Brake lines on a 2002 suburban

[Rookie]

For some reason, GM decided that using steel brake lines was a good idea. Now, I have to replace all of them. I've run into a problem that I am hoping someone can help me with. The rear line follows the frame rail, goes to the center of the vehicle, and then goes to a rubber line to the axle. My problem is the mount that connects the steel line to the rubber line is on top of a cross member and tucked up between the cross member and the body. I think my only option is to cut the line, cut the rubber line, and reroute the line to a more accessible area. Is this a good idea, or does someone have a better idea?

 

[churchmouse]

For some reason, GM decided that using steel brake lines was a good idea. Now, I have to replace all of them. I've run into a problem that I am hoping someone can help me with. The rear line follows the frame rail, goes to the center of the vehicle, and then goes to a rubber line to the axle. My problem is the mount that connects the steel line to the rubber line is on top of a cross member and tucked up between the cross member and the body. I think my only option is to cut the line, cut the rubber line, and reroute the line to a more accessible area. Is this a good idea, or does someone have a better idea?

On my 04 Sierra we found it easier to actually lift the body up so we could get into the areas we needed to get to and yes these lines will rust the hell away.

In your instance yes. Re-route it just make sure its supported and not interfering with anything that moves.

 

[Rookie]

That was my first thought. Unfortunately, this is the first body mount bolt that I tried to remove.



I figured it would be wise to stop while I'm ahead and try something else.

 

[ghuns]

For some reason, GM decided that using steel brake lines was a good idea. Now, I have to replace all of them. I've run into a problem that I am hoping someone can help me with. The rear line follows the frame rail, goes to the center of the vehicle, and then goes to a rubber line to the axle. My problem is the mount that connects the steel line to the rubber line is on top of a cross member and tucked up between the cross member and the body. I think my only option is to cut the line, cut the rubber line, and reroute the line to a more accessible area. Is this a good idea, or does someone have a better idea?

Usually where a steel line meets a rubber line there's a bracket. If you can see a screw from underneath side of the cross member that retains that bracket, drill it out.

 

[TangoFoxtrot]

I know its not cheap, if you plan on keeping and driving your money out of it, get stainless steel lines. Flush everything out and goto synthetic break fluid. Its worth it in long run.. just my opinion.

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[thunderchicken]

Easiest way for me to say this is to simply make sure sure all line connections are tight, sealed & bled and that the lines are secured. Most brake lines can be rerouted and secured with some wire loom clamps (p clamp) with a small bolt & nut or even a thread cutting bolt.
Trying to follow the factory routing is a PITA most of the time.

 

[Clay Pigeon]

Thats why good Zip Ties come in bags of 100..

 

[thunderchicken]

I have to disagree with Tango- stainless lines can be a serious PITA to get a good solid flare on if you have to cut and flare them. Besides odd are good the vehicle will be long gone before you have this problem again. Just keep the standard DOT3 fluid it calls for. A good 4whl bleed is wise but switching fluid isn't necessary..and if someone tops off the fluid when you have an oil change or trade it in etc it will prevent someone from being screwed

 

[patience0830]

On my 04 Sierra we found it easier to actually lift the body up so we could get into the areas we needed to get to and yes these lines will rust the hell away.

In your instance yes. Re-route it just make sure its supported and not interfering with anything that moves.

Yup. Factory cheats and puts them on B4 the body. Cheeky bastiges.

 

[Clay Pigeon]

I have to disagree with Tango- stainless lines can be a serious PITA to get a good solid flare on if you have to cut and flare them. Besides odd are good the vehicle will be long gone before you have this problem again. Just keep the standard DOT3 fluid it calls for. A good 4whl bleed is wise but switching fluid isn't necessary..and if someone tops off the fluid when you have an oil change or trade it in etc it will prevent someone from being screwed

Yep... Adding the wrong fluid can be hazardous to some rubber products in some older brake systems...

I thought you can buy prebent stainless kits?

 

[wingrider1800]

I've been using copper/nickel for the last couple of years with good results.

 

[churchmouse]

Yup. Factory cheats and puts them on B4 the body. Cheeky bastiges.

When we did my truck the anti-lock master unit is inside the frame just behind the drivers butt. The lines all came out the top of the unit. No way we could get to them easily and without cross threading a few. The body bolts were in fair shape so we raised it off the frame. Still took us all day.

 

[Rookie]

Fortunately, the abs unit was in the same location but facing forward instead of up. I used prebent stainless steel. It was helpful to remove the gas tank in order to run the rear line. Unfortunately, I managed to break a fitting on the vapor canister. Other than that, it wasn't to bad.

 

[Butch627]

I did the lines on my Suburban a few years ago offhand I am not sure if mine is an 03 or 04 but the routing is the same. I bought a kit of pre bent stainless lines and routing them was a nightmare. With the frame off it probably would have been a breeze. I didn't do anything special to replace the lines at the rear so you may need to step back and think of a different strategy. Be prepared for a nightmarish fuel pump and fuel line replacement within a couple of years.

 

[Dirtebiker]

I've been using copper/nickel for the last couple of years with good results.

The guy that just did mine used the copper-nickel. It sure is easy to shape!

 

[looper]

Take a good look at the fuel lines while your at it.

 

[TangoFoxtrot]

Yep... Adding the wrong fluid can be hazardous to some rubber products in some older brake systems...

I thought you can buy prebent stainless kits?

Thats what I did, I bought pre bent stainless for mine, I went ahead and did master, abs, front and rear calipers, thats why I just switched to synthetic.

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