random brake grinding noise?

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  • Cameramonkey

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    2012 Kia Forte. A while back the brakes started squeaking when I would stop so I assumed it was the wear indicators. After a while I bought everything to change the brakes. Took all 4 wheels off and they all had a good 3/4 pad left. :scratch: I hosed them down with brake cleaner for good measure and sure enough, no more squeaks. Sent the parts back.

    Fast forward a bit. Squeal returns. Now sometimes I can hear a bit of a grinding noise, but more brake noise than a nasty grind. (brakes on this have never been silent) However every once in a while, like at extremely slow speed it has a really gnarly metal on metal grinding sound. One example was I was leaving a parking lot. Came to a stop behind another car, no grind. rolled forward to the edge of the road when the car ahead left and it sounded awful. Next stop sounded normal except for the squeal. (can really only hear the squeal when windows are down)

    Any ideas? Its not always grinding, and when it does it its almost always at slow speed.

    Any suggestions for a shop on the SW side? Or even Mooresville? I hate to take it to one of the chains like Car-x. I typically do them myself, but in weird situations where it isnt a cut and dried swapping of parts I prefer to let an expert do it so I dont screw it up more. :):
     

    red_zr24x4

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    E - brake would be my guess
    I have a '02 dodge that was the same way. Rears were rotors with a drum in the middle for the E - brake. No pads left on the E - brake
     

    Cameramonkey

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    rear disc, e brake appears to be the same pads.

    At least I cant find a replacement pad specific to that system, and I didnt see a separate pad. when I had the wheels off.
     

    GodFearinGunTotin

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    Maybe try spraying them down with cleaner again and see if it's the pads or something else? Some types of pads are just noisier than others. I went to change the brakes on my truck a few years ago and when I went to buy them, they guy says all they have is the semi-metallic (IIRC) and said the only difference is they're a little noisy. I was never so glad to when they finally wore out and replaced them. They were noisy. I don't remember a grind so much but yeah, they were noisy.
     

    GodFearinGunTotin

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    Another thought...are you sure it's not a front wheel bearing you're hearing? Next time you jack it up, grab the top and bottom of the wheel and see if there's any play top to bottom. If there is, that could be it.
     

    awames76

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    ceramic sometimes make noise. brother in laws squeaks all the time. told him to live with it or change the brakes that were 6 months old. ive taken it apart couple of times for squeaks, no problems found other than ceramic pads. i dont do ceramic there too hard.

    also on some cars have metal clips where the pads ride, ive had them move or break and hit the rotor. take the wheel off if the rotor is loose put 1 lug nut back on to hold it tight. look for loose or parts rubbing. if u was closer id look it over for u.

    if it makes noises at walking speed, have some one walk beside each wheel and listen for the one or two that make grinding noises.
     

    SkullDaddy.45

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    Turn the volume knob on the radio up until you can't hear the grinding noise anymore! Stop making this harder then it really is!!!!
     

    Cameramonkey

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    Leave the windows up.

    Tried that. The grinding is what finally escalated it.

    Turn the volume knob on the radio up until you can't hear the grinding noise anymore! Stop making this harder then it really is!!!!

    Thats a lot of volume!

    Trade it in, you wanted a new car anyways didn't you??

    Hells no! Its almost paid off! I was looking forward to no car payment!

    Slide pins for the caliper could be seized up and not allowing it to move like it should

    Good idea! But wouldnt removing them to replace/re-lube the pins cause the pads to shift outside the current track leading to shortened stopping and faster wear? Or would they settle back into the current position?
     

    churchmouse

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    Good idea! But wouldnt removing them to replace/re-lube the pins cause the pads to shift outside the current track leading to shortened stopping and faster wear? Or would they settle back into the current position?

    No. This would only free up the pads to float as they should.

    Keep the lube on the pins and not so much as it will get on the pads.

    I would bet you lunch the pads are just hard.
     

    Bigtanker

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    Just cap off the rear brakes at the master cylinder. Problem solved.

    Rear brakes only do about 15% of the breaking anyway.

    I may or may not have done this to a Geo Metro at one point in my life.
     

    thunderchicken

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    I agree with CM, but I would lube slide pins and the metal ends of the backing plates on the pads where the slide on the caliper mount. Rust tends to build up in that area.
    Does the E brake cable attach to the caliper or does itgo through the dust shield and inside the drum of the rotor? If it goes into the drum slip the drums off and check the E brake shoes. While the pads are off hit the pad surfaces with some sand paper.
    The thing to keep in mind is as brakes are applied there is a transfer of material from the pad that embeds in the rotor. As disc brakes wear it is pretty much normal for noise to develop, especially squealing.
     

    bobzilla

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    Have the same generation car that I autox for 4 years. Mine only grinds the first stop of the day from rust buildup over night. He e-brake is a mini drum inside the rear rotor hat so it's a completely separate system that is only actuated when using the lever. If the pass are still good, my advice would be to scuff the rotors to break the glaze and scuff the pass then rebed the brakes.
     

    bocefus78

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    Did you clean the caliper bolts off and reapply loctite on them? They really need loctite and some crazy amount of torque. Caliper may be coming loose and causing the intermittent noise. Also make sure your backing plates haven't been bent in towards rotor by road debris.

    Edit:blue loctite...not red!
     
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    thunderchicken

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    Loctite is not needed on brake parts but sufficient torque is necessary but you don't need to use a torque wrench. The problem is probably going to be hard spots in the pads, damaged e brake shoes, or a sticking/lubrication problem. Loose or missing bolts does happen but always a result of improper installation
     
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