Trailer bearings and brakes

[phylodog]

I bought a 2012 model year PJ Trailers 16' utility trailer back in October. She isn't the prettiest thing around but the price was right and in spite of the fact that the brakes don't work, it's worked out fine so far. I used it a few weeks ago and could hear the bearings in one of the wheels grinding so I'd like to replace all of them but I don't know what size I need. Is there an easy way to determine what I need? I tried contacting the manufacturer but they're not open on the weekend.

I also need to figure out what the issue is with the brakes. I replaced the trailer connector when I bought the trailer and the lights work like they're supposed to but I don't think I'm getting any braking out of it at all. Are they pretty simple systems? I'm decent a troubleshooting if I know what to look for. I assume it's an electrical issue with the trailer but that's just speculation based on the condition of the trailer.

Make me an expert in 150 words or less, and go....... lol

 

[maxwelhse]

In under 150 words?

Take the old bearings out. Match up the numbers from them to new ones at Napa. Take the drums off, clean/lube everything, test for power at the brakes themselves.

 

[gunrunner0]

Bearings are easy, just messy. Be aware, you may need to replace the hub as well if the raceway is damaged. The bearings will be marked so you know what you need for replacement. Otherwise go to a knowledgeable shop and tell them the brand and capacity of the axle and they can tell you what you need.

Take everything off, clean it with gas or diesel, repack the bearings with quality grease and put it back together and re-grease the hub.

Trailer Brakes are fairly simple but prone to failure without proper maintenance. You basically just need to trouble shoot until you figure out what's wrong. Use a test light/multimeter to determine if you're getting power to the brake unit. If so, take it apart grease and adjust appropriately.

 

[femurphy77]

It's a crap shoot nowadays as to whether or not the bearings are marked and if they'll be able to cross the numbers. A good counter man will be able to help but they are few and far between. The brakes are a little easier as its a simple circuit; apply power solenoid engages. Probable a simple wiring issue, oh and don't rely on the ball as your ground connection back to the vehicle, you need a good return path or they won't work. Ever noticed lights on a trailer flashing intermittently? Probably a bad ground thru the ball.

 

[maxwelhse]

Take everything off, clean it with gas or diesel, repack the bearings with quality grease and put it back together and re-grease the hub.

One of the best guys I've ever worked with, and I mean that in about every way possible, spent a few weeks in the burn unit after using gas to clean some turbo oil feed lines. Air compressor kicked on when he was blowing the gas out of the lines and ignited the atmosphere in his garage. Burned about 1/3 of his house down doing it too.

I like brake clean, outside, over a drain pan for stuff like this. That's assuming that I don't have access to a parts washer with water based cleaner in it (Simple Green works pretty well).

 

[long coat]

Do you have a brake control in your truck or are they surge brakes?
If you do have a brake control, does it show they are connected? It should show a light or something.
When the bearing were new, they would have a number on them. It may be gone by now.
How many logs nuts are on each wheel?
If its 5, it probably is a 3500lbs axle.
If 6 it could be 3500lbs or 5200lbs.
If its 8 it could be 6000lbs or 7000lbs.
There a are 2 different 6K drums, make sure you get the right one.
The 5200lbs-7000lbs have at least 2 different seal.

I work on trailers every day M-F.

 

[igotdiesel2]

long coat asked all the right questions. Go to etrailer.com trailer brakes and bearings go off the axle weight. 5 lug, 6 lug and 8 lug rims will get you close to what you need. Since its a PJ trailer I will assume they are electric brakes. You can order a complete set of brakes, drums, and bearings from etrailer and have them in less than a week. -Jason

 

[Clay Pigeon]

long coat asked all the right questions. Go to etrailer.com trailer brakes and bearings go off the axle weight. 5 lug, 6 lug and 8 lug rims will get you close to what you need. Since its a PJ trailer I will assume they are electric brakes. You can order a complete set of brakes, drums, and bearings from etrailer and have them in less than a week. -Jason

Yep...Many times it's just as cheap to buy backing plates with brakes and all hardware already on them.

 

[maxwelhse]

Yep...Many times it's just as cheap to buy backing plates with brakes and all hardware already on them.

Certainly a lot easier, but OP said he wants to get this done today. Don't Rural King and TSC sell complete setups like that?

 

[BigBoxaJunk]

I replaced the bearings and races on my old 1986 model utility trailer last year. I started by taking the hub off of one side and getting the old bearing out, and cleaned it up enough to match it at the store. I think there were only two different sizes at Rural King.

I tried an auto parts place first and they had bearings but no hub covers, so I went to Rural King, where I found bearings and races and hub covers, all for way cheaper than the auto parts store.

Like the other guys said, it's a dirty job. I put a piece of plywood over my bench before I started, and I was glad I did when I was done. It takes a lot of patience to tap out the races with a harbor freight punch and a hammer, but I felt better replacing everything.

Mine were really old and in bad shape, if yours are newer and in better shape, you may only need to replace the bearings. If so, it's not a hard job, just, you know, messy.

 

[GLOCKMAN23C]

In under 150 words?

Take the old bearings out. Match up the numbers from them to new ones at Napa. Take the drums off, clean/lube everything, test for power at the brakes themselves.

 

[thunderchicken]

Without reading all the others advice, if you need trailer brake parts/info I suggest contacting Waymire on Senate (right by where I65 runs through just south of 16th st).

 

[JeepHammer]

Lots of racing, race car trailers, lots of off roading/4x4s, family owned farm equipment & trucking companies...
My experience is, Timkin bearings, accept no substitution if you want them to live under 'Rough Service'.
AutoZone carries real Timkin bearings.
Off Road & big tuck guys swear by them, and I do to.

No such thing as 'Too Much Grease'.
Fill the hub with as much grease as you can get in there.
I drill hubs and add grease zerks so I can pump the hub full between bearings and trailers often have something called a 'Bearing Buddy' center cap that allows you to pump the hub full of grease.

Where grease is, moisture & crud can't be. It simply works as a barrier to keep moisture & crud out.

Use the best 'Synthetic' wheel bearing grease you can find.
I use either Valvoline or Mobile 1.
It doesn't dry out and/or liquify/separate and run out past seals.

 

[Super Bee]

If your near Fort Wayne bring her by the dealership. I will have one of the service guys re-pack/inspect them for you.

 

[long coat]

No such thing as 'Too Much Grease'.
Fill the hub with as much grease as you can get in there.
I drill hubs and add grease zerks so I can pump the hub full between bearings and trailers often have something called a 'Bearing Buddy' center cap that allows you to pump the hub full of grease.

Where grease is, moisture & crud can't be. It simply works as a barrier to keep moisture & crud out.

Use the best 'Synthetic' wheel bearing grease you can find.
I use either Valvoline or Mobile 1.
It doesn't dry out and/or liquify/separate and run out past seals.

We make alot of $ off of people putting to much grease in the hub. It will blow out the seal & we charge $90 an hour to clean the grease off the brakes or if it to bad, the shoes have to be replaced.
He is right about grease stopping crud and moisture, just don't go crazy.

 

[maxwelhse]

Lots of racing, race car trailers, lots of off roading/4x4s, family owned farm equipment & trucking companies...
My experience is, Timkin bearings, accept no substitution if you want them to live under 'Rough Service'.

You've gotta watch this now. Timkin has been having more and more stuff manufactured in India and China in the last few years and the quality reports of those bearings are not good. The last Timkin master rebuild kit I bought had Timkin USA bearings in it, but apparently under that same part number you can get anything inside the box.

With trailer bearings, I might roll the dice, but with an axle setup that takes me all weekend and can trash hundreds of dollars of gears if something goes wrong, no way.

 

[1911ly]

There should be numbers stamped on the bearing and probably even the races. There are just a handful of bearing sizes for utility trailers (I use to sell trailers years ago. You can also ID them with a pair of dial calipers. Most likely any auto parts store should have the bearings. Always replace the races. And check in to buddy bearing caps.

If the brakes are electric do you have a brake controller installed? If so use a battery connection on the brake wire ad see if you hear a click in each hub. If not go over the wiring. If you hear a click and no brakes check things over when you have the hubs off. Probably need to adjust them or replace the shoes.

 

[BR8818]

If you want to save money and time running around looking for parts go to Waymire, Paul's trailer, or Midwest Brake.

 

[blackenedman]

We make alot of $ off of people putting to much grease in the hub. It will blow out the seal & we charge $90 an hour to clean the grease off the brakes or if it to bad, the shoes have to be replaced.
He is right about grease stopping crud and moisture, just don't go crazy.

Agreed. Not a fan of the bearing buddy, for this reason. With proper seal, and bearing service, bearing shouldn't need grease, or service, for around 10k miles, I believe.

I've been down that road of blown seal. Big mess, and creates unnecessary expense replacing brake shoes due to contamination.

 

[amboy49]

A recommendation for Northside Trailer. Located on SR 32 west of Westfield.