Heating Uninsulated Pole Building

[glank09]

Our new place came with a 900 square foot outbuilding. It is on concrete and has 2 garage doors. I would like the ability to warm it up when I am out there working. This would not be a lot, maybe 3-4 hours a few times a month during the winter. I know if I were using it more often, it would be worth insulating it. I am considering a kerosine forced air heater that I will just run occasionally to bring the temp up. I also have a smaller older wood stove I could install, just not sure it would be worth it and not sure it would produce the heat needed to bring the temperature up in the uninsulated building. What’s everyone think?

 

[Wolfhound]

I would go with a kerosene salamander type heater. Check with your home owners insurance before you install a wood stove out there.

 

[Leadeye]

Get some of that insulation that places like DC metal use on their pole buildings. It makes a big difference.

 

[churchmouse]

Wood is OK but it requires a lot of work and is not an instant heat source.
Find a good propane salamander. Less fumes. No stink.
Fuel works but you will have the smell on you when you go in the house.

 

[Fargo]

I used a L.B. White barn heater, which is now for sale here since I have insulated/sealed up the shop. Mine is 24x32 and it could definitely bring the temp up quick. Way fewer fumes and quieter than the Kero salamanders I've used. Also gives you a thermostat etc.

https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...07-l-b-white-classic-60-barn-shop-heater.html

 

[Wolfhound]

Wood is OK but it requires a lot of work and is not an instant heat source.
Find a good propane salamander. Less fumes. No stink.
Fuel works but you will have the smell on you when you go in the house.

Yes, kerosene does have an odor to it. And, it's not as cheap as it use to be.

 

[churchmouse]

Yes, kerosene does have an odor to it. And, it's not as cheap as it use to be.

Nothing is as cheap as it used to be...

Nothing.

 

[Fargo]

Nothing is as cheap as it used to be...

Nothing.

Says the guy who remembers the days of bartering pointy rocks.

 

[femurphy77]

I've got a great wood stove that came out of my barn for a good price, I'm out of town for a few days though so it'll be Saturday before I can share photos.





Found my old post from last year and bumped it to the top if interested.

 

[churchmouse]

Says the guy who remembers the days of bartering pointy rocks.

Ah yes, the good old days.....

 

[churchmouse]

I used a L.B. White barn heater, which is now for sale here since I have insulated/sealed up the shop. Mine is 24x32 and it could definitely bring the temp up quick. Way fewer fumes and quieter than the Kero salamanders I've used. Also gives you a thermostat etc.

https://www.indianagunowners.com/fo...07-l-b-white-classic-60-barn-shop-heater.html

Actually this might be the right thing.

 

[Fargo]

Actually this might be the right thing.

It worked well for me, still made some noise but not the howl of a salamander. I used a carbon monoxide detector which registered 0 unless held directly at the outlet while running.

It isnt portable like a salamander, but I have to imagine it is much safer based on the design being for dedicated unattended livestock use.

 

[churchmouse]

On this topic......a buddy built a steel building that was 60' by 30' a few years ago. He procured several rolls of heavy clear plastic. before he got the plastic the building was only warm around the salamander. After he covered the walls and ceiling with the visgueen it was a lot easier to heat. A lot easier. No more drafts and it did hold the heat better. Tarps etc will do the same.

 

[2Lucky]

I had a LP gas salamander heater. First it was noisey and it did give me headaches if I used it for more than a half hour at a time. My neighbor has a pellet stove in his pole barn and it works fantastic.

 

[Old Dog]

Properly sized LP heater for immediate heat for short periods. Could add a wood stove for those all day projects, if you want to work that hard (cut, haul wood, dump ashes, etc.).

 

[KittySlayer]

On this topic......a buddy built a steel building that was 60' by 30' a few years ago. He procured several rolls of heavy clear plastic. before he got the plastic the building was only warm around the salamander. After he covered the walls and ceiling with the visgueen it was a lot easier to heat. A lot easier. No more drafts and it did hold the heat better. Tarps etc will do the same.

Also do you need to heat the whole building? Would tarping/walling off the smaller workshop area be an option? Heat faster with less power needed?

 

[Clay Pigeon]

Nothing is as cheap as it used to be...

Nothing.

My 1st ex wife...

 

[MRockwell]

I have a Dynaglo 70,000-w 20,000 salamander LP heater. I prefer LP to kerosene. If you go this route, make sure the tank is sized to keep up. I use a 40lb tank, and on days like today it will frost up.

I got my heater on Amazon warehouse deals, new in damaged box for a reduced price.

 

[Clay Pigeon]

Properly sized LP heater for immediate heat for short periods. Could add a wood stove for those all day projects, if you want to work that hard (cut, haul wood, dump ashes, etc.).

I preheat with a propane salamander and then use wood or coal to heat with in a huge insert depending on how long I will be in the shop that day.

 

[woowoo2]

Insulate the building, the fuel savings will pay for it.