Buying A New Car

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  • jkaetz

    Master
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    3   0   0
    Jan 20, 2009
    1,953
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    Indianapolis
    Don't do it! :):

    Best bang for your buck is ~1 year old and less than 10k miles.

    If you do go new, don't let them sell you a car, tell them which one you want and give them a price that you can come up from. If they don't want to work with you then go to the next one. I've had lots of luck shopping at remote dealerships over the internet. If you aren't coming into the dealership they know they have to meet your price to make a sale. Otherwise why would you contact them. One dealer even took care of the delivery rather than making me come pick it up.

    As for your question, I'm not sure anyone truly has an "invoice" price. They have a price that they will make money from and sometimes they'll sell it to you for that. Only the daelerships know what that number is.
     
    Last edited:
    Rating - 100%
    30   0   0
    Aug 4, 2017
    2,133
    113
    Fishers
    If you insist on new, check out Truecar. Most prices you see on the dealer's website are at or slightly below invoice.

    The best bang for your buck is a 1-2 year old certified pre-owned vehicle.
     

    Hohn

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Jul 5, 2012
    4,444
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    USA
    Agree that best bang/buck is nearly new but used.

    But CPO is often MUCH higher price than comparable private market. When you shop, shop the seller as much as the car. Buy from someone who keeps a clean car and is persnickety about maintenance and you can skip all the CPO "value added" and save a lot of money.

    I bought my minivan as a 9-month used vehicle in 2006 for about 9K less than MSRP of new. Good luck finding a new deal THAT good on an Odyssey.

    ETA: Still driving that same Odyssey. Or rather, wifey is.
     

    spec4

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Jun 19, 2010
    3,775
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    NWI
    You need to do some homework. Before you set foot in a dealership to buy, you should know exactly what you want as far as model, options, color, etc. You should then ask dealers for an online quote. If you have a trade, you should know the minimum you will accept for it. All this is not an easy process, but the internet has plenty of tools to help you. Check out Kelly Blue Book and my favorite, Edmunds.

    Remember, the car sales folks do this all day long and know all the tricks and buttons to push. You have to be ready to take that on. Above all, you must be prepared to walk if things aren't going your way. Have fun!
     

    Hohn

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Jul 5, 2012
    4,444
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    USA
    If buying new, you may have a TON of negotiating room or nearly none.

    For example, it's well-known that Jeep Wranglers have almost no margin in them for the dealership at MSRP. If they come down $500 off MSRP, they are losing money. So if you are set on a Jeep, don't expect a deal.

    Conversely, a decked out HD pickup might have 8k-12k of wiggle room in it or more (King Ranch, Laramie Longhorn, etc).
     

    Vigilant

    Grandmaster
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    21   0   0
    Jul 12, 2008
    11,659
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    Plainfield
    If you plan on keeping it, buy new. If you want something else in three years, buy used. Are you financing, or paying cash? Former, used, latter, new. If you own the vehicle outright bought new, “depreciation” means really nothing, until you sell it. If you’ve put 300K on the clock and you sell it you didn’t lose anything. Just like the stock market, if you are in for short term, you won’t get your money back, if your in long term, you’ll get your money “back”.
     

    Vigilant

    Grandmaster
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    21   0   0
    Jul 12, 2008
    11,659
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    Plainfield
    Another thing, “invoice” is a car dealer trick. When was the last time you bought something “less” than invoice? “Invoice” is a piece of paper that “says” what the dealer “paid” for the car. How many businesses would stay in business selling “below invoice”. Rebates, hold backs, and fees. Quit worrying about “below invoice”. Make the best deal you can make with your financial situation. The “invoice” is whatever the guy holding the numbers sheet says it is! If you can get a car $50K “under invoice” just know, the car was $53K overpriced.(No real car dealers were harmed in the making of this post)(brought to you by PETA, People for the Ethical Treatment of *******s)
     

    dprimm

    Master
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    1   0   0
    Jan 13, 2013
    1,741
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    Just West of Indianapolis
    My mom just got a new car. Looked at used and new. She got new for less than 3k difference. That was compared to stuff 1-3 years w over 10k on them. She will keep it until someone else totals it, like the last one.

    On on the flip side I want a truck when we replace my car. Used is high on my list. We will start shopping this fall but I don't care if we spend a couple years looking(so long as my car continues to drive)

    Dont be be in a hurry. Be prepared to walk. Post Christmas is a good time to buy.
     
    Rating - 100%
    30   0   0
    Aug 4, 2017
    2,133
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    Fishers
    My mom just got a new car. Looked at used and new. She got new for less than 3k difference. That was compared to stuff 1-3 years w over 10k on them. She will keep it until someone else totals it, like the last one.

    On on the flip side I want a truck when we replace my car. Used is high on my list. We will start shopping this fall but I don't care if we spend a couple years looking(so long as my car continues to drive)

    Dont be be in a hurry. Be prepared to walk. Post Christmas is a good time to buy.

    Why post Christmas?
     

    blacknwhite

    Marksman
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 6, 2016
    201
    18
    southwest
    Bought my truck 2 years ago almost to the day. It was the model year below out. Sticker said 52k....I paid 36k. Looked at used and it was only going to save me a few thousand dollars. I chose new and got the exact truck I wanted.
     

    Dean C.

    Master
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    2   0   0
    Aug 25, 2013
    4,429
    113
    Westfield
    I likes to start by using the Kelley Blue Book and TrueCar price curves for the particular car you want.


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    N7PWRUth.jpg


    Personally I prefer the TrueCar price curve as it is more detailed than the KBB price curve, so going into things you have a rough idea of what most people are paying for the car. I personally do not like setting foot on a dealership except to test drive and purchase the car. I sent price quote requests to all the dealers in a 100 mile radius essentially. Then I take the lowest price quote and send it back around the second time (personally I knock $1,000 off because they have no way of knowing I am lying to them just as much as they are lying to me).

    I have found a good time to get a really good price is holidays or at the end of the month (you might get lucky and find a dealer that just needs to sell one or two more cars to meet a factory sales incentive!)

    I just bought my new Honda Accord EX-L with the upgraded 2.0 liter turbocharged engine (making 252 HP paired with a sweet 10 speed automatic) on July 3rd as dealers were trying to meed sale incentives given by Honda. I only paid $28,000 for the car which is well below the "exceptional price" listed on both the KBB and TruCar price curves.


    Remember internet price quotes are your friend and walk into the dealership with your exact car already ready, I was in and out in less than an hour.


    UgpTwpKh.jpg



    Hope this helps since I literally just went through this process (and yes I plan on driving this car till it basically cant run anymore, just like my previous 2000 Chevy Cavalier!!!)
     

    BehindBlueI's

    Grandmaster
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    29   0   0
    Oct 3, 2012
    25,890
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    Know the exact car you want. Use Edmunds and manufacturer website to find all incentives you're eligible for.

    Email fleet sales/ internet sales at every dealership close enough you'd drive there.

    Tell them you'll buy a car on a set date from the best out the door price. List incentives you qualify for. Be noncommittal if you'll finance with them or bring your own.

    Take best price, send it to everyone who responded. State this is the last bid.

    Buy your car from who you select. Walk if they play with the price once you arrive. Remember who cares least wins negotiations. You aren't there to renegotiate, you are there to buy or you leave.
     

    terrehautian

    Master
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    3   0   0
    Jan 6, 2012
    3,491
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    Where ever my GPS says I am
    Last year I bought a one year old (16) equinox ltz (heated leather seats, power front seats, sunroof, almost all the extras). Used retail was 26k. I paid that price after taxes and extras (roof rack rails, hitch, extra key). It only had 10,xxx miles on it. It was a gm executive car. I will never buy new, will always try to find less them 2 years old and under 15k.
     

    bgcatty

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    23   0   0
    Sep 9, 2011
    3,021
    113
    Carmel
    All of the below invoice is Bravo Sierra two times over. If you must have a new car do the research, check the prices all over across several dealers and then make a decision on how much you are willing to pay for the vehicle. Always remember that no dealer or sales manager is making you an offer you can’t refuse or they blow your brains out to paraphrase a famous scene from The Godfather. Make your offer and always, always be prepared to literally walk out the door. You will be amazed at how they run after you with a better offer. I’ve done it many times over the years and even walked again from the same place. My Dad always told me, there is always another deal around the corner.
     

    doddg

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
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    135   0   1
    May 15, 2017
    8,614
    77
    Indianapolis
    I really enjoyed reading this thread, as I have 2 vehicles to buy anytime I get around to it: no hurry.
    I researched at Xmas time for a deal (knowing that is when dealerships are hungry), but I have always bought used except for my 05 Corolla.
    I usually did the 4 yrs. old buy used routine and kept my vehicles for 6 - 8 yrs.

    The last time time I bought was a 6 yr. old sports car (Honda S2000 roadster) with only, wait for it: 8975 miles on it (yes, you read that right).
    It was a $32,000 car and I bought it for $18.5k since it was 6 yrs. old, but I got a "new" car with under 9k miles on it.
    I'm still driving it and it has 83,000 miles on it now, and people put over 200k miles on these and some have over 300k miles on it (I'm in S2KCA car club: I know these things) :laugh:

    The only time I bought a new car was back in the fall of 2004 when I bought a 2005 Toyota Corolla.
    I was wanting to get something newer used than 4 yrs. old (1-2 yrs. old) and nothing I looked for was cheaper that $11k or $12k, even from individuals.
    So, since they were new only $14.5, it was a no-brainer to buy new with 000 miles and a new warranty.
    This concept won't work if you are buying a $30k+ car, but the depreciation on a $14.5 car isn't anything to care about if you keep your cars (I still am, or wife, driving the car with 140,000 miles on it.

    At Xmas time I found 4 Jeeps I would have bought.
    One wasn't really ready to be sold yet ($14.5) (how do you advertise "For Sale" and then not sell?), it was drop-dead gorgeous, one of those "city-Jeeps,"
    One with only 7500 miles on it (wanted $17k).
    I wanted bad but the seller wanted $2000 more than I thought it was worth (it was perfect, but was 8-10 yrs. old).
    One I would have bought on the spot (100k miles but all maintenance done by old man like myself, for $10k), but it was white (I hate white), and when I called back 2 days later, it has sold.
    One that after diving it: no. ($12k)

    I have asked the wife many times over the past 4 yrs. if she wanted me to buy her another car, but she didn't care.
    We both would like to get a small SUV just for ease to get in and out of.

    My arthritis is making getting in/out of my sports car humorous if anyone is watching.
    I love/demand/only want: a convertible, but I'm not paying half my retirement IRA to buy one! :rofl:
    Therefore, the Jeep. (anywhere from $10k to $20k: used) (I had one for 4 yrs. that I loved back in the 90s: taught my son to drive a manual/stick in it. (he drives a 6 speed, convertible to this day! :rockwoot:
    My daughter I taught on a 79 MG convertible! (she drives a 6 speed 300 hp convertible today, 38 yrs. old).
     
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