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  1. #1
    Sharpshooter Ryninger's Avatar

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    Supressor gurus... a question

    I am getting ready to start the process on my first can. I had it narrowed down to a few choices, most likely to an Omega, Saker, or YHM Resonator... Then I got to thinking about the need to clean it. If it's primary purpose will be to shoot 300BLK regular and subsonic, would I be better suited getting a serviceable can to be able to clean it? It will also see 308 (subsonic and reg) and 30-06, but how many full power rounds will have to be sent through it to offset the subsonic and 300blk buildup?

    Thanks,
    R
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment.

  2. #2
    Grandmaster Rookie's Avatar

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    I wouldn't worry about it. Center fire is very clean compared to rim fire. My Optimus is user serviceable and, after a few thousand rounds, it was hardly worth the effort of taking it apart.

  3. #3
    Premium Case Lube
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    Donít shoot exposed cast lead bullets and youíll be fine. Generally, any crap that stays in there will get cooked by the temperature rifle cans get to. I would not worry once second about user serviceable for anything other than .22lr or maybe some other handgun. Iíve got prob 3000 rounds through my tirant 9mm. I still take it apart and clean it occasionally, but I bet if it were sealed it would see 20,000 rounds easily if I didnít shoot uncoated lead
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  4. #4
    Expert ROLEXrifleman's Avatar

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    You're already over thinking it.
    As stated above, as long as you aren't shooting exposed lead, even shooting subsonic rounds loaded with dirty pistol ammo wont be enough to clog a centerfire rifle can. I've shot tons of subs through a few of my .30 cans and have no issue with crud as verified by no weight gain. Unless your shooting 10,000 rounds of subs b4 blasting a few rounds of real ammo through it you're worrying for nothing. In the centerfire rifle can realm I want the most robust build I can get and that means welds, not threads.
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  5. #5
    Premium Case Lube
    BadBrassSauce.com's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by ROLEXrifleman View Post
    You're already over thinking it.
    As stated above, as long as you aren't shooting exposed lead, even shooting subsonic rounds loaded with dirty pistol ammo wont be enough to clog a centerfire rifle can. I've shot tons of subs through a few of my .30 cans and have no issue with crud as verified by no weight gain. Unless your shooting 10,000 rounds of subs b4 blasting a few rounds of real ammo through it you're worrying for nothing. In the centerfire rifle can realm I want the most robust build I can get and that means welds, not threads.
    Agreed. Beyond you donít ďneedĒ a serviceable can, you donít WANT one. Welded all day.
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  6. #6
    Master Beowulf's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by goodcat View Post
    Agreed. Beyond you donít ďneedĒ a serviceable can, you donít WANT one. Welded all day.
    This. When it comes to a rifle can, you want that thing as tough as possible to handle the pressure. If you want to "clean it", after you finish shooting subsonic .300 BLK, slap that puppy on an AR or AK and rapid fire your way through a mag or 2 of super sonic ammo. Nice and "clean" after that.
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  7. #7
    laf
    laf is offline
    Plinker

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    For what it's worth, I went YHM can because of their mounts. They have the widest selection of mounts for thread pitches. If you've got some euro threaded stuff or have weird projects in mind for thin profile barrels, it seems YHM has the most selection of thread pitches available for rifle cans. I'd also rather have a welded short and a separate welded long can than a single rifle can that has extra places to fail when you convert to the Kompact profile.

  8. #8
    Grandmaster Bfish's Avatar

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    As stated over and over you don't need to worry about cleaning it... I have one can that seems almost exclusively subs and it's not an issue. Also if you are only wanting to go with those three options my money would be on the Omega. I've shot all three with 300blk and the Omega to me was better than the other two. I did think the YHM had a nice tone though.

    Not to throw this at you but if you are mainly shooting subsonic stuff it may also be worth checking out some of the tubeless larger OD cans that are becoming more and more popular right now from places like Q, Sig, Dead Air and a few others. I know that if/when Dead Air releases what's been shown as the Nomax (bigger Nomad) I'll be buying one. Discrete Ballistics had a metering day with representatives from different companies and the numbers were amazing.

  9. #9
    Sharpshooter Ryninger's Avatar

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    [QUOTE=ROLEXrifleman;7953961]You're already over thinking it./QUOTE]

    You hit the nail on the head there!

    Thanks for the input guys! Gonna get one on order here in the next couple weeks!
    Good judgment comes from experience, and experience comes from bad judgment.

  10. #10
    Plinker

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    I run a fully welded AAC Cyclone on my 300 blackout. I love it and I have never cleaned it. My only regret is the weight. If I had to buy another I would get a titanium can. Maybe a Wilson, Thunder Beast, Gemtech, AAC. I prefer the fully welded design for the strength. I also have an AAC eco 9mm can. It is not advertised as a take apart can but I know it can be done. It would be hard to get the end caps off. Once again I have never cleaned it.

    My advise after buying the AAC Cyclone for my 300 blackout:

    1. Go with a fully welded can rated for 300 win mag or 300 RUM, even if you just intend to use it for 300 blackout.
    2. Bite the bullet and spring for titanium. Mine is Inconel and stainless and let me tell you it is heavy out on the end of that muzzle.

    Another thought, 300 blackout supposedly gets full powder burn in about 9 inches of barrel, so it should be pretty clean. If you were going to run a 308 SBR or something like that then that would be a pretty dirty setup. However for a 308 SBR I would think you would want a fully welded can for the strength. Always tradeoffs. Good luck with everything!

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