped.
I already have dies for .223, .308Win, .30-06Sprg. .45-70gvt, .303Brit, .35 Remington, and a few more.
Which case would be the easiest for me to get into rifle cases? Does it really make a difference?
I see the 444 Marlin can generate chamber pressures in excess of 50,000psi, so I think I want to start slow...
Any advice would be appreciated.