AC condensation leak...help!

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  • Indy_Guy_77

    Grandmaster
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    16   0   0
    Apr 30, 2008
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    In quest to find our ant intrusion sites, I checked the utiliry closet.

    Wet floor. :-(

    lower condensation drain pipe - right where it exits the AC. Fitting is tight, or at least tight enough that my hand can't improve upon it.

    Suggestions?
     

    gunworks321

    Expert
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    69   0   0
    Nov 25, 2008
    1,077
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    Noblesville
    Is it possible to remove the drain pipe and check for plugged drain? Try that and then a few wraps of teflon tape on the threads and re-tighten. Solved my leak which was further down the line. If you have access to air compressor, blow out the entire line.
     

    Cameramonkey

    www.thechosen.tv
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    35   0   0
    May 12, 2013
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    Camby area
    I'll second checking the drain. I stepped on a wet floor on the other side of the wall of my air handler last year.

    Opened the access panel that you use to replace the filter and looked down into the base to see 2" of water on the concrete. 30 years of ick managed to form a decent seal between the concrete floor and sheet metal, but some managed to seep out.

    Several dumps of my wet dry vac later, I had the water cleaned up.

    Turns out my drain pipe was clogged, and water was falling to the floor inside the air handler.

    I stuck a shop vac on the output of the drain pipe and I swear I removed a small animal. :):
     

    Cameramonkey

    www.thechosen.tv
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    May 12, 2013
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    Camby area
    In quest to find our ant intrusion sites, I checked the utiliry closet.

    Wet floor. :-(

    lower condensation drain pipe - right where it exits the AC. Fitting is tight, or at least tight enough that my hand can't improve upon it.

    Suggestions?

    I think I found your problem. Cheap Chinese construction. :rofl::rofl::rofl:
     

    Crbn79

    Grandmaster
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    5   0   0
    May 4, 2014
    7,734
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    Indianapolis, North
    Shop vac the drain outlet. You get slim build up in there and it will hold back the water like crazy. They make special tablets you can toss in the pan that stop this from happening. Just gotta remember to put a new one in each year.
     

    LtScott14

    Master
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    0   1   0
    Apr 13, 2008
    1,523
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    Porter County
    Poor drain pipe install leads to a plugged pipe. A "tee" with open top will help by allowing gravity to push the water down. Some disagree, but mine has been piped for 23 yrs that way. Never an issue. The outlet pipes to the A coil, one branch leg up, one branch leg down to the drain pipe/floor drain.

    Yes, dog hair/ mucous build up is nasty, and yes you should pull and clean it a little more. Bleach water is good, the little tabs can help, but most people don't bother if it's okay. They sell a clear plastic trap that can can be taken apart and brushed out with a bottle brush. My fittings are hand pressed, no cement, and you can tap them apart. Don't reduce to a skinny pipe. Stay 3/4 in pvc if possible. Shop vacs do a good job as well.

    If your oulet is galvanized pipe-good luck. suppose to come loose, but usually like rusted/pitted to damage the drain pipe trying to remove it. Don't get in a hurry. Clear the outlet, use an electricians fish tape to probe the pipe, shop vac, CO2 devices, air, whatever.

    Good luck.
     

    Indy_Guy_77

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    Apr 30, 2008
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    It's a gas furnace. So far - didn't notice any dripping/leaking from the furnace's condensation drain system over the winter.

    This AC leak seems to be "behind" the silicone caulking right at the output site on the AC unit.

    Churchmouse & Son did the install - and he's gonna come out tomorrow (I hope...at least as per texting) and take a gander. Hopefully he can show me / demonstrate to me some tips/tricks beyond what y'all have talked about!!

    -J-
     

    ghitch75

    livin' in the sticks
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    Dec 21, 2009
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    Greene County
    It's a gas furnace. So far - didn't notice any dripping/leaking from the furnace's condensation drain system over the winter.

    This AC leak seems to be "behind" the silicone caulking right at the output site on the AC unit.

    Churchmouse & Son did the install - and he's gonna come out tomorrow (I hope...at least as per texting) and take a gander. Hopefully he can show me / demonstrate to me some tips/tricks beyond what y'all have talked about!!

    -J-

    CM will get you fixed up.....
     

    Indy_Guy_77

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    Apr 30, 2008
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    Another interesting development:

    After I turned it down from 78 to 76 last night at 8:00pm...

    Hardly a drop at all leaked out in the three hours it ran. (Also - normal for it to take three hours to subtract 3 degrees at ~85 exterior temperature?)

    I turned the 'stat up to 79 as I left the house this AM. CM shouldn't have any issues getting the thing to come on and begin squeezing water out of the air.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
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    Speedway area
    Just a note....it is a down flow system with open site drain. Really no need for a trap. The furnace is on top of the evap and we raised to floor to get enough fall on the drain.

    I will post up what I find.
     

    ghitch75

    livin' in the sticks
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    Dec 21, 2009
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    Greene County
    yes if the drain is in the supply air no trap needed and if in the return air a trap is needed as a air brake so it doesn't draw the water back to the coil.....or a trap is needed if drain into a sewer drain.....
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
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    Speedway area
    yes if the drain is in the supply air no trap needed and if in the return air a trap is needed as a air brake so it doesn't draw the water back to the coil.....or a trap is needed if drain into a sewer drain.....

    This is open sight into a large stand pipe below the furnace. It used to be for water softener, water heater, condensate and humidifier. Runs in a trapped line to the vent stand pipe if memory serves. Been a few years.
     
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