Direct-thread is a pain in the ass!

[tbhausen]

Does anyone else, like me, feel you have to constantly check your hot can to keep it from coming loose while shooting direct-thread 1/2–28 mounted suppressors? Specifically, I'm referring to .22 rifles and pistols. I actually tightened down a hot Mask 22 on a Ruger 22/45 Mark IV Lite enough to unthread the epoxied barrel nut with the can recently, resulting in me having to send the pistol back for repair.

I have this problem with my Magnum Research rifle. The thread protector comes loose every time I shoot without a can no matter how much I tighten it, which is very annoying. It's only a matter of time until I lose it.

I know Dead Air and other manufacturers warn not to use anything between the suppressor and the firearm. Ruger supplies a part similar to what I am about to describe for use between the barrel and the thread protector on the 22/45's, but it is a poorly-made, inferior mild steel part compared to this stainless steel part. I purchased a package of these recently from McMaster Carr, and I wonder what you guys think of using them while shooting suppressed. They're only .009 inches thick, absolutely burr-free, and they flatten completely with even gentle tightening:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9714k35/=19fkpus

 

[DanVoils]

Does anyone else, like me, feel you have to constantly check your hot can to keep it from coming loose while shooting direct-thread 1/2–28 mounted suppressors? Specifically, I'm referring to .22 rifles and pistols. I actually tightened down a hot Mask 22 on a Ruger 22/45 Mark IV Lite enough to unthread the epoxied barrel nut with the can recently, resulting in me having to send the pistol back for repair.

I have this problem with my Magnum Research rifle. The thread protector comes loose every time I shoot without a can no matter how much I tighten it, which is very annoying. It's only a matter of time until I lose it.

I know Dead Air and other manufacturers warn not to use anything between the suppressor and the firearm. Ruger supplies a part similar to what I am about to describe for use between the barrel and the thread protector on the 22/45's, but it is a poorly-made, inferior mild steel part compared to this stainless steel part. I purchased a package of these recently from McMaster Carr, and I wonder what you guys think of using them while shooting suppressed. They're only .009 inches thick, absolutely burr-free, and they flatten completely with even gentle tightening:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#9714k35/=19fkpus

I had the same problem until I used a wave washer like the one you linked. Never had a problem since. At the price for the stainless ones I'll probably pick up a pack just to have on hand.

 

[Psode27]

That seems like a good idea. I am pretty much paranoid to shoot more than a mag without checking, and normally I'm glad I did. I think I'll pick up some wave washers and give it a shot. My answer was QD mounts, but for some stuff I hate to commit to a proprietary mount as I have multiple cans I like to use/compare. Maybe I can find some on amazon prime....

 

[tbhausen]

I hunted high and low--if you want to try this, I recommend you buy the ones I linked from McMaster-Carr (they sell to anyone, not just companies, and ship from Chicago so you get the stuff the next day even via Ground service). These are a high-quality part that won't make you feel like you're bastardizing your firearms.

 

[Hop]

I thought Ruger said to remove the included wave washer from the 22/45 lite when shooting suppressed.

Teflon tape has a pretty high melting point & s a common suggestion on Silencertalk. Another option would be a Nord-Lock washer. Those have opposing ramps that take more torque to unscrew than to tighten.

 

[Hop]

Working load on those wave washers is only 5.5 lbs. Enough to keep the 22/45 thread cap in place but probably not enough force to keep a suppressor attached.

I know people use Nords to secure turbocharger bolts.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=19g1ra8

I'm using Bellville washers on my car though which might be an option but I think those require a lot more torque to compress.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-disc-springs/=19g1tv4

 

[tbhausen]

That's 5.5 pounds well before the washer is completely flattened.

 

[rvb]

I find it to be an issue on new threads. once they have been used a few times and mated, it seems they want to back off less...
-rvb