ISO Indy area Chevy truck mechanic

[indyjohn]

I am at an impasse. As many of you know I have a 2010 Suburban, of which that I am nearly free and clear on. It developed a problem 2 years ago that is seasonal, in that it only occurs when the temp is below 32 degrees. It is certainly a mystery and likely electrical in cause. For the last 2 winters I've spent a large sum of money chasing this issue with no resolution. So here we are again with the issue causing problems in the family transportation situation. I would much rather solve the issue than re-upping a recurring monthly payment for another number of years by purchasing a new to me vehicle.

Looking at the Indy market, I don't have a lot of confidence in the choices for competent, honest auto service offerings.

So I'm looking for a Unicorn.

Does anybody have a Chevy wrench that delivers miracles without making you his prison girlfriend for his trouble?

 

[indyjohn]

It's a good truck. Most of the time.

 

[wcd]

I am at an impasse. As many of you know I have a 2010 Suburban, of which that I am nearly free and clear on. It developed a problem 2 years ago that is seasonal, in that it only occurs when the temp is below 32 degrees. It is certainly a mystery and likely electrical in cause. For the last 2 winters I've spent a large sum of money chasing this issue with no resolution. So here we are again with the issue causing problems in the family transportation situation. I would much rather solve the issue than re-upping a recurring monthly payment for another number of years by purchasing a new to me vehicle.

Looking at the Indy market, I don't have a lot of confidence in the choices for competent, honest auto service offerings.

So I'm looking for a Unicorn.

Does anybody have a Chevy wrench that delivers miracles without making you his prison girlfriend for his trouble?

What are issues? Guessing crank no start?, Or stalls out? Maybe with a little more info someone can help?

 

[d.kaufman]

Whats the issue?
Im not in Indy but have worked in the industry for 25 years. Can try and lead you in right direction, maybe have even seen the same issue. If i cant help, maybe someone i know may be able to help or steer you in the right direction as well.
Give as much detail as you can. Problem, when it occurs, frequency, check engine light(what codes if so), etc. Every little bit of info can help to try and diagnose

 

[indyjohn]

What are issues? Guessing crank no start?, Or stalls out? Maybe with a little more info someone can help?

Whats the issue?
Im not in Indy but have worked in the industry for 25 years. Can try and lead you in right direction, maybe have even seen the same issue. If i cant help, maybe someone i know may be able to help or steer you in the right direction as well.
Give as much detail as you can. Problem, when it occurs, frequency, check engine light(what codes if so), etc. Every little bit of info can help to try and diagnose

I've given Google a large amount of my time diagnosing and really looking for someone with access to an OBD computer and Service bulletins but here goes: Imagine turning the key to on, the dash lights up as normal, then when you turn to start... nothing.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

The best electrical shop in town is Emerton's @ Washington Square. They're not cheap, but they are good.

 

[churchmouse]

I've given Google a large amount of my time diagnosing and really looking for someone with access to an OBD computer and Service bulletins but here goes: Imagine turning the key to on, the dash lights up as normal, then when you turn to start... nothing.

And this is sub 32*s yes.........Engine will not spin over. Nothing...???

 

[indyjohn]

What are issues? Guessing crank no start?, Or stalls out? Maybe with a little more info someone can help?

And this is sub 32*s yes.........Engine will not spin over. Nothing...???

Nothing.

I found a vid on "your ground strap is bad" based on some other behaviors that present when it would start, like dancing tach, flashing messages. Cleaned up the contacts and the failure temp went from 42 degrees down to 32 but I didn't replace the ground strap as recommended.

 

[churchmouse]

Nothing.

I found a vid on "your ground strap is bad" based on some other behaviors that present when it would start, like dancing tach, flashing messages. Cleaned up the contacts and the failure temp went from 42 degrees down to 32 but I didn't replace the ground strap as recommended.

Thats odd but try the strap or just add one.

 

[rem788]

Here are some things to try: ( if you have already tried them let us know the results)
1. When the problem occurs, will the engine start if you shift to neutral? If so this indicates a neutral safety switch issue.
2. Are there any clicking sounds when you turn the key to the stat position? I don't have a wiring diagram for this specific vehicle but many times there is a start relay that might have issues. If the relay clicks, this indicates the control side of the relay is working and the contact side of the relay is the issue. If the relay does not click, there is an issue in the control side of the relay circuit.
3. Are there any security lights flashing? Typically a security light that continues to flash indicates an issue in the security/anti-theft system.This will definitely require a high level scanner with security system capabilities to diagnose the problem.
4. Are there any diagnostic trouble codes stored in any on board computers? Look for communication codes especially. If the onboard computers cannot talk to each other many functions can be disabled. This will also require a high level scanner to diagnose.
5. Do you have a DVOM? When the problem is occurring you can perform voltage drop tests on the starting system circuits and pinpoint the spot at which voltage is being lost or the point of high resistance. This should tell you if the ground strap is the problem. Simple resistance (ohms) tests will usually not find intermittent problems such as yours.
6. With a high level scanner you can monitor the live data stream and watch as you turn the key to the start position to see if the "start" request is being sent to the necessary on board computers. Again, I don't have this starting circuit memorized but many vehicles have computers that must receive the correct signal before the "start" function can be performed.
I owned an auto repair service that specialized in electrical and computer repairs for 20 years. The one thing I can tell you is that whoever attempts to diagnose your problem MUST perform the tests when the problem is present, doing otherwise is simply guessing. I have heard of Emerton Auto, mostly good. They sent a couple techs to a class I was teaching many years ago. I don't know where you are located but you might try Rick Alexander in Avon. Good luck.

 

[indyjohn]

Here are some things to try: ( if you have already tried them let us know the results)
1. When the problem occurs, will the engine start if you shift to neutral? If so this indicates a neutral safety switch issue.
2. Are there any clicking sounds when you turn the key to the stat position? I don't have a wiring diagram for this specific vehicle but many times there is a start relay that might have issues. If the relay clicks, this indicates the control side of the relay is working and the contact side of the relay is the issue. If the relay does not click, there is an issue in the control side of the relay circuit.
3. Are there any security lights flashing? Typically a security light that continues to flash indicates an issue in the security/anti-theft system.This will definitely require a high level scanner with security system capabilities to diagnose the problem.
4. Are there any diagnostic trouble codes stored in any on board computers? Look for communication codes especially. If the onboard computers cannot talk to each other many functions can be disabled. This will also require a high level scanner to diagnose.
5. Do you have a DVOM? When the problem is occurring you can perform voltage drop tests on the starting system circuits and pinpoint the spot at which voltage is being lost or the point of high resistance. This should tell you if the ground strap is the problem. Simple resistance (ohms) tests will usually not find intermittent problems such as yours.
6. With a high level scanner you can monitor the live data stream and watch as you turn the key to the start position to see if the "start" request is being sent to the necessary on board computers. Again, I don't have this starting circuit memorized but many vehicles have computers that must receive the correct signal before the "start" function can be performed.
I owned an auto repair service that specialized in electrical and computer repairs for 20 years. The one thing I can tell you is that whoever attempts to diagnose your problem MUST perform the tests when the problem is present, doing otherwise is simply guessing. I have heard of Emerton Auto, mostly good. They sent a couple techs to a class I was teaching many years ago. I don't know where you are located but you might try Rick Alexander in Avon. Good luck.

1. Haven't tried that. Not sure how that would be affected by temperature, but ok, I'll give it a whril.
2. No clicking. All relays have been replaced.
3. No.
4. U0073
5. I do. I would hope the last mechanic I gave hundreds of dollars to performed this test. In his efforts he: cleaned all electrical connections and applied dielectric lubricant, replaced the 175A Fuse at the battery, replaced the resistor for the computer, replaced the battery, alternator, and starter. By then it was into March and no longer cold enough to cause the issue.

Still looking for a mechanic that won't rape me.

 

[PGRChaplain]

Like Rem said #1 neutral safety switch. Had a friend with the same problem, this solved his. Low temps caused it to contract enough 2 not make contact.

 

[indyjohn]

Like Rem said #1 neutral safety switch. Had a friend with the same problem, this solved his. Low temps caused it to contract enough 2 not make contact.

Well then we'll have to try it.

 

[rem788]

1. Haven't tried that. Not sure how that would be affected by temperature, but ok, I'll give it a whril.
Things change with temperature. As PGRChaplain said sometimes connections disconnect, dielectric grease becomes thicker and separates contacts etc.
2. No clicking. All relays have been replaced.
OK
3. No.
OK
4. U0073
This code is a communication code: "Control Module Communication Bus 'A' Off". Does this code set every time the problem occurs? If the code is erased and resets
when the problem occurs this is the proverbial smoking gun and MUST be diagnosed first. This code refers to the CAN bus communication circuit and the person diagnosing the problem needs to be well versed in the operation of this communication system. One question I would ask whoever I took the vehicle to is " Do you have and use a Digital Storage Oscilloscope?". You can diagnose the CAN system with a DVOM but the only way to "see" if there is a viable signal on the circuit is with an oscilloscope.
5. I do. I would hope the last mechanic I gave hundreds of dollars to performed this test. In his efforts he: cleaned all electrical connections and applied dielectric lubricant, replaced the 175A Fuse at the battery, replaced the resistor for the computer, replaced the battery, alternator, and starter. By then it was into March and no longer cold enough to cause the issue.
This is not uncommon. We saw this many times. I hope the mechanic replaced all these parts with your approval and that you understood that these parts may not fix the problem. This is why I stated that the testing must be done when the problem is present. If the problem only occurs one time when you turn the switch to the start position and then the engine starts a second later when the ignition switch is turned to the start position again it will be extremely difficult to diagnose. The problem must be present or be consistent enough for the technician to complete his battery of tests. Otherwise you must wait until the problem reoccurs, or start guessing.

Still looking for a mechanic that won't rape me.
They are out there. Just let me say that after 35 years in the industry, teaching continuing education classes for technicians, teaching at both the secondary and college levels and working with numerous shops that most shops and techs are honest. The biggest problem in the automotive industry is lack of understanding how the complex electronic systems function and how to properly test them. The CAN bus system is a good example. This is a two wire communication circuit that uses voltage differentials to communicate. It has terminal resistors and the technician needs to know how to test the circuits in order to properly diagnose the problem You stated the mechanic "replaced the resistor for the computer" I am wondering which resistor was replaced. The terminal resistors for the CAN bus circuit are inside the computers. The computer would need to be disassembled, the resistor located, unsoldered and and new one soldered in. Not an easy task. We had a Cadillac once with the customer complaint of "Inoperative Climate Control". The A/C - heater system was basically dead. There was a display but no operation. We found there was no communication between any computers, no voltage on the bus circuit. The next step after determining no voltage on the circuit is to disconnect the vehicle computers one at a time then to recheck for voltage on the circuit. All thirteen of the computers had to be disconnected. The computers were located under the dash, in the trunk behind a panel, behind the back rest of the rear seat and under the driver's seat. This involves a lot of work which the shop and tech would reasonably expect to be compensated for. The problem was caused by a short inside the computer for the memory for the power seats. There was nothing wrong with the climate control system other than it could not get information from other computers it needed to perform its tasks. Later model vehicles may have over 40 computers that must communicate on multiple communication systems. This is just an illustration of why properly diagnosing and repairing a problem can be so expensive and difficult. Sometimes the source of the problem seems to be totally unrelated to the customer complaint.
Two other shops that come to mind:
Integrity Automotive in Carmel
CarTech off of south Emmerson on Victory Drive I believe.

Good luck.

 

[Dirtebiker]

Car tech (Jack Dietzel) is good (but pricey). He is a Cadillac specialist but works on everything.
I’ve got a buddy who is a long time GM tech that works out of his garage on the side. If you have time to wait on his schedule, pm me. I’ll pass on his info.
he is very fair priced.

 

[NHT3]

Car tech (Jack Dietzel) is good (but pricey). He is a Cadillac specialist but works on everything.
I’ve got a buddy who is a long time GM tech that works out of his garage on the side. If you have time to wait on his schedule, pm me. I’ll pass on his info.
he is very fair priced.

Beat me to it. I've known Jack for over 30 years. He was a line mechanic at Bud Wolf Chevy before he worked at Cadillac and he's as competent and honest as they come. Phone there is 317-791-0688.. Explain your situation and I"m sure he'll be able to help you. Tell him Charlie suggested you call him if you like.

[FONT=&amp]NRA Life Member / [/FONT]Basic Pistol instructor[FONT=&amp] / RSO[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

[/FONT][FONT=&amp]"Under pressure, you don't rise to the occasion, you sink to the level of your training. That's why we train so hard" [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Unnamed Navy Seal[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

[/FONT][FONT=&amp]“Ego is the reason many men do not shoot competition. They don't want to suck in public” [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Aron Bright[/FONT]

 

[Dirtebiker]

Beat me to it. I've known Jack for over 30 years. He was a line mechanic at Bud Wolf Chevy before he worked at Cadillac and he's as competent and honest as they come. Phone there is 317-791-0688.. Explain your situation and I"m sure he'll be able to help you. Tell him Charlie suggested you call him if you like.

[FONT=&amp]NRA Life Member / [/FONT]Basic Pistol instructor[FONT=&amp] / RSO[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

[/FONT][FONT=&amp]"Under pressure, you don't rise to the occasion, you sink to the level of your training. That's why we train so hard" [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Unnamed Navy Seal[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

[/FONT][FONT=&amp]“Ego is the reason many men do not shoot competition. They don't want to suck in public” [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Aron Bright[/FONT]

Yep, he’s done work for me and I’ve done work for him. He is an honest man!
you can tell him Chris recommended him also.

 

[indyjohn]

1. Haven't tried that. Not sure how that would be affected by temperature, but ok, I'll give it a whril.
Things change with temperature. As PGRChaplain said sometimes connections disconnect, dielectric grease becomes thicker and separates contacts etc.
2. No clicking. All relays have been replaced.
OK
3. No.
OK
4. U0073
This code is a communication code: "Control Module Communication Bus 'A' Off". Does this code set every time the problem occurs? If the code is erased and resets
when the problem occurs this is the proverbial smoking gun and MUST be diagnosed first. This code refers to the CAN bus communication circuit and the person diagnosing the problem needs to be well versed in the operation of this communication system. One question I would ask whoever I took the vehicle to is " Do you have and use a Digital Storage Oscilloscope?". You can diagnose the CAN system with a DVOM but the only way to "see" if there is a viable signal on the circuit is with an oscilloscope.
5. I do. I would hope the last mechanic I gave hundreds of dollars to performed this test. In his efforts he: cleaned all electrical connections and applied dielectric lubricant, replaced the 175A Fuse at the battery, replaced the resistor for the computer, replaced the battery, alternator, and starter. By then it was into March and no longer cold enough to cause the issue.
This is not uncommon. We saw this many times. I hope the mechanic replaced all these parts with your approval and that you understood that these parts may not fix the problem. This is why I stated that the testing must be done when the problem is present. If the problem only occurs one time when you turn the switch to the start position and then the engine starts a second later when the ignition switch is turned to the start position again it will be extremely difficult to diagnose. The problem must be present or be consistent enough for the technician to complete his battery of tests. Otherwise you must wait until the problem reoccurs, or start guessing.

Still looking for a mechanic that won't rape me.
They are out there. Just let me say that after 35 years in the industry, teaching continuing education classes for technicians, teaching at both the secondary and college levels and working with numerous shops that most shops and techs are honest. The biggest problem in the automotive industry is lack of understanding how the complex electronic systems function and how to properly test them. The CAN bus system is a good example. This is a two wire communication circuit that uses voltage differentials to communicate. It has terminal resistors and the technician needs to know how to test the circuits in order to properly diagnose the problem You stated the mechanic "replaced the resistor for the computer" I am wondering which resistor was replaced. The terminal resistors for the CAN bus circuit are inside the computers. The computer would need to be disassembled, the resistor located, unsoldered and and new one soldered in. Not an easy task. We had a Cadillac once with the customer complaint of "Inoperative Climate Control". The A/C - heater system was basically dead. There was a display but no operation. We found there was no communication between any computers, no voltage on the bus circuit. The next step after determining no voltage on the circuit is to disconnect the vehicle computers one at a time then to recheck for voltage on the circuit. All thirteen of the computers had to be disconnected. The computers were located under the dash, in the trunk behind a panel, behind the back rest of the rear seat and under the driver's seat. This involves a lot of work which the shop and tech would reasonably expect to be compensated for. The problem was caused by a short inside the computer for the memory for the power seats. There was nothing wrong with the climate control system other than it could not get information from other computers it needed to perform its tasks. Later model vehicles may have over 40 computers that must communicate on multiple communication systems. This is just an illustration of why properly diagnosing and repairing a problem can be so expensive and difficult. Sometimes the source of the problem seems to be totally unrelated to the customer complaint.
Two other shops that come to mind:
Integrity Automotive in Carmel
CarTech off of south Emmerson on Victory Drive I believe.

Good luck.

Thank you for spending the time to give a detailed reply. The mechanic that did the stated work had my approval for everything he did, I felt replacing those components wasn't wasted money in the long run as they eventually wear out anyway. Toward the end, he did talk about the CAN system and disconnecting all the computers to narrow down the source. I understand the theory behind the design but it never happened, I no longer had an immediate issue with the warmer temps and the shop went out of business that summer. I haven't had the need to try the neutral position start yet because it's been starting for me. It does throw that code each time this happens and I did fail to mention that on the message display it will send "Park Assist Off", "Service Stabilitrack", and "Traction Control Off" even if it does start. But recently if I let it warm up for 20 minutes these messages will clear.

Car tech (Jack Dietzel) is good (but pricey). He is a Cadillac specialist but works on everything.
I’ve got a buddy who is a long time GM tech that works out of his garage on the side. If you have time to wait on his schedule, pm me. I’ll pass on his info.
he is very fair priced.

Beat me to it. I've known Jack for over 30 years. He was a line mechanic at Bud Wolf Chevy before he worked at Cadillac and he's as competent and honest as they come. Phone there is 317-791-0688.. Explain your situation and I"m sure he'll be able to help you. Tell him Charlie suggested you call him if you like.

[FONT=&amp]NRA Life Member / [/FONT]Basic Pistol instructor[FONT=&amp] / RSO[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

[/FONT][FONT=&amp]"Under pressure, you don't rise to the occasion, you sink to the level of your training. That's why we train so hard" [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Unnamed Navy Seal[/FONT][FONT=&amp]

[/FONT][FONT=&amp]“Ego is the reason many men do not shoot competition. They don't want to suck in public” [/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]
[/FONT][FONT=&amp]Aron Bright[/FONT]

Yep, he’s done work for me and I’ve done work for him. He is an honest man!
you can tell him Chris recommended him also.

Thanks for the lead on a local wrench.

 

[rem788]

"It does throw that code each time this happens and I did fail to mention that on the message display it will send "Park Assist Off", "Service Stabilitrack", and "Traction Control Off" even if it does start. But recently if I let it warm up for 20 minutes these messages will clear."
When there is a communication problem it is not unusual to get multiple messages like this. This is important information to make sure the shop that you take the vehicle to knows. This will give them a starting point in their testing sequence to pinpoint the problem.

Good luck.

 

[USA#1]

The only place around Indy that I can personally vouch for is Alexander Auto Repair, 174 Vista Park Way, Avon, IN 46123. A good friend of mine has worked there for a long time. They will do right by you.