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Thread: Where would you hook up to this?

  1. #1
    Grandmaster phylodog's Avatar

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    Where would you hook up to this?

    So my lawn is rough, like craters on the moon rough, and in spite of the $800 suspension seat on my mower I still almost dislocate vertebrae on occasion while mowing. I've looked for over a year for something I could use to try to level it out and finally decided to build my own. I saw something like this on a Youtube video and it seemed to work well except it would flip over forward occasionally when it hit a decent size clump of dirt. He had attachment points along the top angle iron pieces which I think was part of the problem. I'd like to avoid that by hooking up to it lower, maybe the midpoint on the front length of C channel. I should be able to get 6 cement blocks on it for weight which will help as well. The front and back sections are 1/8"thick 2" C channel and the center section and brace pieces on top are 1/8" thick 2" angle iron.

    I need to space the two attachment points wide enough so it doesn't create too much stress across the width yet close enough that it'll drag straight and not want to wobble back and forth (hopefully). I'm thinking if I divide it into 3 equal length sections and put an attachment point at each end of the center section it should work as good as it can but I'm wrong on a pretty regular basis with this kind of thing so figured I'd ask before drilling any more holes in it. I can always experiment but I'd like to keep as few holes in it as possible.

    Should I also put another support piece of angle iron wherever I end up putting the attachment points to spread out the force across all three lateral sections?

    There's lots of ________ on here who don't fit your particular stereotype, smearing us with goofball sophistry is what is out of line. It just makes gunowners look like *******s.

    - CarmelHP

  2. #2
    Master

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    I'd stick chains on eyelets at each forward corner and then attach it to your draw bar with a piece of angle that can pivot.

    So... Fancy ASCII schematic (0s represent "spaces" where INGO wouldn't let me put them):

    00|00
    -------

    Put a chain on each end of the angle (---------) such that the bar can pivot about your draw bar (|) in the center.

    Then attach those chains () to the forward ends of your apparatus:

    ↓0000↓
    --------
    |0000|
    --------

    I've seen guys built pretty much exactly what you've got and that seems to be how most of them did it. They seem to want to track pretty straight that way too. I've also seen guys make "teeth" for them with nuts and bolts so they tear up the soil a bit as they go so they work a little more effectively. Basically I'm proposing you build a really mild grader box out of it. It's going to tear the hell out of your yard, but for it to work I think pretty much anything would.

  3. #3
    Grandmaster phylodog's Avatar

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    I've got a rear blade and a box blade with scarifier teeth. I'm not looking to tear up what's there, I will be using it to spread top soil over the existing turf. Thank you for the advice though.
    There's lots of ________ on here who don't fit your particular stereotype, smearing us with goofball sophistry is what is out of line. It just makes gunowners look like *******s.

    - CarmelHP

  4. #4
    Grandmaster Rookie's Avatar

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    I would attach the chains on the outside corners but I would extend the ends about four feet and add some weights. Something like a backwards U.

  5. #5
    Sharpshooter

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    Is it about 8'? With 1/8" I don't think I would go all the way to the corners, I would divide it in 1/2, then put it in the center of those halves. The chains to a pivoting bar is a good idea for turns. It's easy enough to change if it doesn't work.
    Never argue with stupid people.

  6. #6
    Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by phylodog View Post
    I've got a rear blade and a box blade with scarifier teeth. I'm not looking to tear up what's there, I will be using it to spread top soil over the existing turf. Thank you for the advice though.
    The plan is more clear now. I see guys use those things to bust up land before planting grass or bringing in driveway stone so I wasn't sure what you were aiming for.

    Same attachment system suggestion stands. As Jay said, easy enough to undo it if you don't like it. Chains at the 1/4 and 3/4 seem like a reasonable suggestion as well.

  7. #7
    Grandmaster phylodog's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxwelhse View Post
    I'd stick chains on eyelets at each forward corner and then attach it to your draw bar with a piece of angle that can pivot.

    So... Fancy ASCII schematic (0s represent "spaces" where INGO wouldn't let me put them):

    00|00
    -------

    Put a chain on each end of the angle (---------) such that the bar can pivot about your draw bar (|) in the center.

    Then attach those chains () to the forward ends of your apparatus:

    ↓0000↓
    --------
    |0000|
    --------

    I've seen guys built pretty much exactly what you've got and that seems to be how most of them did it. They seem to want to track pretty straight that way too. I've also seen guys make "teeth" for them with nuts and bolts so they tear up the soil a bit as they go so they work a little more effectively. Basically I'm proposing you build a really mild grader box out of it. It's going to tear the hell out of your yard, but for it to work I think pretty much anything would.
    Thanks again for this idea but I'm having a tough time picturing what you're describing. Is there anything out there already built like that I could search for a photo of?
    There's lots of ________ on here who don't fit your particular stereotype, smearing us with goofball sophistry is what is out of line. It just makes gunowners look like *******s.

    - CarmelHP

  8. #8
    Master

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    At some point I just need to learn to post pics here.

    What I'm suggesting is to set your draw bar up like a load lever, but it wouldn't need to be adjustable side-to-side. Just permanently fixed in the center about a single pivot. That way it can steer side-to-side and hopefully not get too bound up.

    Then run the chains down to the forward corners of your box, or as Jay suggested, perhaps the forward 1/4 and 3/4 positions.

  9. #9
    Grandmaster patience0830's Avatar

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    you could order a couple triaxs of dirt, push it around with the bucket and blade then rent a harley rake for a real perfessional lookin job. I've seen guys level a lawn with a triax of sand, a four wheeler with a skid chained to the back, and shovel and wheelbarrow for the gross movement of the media.
    Parkerizing lollipops since 1973.

  10. #10
    Grandmaster Rookie's Avatar

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    Another option we used to do way back when I worked on a golf course...

    Rent a plug aerator, plug the yard, spread sand and then roll it with a large roller. The fairways were smooth as glass. Best to do it when the ground is soft though.

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