Composite decking

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  • IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
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    Carthage IN
    I am making a materials list so once we build we will have an idea how much our decks are going to cost us that way we can itemize the projects we want to do based on cost and priority. I am pretty sure when I build the decks I want to use composite decking to avoid future maintenance. However I am dumbfounded by the number of options available and don't know much about them. Cost is the most important factor should we decide to go composite, but I want something that will last 40 years or more. I do NOT want to use hidden fasteners. I would prefer to use 16 on center framing, but if a good argument could be made I can easily go 12 OC framing.

    The best price I have found so far has been NorthDeck from menards, but its not listed on the website. Supposedly that's because its seasonal, and best I can gather its made from rice hulls, which makes me uncertain. Its about 1.69 a linear foot, so I am sort of using that as a benchmark.

    What brands should I consider, are their places to buy blemished for reduced prices?

    Does the stuff that's hollow last?
     

    451_Detonics

    Grandmaster
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    6   0   0
    Mar 28, 2010
    8,085
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    North Central Indiana
    I used Trex with the hidden fasteners and couldn't be happier. It was my contractor's preferred material and as he is both a contractor and family friend I trusted his judgement, also a shooting buddy.
     

    Tactically Fat

    Grandmaster
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    22   0   0
    Oct 8, 2014
    8,270
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    Indiana
    Something to keep in mind with the composites: If you have railings, any unsupported spans will begin to sag/droop in seemingly short time span. You may have to up your railing support count in order to counteract that.
     

    Informed Decision

    Sharpshooter
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    0   0   0
    Jul 11, 2014
    559
    18
    Evansville
    Lowes offers Trex & also Choice Deck. Is this going to be near water such as a boat dock? If so then the Choice Deck is not as slick as the others tend to be when wet. Where ever you are... Go to your local Lowes, they have a deck design program. They can plug in different parameters to show different costs to you. Honestly though expect to pay double for a composite deck vs a treated. Also keep in mind that the only thing that is composite is the parts you walk on & touch. The substructure will still be treated lumber.
     

    TB1999

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    6   0   0
    Jun 22, 2010
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    Menard composite is good stuff. They also have computers in the store that you can design your deck and it will give you a material list that you can use to shop around.
     

    DRob

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    20   0   0
    Aug 2, 2008
    5,869
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    Southside of Indy
    A buddy used it on a boat dock. He said on a hot sunny day it was too hot to walk on barefoot. Color may make a difference with that. I don't know which brand he used.
     

    The Keymaster

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    13   0   0
    Mar 12, 2010
    4,501
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    Manistee County, MI
    A buddy used it on a boat dock. He said on a hot sunny day it was too hot to walk on barefoot. Color may make a difference with that. I don't know which brand he used.

    My cedar deck is hot to walk on on sunny days. I looked at Trex before I built my cedar deck. It that time it was 60% more costly, so I went with wood. The prices have come down, so it is much more cost effective. After 5 years, I wish I has spent the extra money. The maintenance on the cedar deck is killing me.
     

    Tripp11

    Expert
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    1   0   0
    Jan 3, 2010
    1,180
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    Fishers, IN
    My contractor said 16" OC was fine for non-45 degree installation. If going 45 degree, he said it's best to go 12" OC. That's when I was thinking about going with the composite. At the end of the day, I couldn't justify the extra expense and went with cedar and installed it myself. Now am kicking myself for not doing it. (just like The Keymaster) This winter, we ripped out the cedar deck and replaced it with a concrete aggregate patio. If we would have went composite from the start, we wouldn't have ripped out the never-ending maintenance cedar deck.
     

    datIANguy

    Plinker
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    0   0   0
    Oct 10, 2014
    61
    8
    Colfax
    It's all about what you want to spend. I used to be a framer and built decks on the side with another guy. Most people didn't want the cost of the composite stuff but after a year or 2 wished they had just for the simplicity of care. Not to mention it won't splinter after a few years and still be safe on the feet. The colors can match ANYTHING you want really......

    I wouldn't buy anything hollow. At some point water will be able to enter it and freeze. That could bust anything hollow. Scratch and dent stuff is always cheaper if you can buy it at a discount I'd do it. You might have to buy a little more in the long run. I do that on all my drywall projects. Best part is when you pick one that's not too bad you can always fix it :D A little more work but saves a LOT of money.
     

    IndyGunworks

    Grandmaster
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    25   0   0
    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
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    Carthage IN
    Its difficult to find prices of some of this stuff... But after consideration, I think I am going to use 2x8 treated yellow pine for the deck surface and CAMO hidden fasteners. Probably do one horizontal piece in the middle, and a 16 foot section parallel to the house on either side. That will allow for no butt joints on the same joist, and if I want to add to make it bigger I have a design that's minimal work to add another 16 foot section.

    Hopefully using 2x8's will reduce warping and splintering and give it a unique look.

    Any recommendations for stains/water sealer/UV inhibitors?

    I just cant justify the cost of composite at this point in time w/ all the other projects I will want to accomplish once we move. A garage most notably.
     

    IndyGunworks

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    Feb 22, 2009
    12,832
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    Carthage IN
    wow, thanks.... I really like the looks of that.... will cut my normal deck treatment time in half. I imagine if I keep up with it once a year I wont have to pressure wash again.
     

    Tripp11

    Expert
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    1   0   0
    Jan 3, 2010
    1,180
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    Fishers, IN
    wow, thanks.... I really like the looks of that.... will cut my normal deck treatment time in half. I imagine if I keep up with it once a year I wont have to pressure wash again.

    That's all I used after building our cedar deck. It was a good product, to me at least, that actually soaked into the wood rather than sitting on top. I never pressure washed. Every year (and if I really slacked off, every two) I would clean with part bleach and part water and I applied that with a tank sprayer. I think used a hard brissel brush and scrubbed at the decking. Then I washed/rinsed off very well 3-4x with just a normal hose bib and hose.

    The last deck we had, that I ripped out, had a stain/sealer that st on top of the wood and it would always peel and crack. When I saw that, I said never again.
     

    451_Detonics

    Grandmaster
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    6   0   0
    Mar 28, 2010
    8,085
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    North Central Indiana
    my new Trex deck...

    deck1_zps719a2dca.jpg


    deck2_zps80a11182.jpg
     

    dprimm

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Jan 13, 2013
    1,742
    83
    Just West of Indianapolis
    For sealent and stain, i am going to go with true oil. Consumers cannot get it in IN but pros can. Consumers can get it in MI and I think KY or TN. sgpherwin Williams said they would ship it n for a pro but not for me. True oil is supposed to soak in better and give a better stain and seal.
     
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