My sons new project. 2006 GMC Yukon with 4 wheel drive issues?

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  • 1911ly

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    Some of you might remember my sons first project car. We finished that one a few years ago.
    https://www.indianagunowners.com/forums/break-room/396053-any-gm-tranny-experts-out-there.html

    We had a lot of fun with it. After 2 years of fun and driving it we decided to get another project for him. He did some trading and ended up with a 2006 GMC Yukon. It (of course) has issues or it wouldn't be a project. :yesway:



    Oil pressure gauge doesn't work. And the fuel gauge is DOA too. Those are issues we can take care of later. The 4 wheel drive is a bit more important.

    A little history and a ideal of where I am at with it. The truck belonged to a friend that has had it for about 5-6 years. A few weeks ago he brought it over because it was making a noise. I jacked it up and the noise seemed like it was on the left front wheel. The wheel bearing was shot. It had a ton of play in it. He had his grandson change the bearing/hub. But that did not take care of all of the noise. He took it somewhere and they told him the 4 wheel drive had issues and it was gonna probably be expensive. He doesn't have the $$ to put in it. So we ended up with it at a really reasonable price.

    When I got it home the display showed "Service 4 wheel drive" It would not shift in to 4 wheel drive. I pulled the fuse to reset the TCCM and after I put it back in I could hear the transfer case shifting. I jacked up all 4 corners and I could see the output shafts turning front and rear out of the transfer case. But the front axle wasn't locked, the front wheels did not spin. Upon closer inspection I notice the front diff actuator was unplugged. So I plugged it in and it would lock in and I could shift 2w/4w/4w low and All wheel drive. It I thought I was on to something good.

    I drove it for about 2 miles and it sound great at first and it started making noise again. It sounds like a popping noise, like something is rolling around and catching. It doesn't seem to matter 2w/4w/4w low etc.

    It takes a few miles to mess up. My first though was transfer case. Maybe the chain was slipping. I know there are known issues with this transfer case. We drove it this afternoon until it screwed up again. We got it up in the air and the noise sounds like it's in the front diff. The transfer case appears to be newer then the truck BTW. And I hear no noise from it. I put it in 2 wheel drive in the air and it's fine no noise. But then I switch in to 4 wheel and it grr's and growls in the front diff until it locks. And then it is not very quiet. And it makes a racket when it locks in and it also takes a moment to lock in.

    I locked in the 4 wheel drive and had my boy hold the tire still and I rotated the front drivers side tire and the differential has what I think it's a ton of play. Here are a few videos of both sides. The axles seem fine. No play in the U joints.

    [video=youtube;VWYo17YAi64]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWYo17YAi64[/video]

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PK9WX-mVees

    The amount of play seems extreme to me. What do you 4 wheel drive guys think? Front diff??

    Thanks in advance for any advice.
     
    Last edited:

    GLOCKMAN23C

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    I would pull the front diff cover and put a set of eyes on the innards...

    There will be some endplay in the axles/pinion but yours looks excessive.
     

    churchmouse

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    Way to mush play. Drain the diff. Inspect the fluid for debris. As "G" man has already said pill the cover. Tell us what you find.
    If it has been driven on dry streets in 4WD for ant real distance it is hurt.

    W service the diff's front and rear every other year. Just because.
     

    hopper68

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    May not be a cover to pull, I think that one is 2 aluminum halves that bolt together. Can you move the yoke up and down? Does the fluid smell burnt or is it black?
     

    1911ly

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    Way to mush play. Drain the diff. Inspect the fluid for debris. As "G" man has already said pill the cover. Tell us what you find.
    If it has been driven on dry streets in 4WD for ant real distance it is hurt.

    W service the diff's front and rear every other year. Just because.

    When he got it I warned him about driving in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement but I don't know if he listened to me. I did catch him pulling a trailer in 4 wheel drive because someone told him it would be easier. Grr, That was a year or so ago.

    Sadly the case has to be split to see the inside. No cover. :( there is a drain plug that should have a magnet on it. I was gonna pull it today but I didn't have anything to put back in it for the moment.
     

    1911ly

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    May not be a cover to pull, I think that one is 2 aluminum halves that bolt together. Can you move the yoke up and down? Does the fluid smell burnt or is it black?

    Yep. No cover. I will pull the plug in the next day or so and look at it and the oil.
     

    churchmouse

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    When he got it I warned him about driving in 4 wheel drive on dry pavement but I don't know if he listened to me. I did catch him pulling a trailer in 4 wheel drive because someone told him it would be easier. Grr, That was a year or so ago.

    Sadly the case has to be split to see the inside. No cover. :( there is a drain plug that should have a magnet on it. I was gonna pull it today but I didn't have anything to put back in it for the moment.

    You just answered your own question.
    What inbred moron said it was easier to pull a load on dry ground in 4WD. Probably killed it.
    Memory kicked back in when mentioned they were 2 piece. Nope, no cover.

    These are not hard to change.
     

    Rookie

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    If it's the gears, I've got a buddy in fort Wayne that can change them. He's very reasonable and experienced (he works for Dana)
     

    halfmileharry

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    You can still have a bad CV joint in that.
    I've seen those have the joint bad and not show the play under the boot.
    Not saying it is or isn't by a video look but I'd take a closer look at it if it was mine.
     

    hopper68

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    If he is going to dry on dry pavement in 4wd the tires must be a matched set. I suggest taking a tape measure and measuring the circumference of each tire. And if you end up replacing the front diff you must go back with the same ratio so it matches the rear. Real issues I have seen.
     

    1911ly

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    If it's the gears, I've got a buddy in fort Wayne that can change them. He's very reasonable and experienced (he works for Dana)

    I'll get it out a bit more. I'll see what a use one cost. But TBH, If this can Be rebuilt for around the same $$ I'd rather go that way. I will get back with you. If you get a chance ask him what he thinks a rough cost would be. If he can do it I'd just as soon have new bearings and all.

    You just answered your own question.
    What inbred moron said it was easier to pull a load on dry ground in 4WD. Probably killed it.
    Memory kicked back in when mentioned they were 2 piece. Nope, no cover.

    These are not hard to change.

    It did not look real bad to do. If I can use my buddy's shop I will do it yet this year. if not it will be a spring project.

    You can still have a bad CV joint in that.
    I've seen those have the joint bad and not show the play under the boot.
    Not saying it is or isn't by a video look but I'd take a closer look at it if it was mine.

    I am 99.9% sure they are fine. I held them still at the diff and rotated the tire on both sides. I can grab the yoke and hub and feel play in the diff. I will give the axles a better look when I get it apart for good measure. Thanks.

    If he is going to dry on dry pavement in 4wd the tires must be a matched set. I suggest taking a tape measure and measuring the circumference of each tire. And if you end up replacing the front diff you must go back with the same ratio so it matches the rear. Real issues I have seen.

    Yeah, this is most likely another contributing issue. I know he has mixed and matched the tires over the years. He put 2 new front tires on it last summer. I told him to stay way from the 4 wheel drive unless it was really slippery. But I am sure he pushed it.

    I am getting more confident in this diff being bad. :(

    FWIW it is a GT5 4:10 ratio. I just remembered a few years ago he had a wreck that damaged the rear axle. Insurance paid someone to replace it. I am thinking he used a GM dealer? I need to ask him and see, then check the ratio in this one. I'd think that who ever did it knew better, But I will see if I can ID this rear end. If it turns out to be wrong we might be able too go back to the insurance company? I don't know.

    Thanks for the tips and info everyone!
     

    1911ly

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    If it's the gears, I've got a buddy in fort Wayne that can change them. He's very reasonable and experienced (he works for Dana)

    You just answered your own question.
    What inbred moron said it was easier to pull a load on dry ground in 4WD. Probably killed it.
    Memory kicked back in when mentioned they were 2 piece. Nope, no cover.

    These are not hard to change.

    You can still have a bad CV joint in that.
    I've seen those have the joint bad and not show the play under the boot.
    Not saying it is or isn't by a video look but I'd take a closer look at it if it was mine.

    If he is going to dry on dry pavement in 4wd the tires must be a matched set. I suggest taking a tape measure and measuring the circumference of each tire. And if you end up replacing the front diff you must go back with the same ratio so it matches the rear. Real issues I have seen.

    I just looked at the vid real close and Harry is onto something here. The play is out past the drive axle or so it appears.
    It's an illusion because the shaft is smaller. I held it at the axle inside and at the tire on both sides. :(
     

    halfmileharry

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    I just watched the video again. I'm still seeing the slop at the end of the axle. Tire is moving back and forth and the axle isn't moving.
    The knuckle wears out the inside of the CV housing causing this. Once they start wearing they wear fast.
    Too much throttle with the wheels turned is the death of cv joints.
     

    1911ly

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    If it's the gears, I've got a buddy in fort Wayne that can change them. He's very reasonable and experienced (he works for Dana)

    You just answered your own question.
    What inbred moron said it was easier to pull a load on dry ground in 4WD. Probably killed it.
    Memory kicked back in when mentioned they were 2 piece. Nope, no cover.

    These are not hard to change.

    You can still have a bad CV joint in that.
    I've seen those have the joint bad and not show the play under the boot.
    Not saying it is or isn't by a video look but I'd take a closer look at it if it was mine.

    If he is going to dry on dry pavement in 4wd the tires must be a matched set. I suggest taking a tape measure and measuring the circumference of each tire. And if you end up replacing the front diff you must go back with the same ratio so it matches the rear. Real issues I have seen.

    I just watched the video again. I'm still seeing the slop at the end of the axle. Tire is moving back and forth and the axle isn't moving.
    The knuckle wears out the inside of the CV housing causing this. Once they start wearing they wear fast.
    Too much throttle with the wheels turned is the death of cv joints.

    I'll double check it tomorrow to be sure. Thanks Harry.
     

    churchmouse

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    I just watched the video again. I'm still seeing the slop at the end of the axle. Tire is moving back and forth and the axle isn't moving.
    The knuckle wears out the inside of the CV housing causing this. Once they start wearing they wear fast.
    Too much throttle with the wheels turned is the death of cv joints.

    I did as well. Not saying Larry is wrong at all but it sure does look like the shaft is static.
     

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