Stuborn brake flare nut- I need some advice

[Old Dog]

Long story, but here is the short version. I have a 1970 Pontiac LeMans and I need to remove the front driver side hard brake line from the junction block on the left frame rail. This flare nut basically points up toward the MC and booster. I have soaked the flare nut with Kroil and PB Blaster for a week and can’t get it to budge with my flare wrench. I also used a loooong flat-blade screwdriver and small hammer to gently tap on the top of the flare nut in an attempt to get some shock on it to move the penetrating oil down into the threads. Don’t want to tap too hard and smash the nut or bugger the threads. Nut is on top of junction and can barely get a wrench on it. No way to get a torch in there to get some heat on it. Not sure what I might damage if I did. Tried my heat gun, but that barely got it warm.

I am a fair shade-tree wrench but this one has me stuck. My last thought is to try to find an aerosol can, with a straw, of something really cold to spray on the nut in an attempt to shrink it with the cold, but right now I do not know what might work.

Anyone have any ideas for me to try?

 

[femurphy77]

You're not going to like this but just go ahead and twist it off then replace the hard line. I've been working on a 63 Galaxie and ran into the same thing but what I found is that the flare nut wasn't rusted at the threads the flare nut was rusted to the steel tubing that goes thru it. I had this on both front lines and where the hard line ties into the rubber line going down to the rear end. YMMV

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

Femurphy is spot on. Cut the line with a pair of diagonal cuts and put a socket on it. It will come free.

 

[churchmouse]

Femurphy is spot on. Cut the line with a pair of diagonal cuts and put a socket on it. It will come free.

Bingo. This is one that finesse will not help. I have seen the threads come out of the "J" block on something this old.

 

[Old Dog]

You're not going to like this but just go ahead and twist it off then replace the hard line. I've been working on a 63 Galaxie and ran into the same thing but what I found is that the flare nut wasn't rusted at the threads the flare nut was rusted to the steel tubing that goes thru it. I had this on both front lines and where the hard line ties into the rubber line going down to the rear end. YMMV

Yeah, that's what happened at the flex line on the other side, and is why I am replacing the hard line on both sides. Already snapped line off at flex line, just can't get the other end out of the junction block. I had thought about cutting line at junction block and getting a 6 point socket on it from above. This may be the only option. I am trying to not damage the junction because I don't want to replace it, which will probably necessitate replacement of the rear hard lines. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[Old Dog]

Bingo. This is one that finesse will not help. I have seen the threads come out of the "J" block on something this old.

This I did not want to hear! Don't want to have to replace rear lines also. Thanks for the input.

 

[printcraft]

Go with the nickel copper line for replacement, you don't even need a bender and it will not rust. It's really easy to flare.

 

[Hop]

An upside down can of air duster gets pretty cold. Or you could try a big soldering iron.

 

[femurphy77]

You "should be able to save the junction block but you'll want to chuck it up in a vice to prevent damage to it. Gonna have to cut the hard lines though. Cut it where it'll be easy to access so uou can re flare it.

 

[Old Dog]

I got it!! Cut the line, put a 6 point socket on, used every extension and adapter that I own, and went at it from above. Tried it with a 3/8 ratchet- no go, then hooked up my battery powered impact drill, bumped it twice and it came right out!! Threads in junction were good. I now have it all back together. Just need to bleed and check my work, but that is going to wait until tomorrow. Thanks again for the responses.

 

[churchmouse]

I got it!! Cut the line, put a 6 point socket on, used every extension and adapter that I own, and went at it from above. Tried it with a 3/8 ratchet- no go, then hooked up my battery powered impact drill, bumped it twice and it came right out!! Threads in junction were good. I now have it all back together. Just need to bleed and check my work, but that is going to wait until tomorrow. Thanks again for the responses.

I love my 1/4" impact. Love it.

 

[bobzilla]

Go with the nickel copper line for replacement, you don't even need a bender and it will not rust. It's really easy to flare.

just did this today on dad’s 02 Tahoe. The rear line had rusted through. That no-cop line is ****ing awesome. Replaced the whole line in no time.

 

[churchmouse]

just did this today on dad’s 02 Tahoe. The rear line had rusted through. That no-cop line is ****ing awesome. Replaced the whole line in no time.

If you did not do them all you will be soon enough. Just saying.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

victory!