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*woot**woot*
- Thread starter Tryin'
- Start date
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grunt soldier
Master
congrats man , looks like a very nice knife. cant wait to see some in action shots.
also can't wait for mine to get here lol
also can't wait for mine to get here lol
LotsofGlocks
Master
Congrats 
tradertator
Grandmaster
looks like cubby did a nice job.
Pale Rider
Expert
What kind of steel and handle material, blade edge angle? Any pics of it laying flat and horizontal!?? it looks great!
the materials are as follows:
cpm154cm
green canvas micarta
stainless steel corby bolts
OD kydex for the sheath
edge angle:
i put convex edges on most of my knives. which means they are sharpened on a slack belt. for me (and this is my experience, your opinions may vary) the convex edges seem to last longer, and are a bit less likely to chip out (something i have never had happen). in the begining i sharpened everything on a sharpmaker. it took forever, and always ran the chance of skipping a finished blade off the stones, scratching the snot out of it.
i put a convex edge on like this:
rough it out at 120 grit, create a burr
skip up to 220 grit, reestablish the burr
strop the burr off on an old leather belt
create a burr with a 320 grit belt
strop the burr off, same as before
440 grit, burr
leather belt to strop
600 grit
stropped to a finish.
this makes a very durable edge that i have had GREAT success with. other sharpening options are available if asked for, but this is my standard "cutting knife" sharpening. thick, prying knives usually stop at 220 grit edge...
cpm154cm
green canvas micarta
stainless steel corby bolts
OD kydex for the sheath
edge angle:
i put convex edges on most of my knives. which means they are sharpened on a slack belt. for me (and this is my experience, your opinions may vary) the convex edges seem to last longer, and are a bit less likely to chip out (something i have never had happen). in the begining i sharpened everything on a sharpmaker. it took forever, and always ran the chance of skipping a finished blade off the stones, scratching the snot out of it.
i put a convex edge on like this:
rough it out at 120 grit, create a burr
skip up to 220 grit, reestablish the burr
strop the burr off on an old leather belt
create a burr with a 320 grit belt
strop the burr off, same as before
440 grit, burr
leather belt to strop
600 grit
stropped to a finish.
this makes a very durable edge that i have had GREAT success with. other sharpening options are available if asked for, but this is my standard "cutting knife" sharpening. thick, prying knives usually stop at 220 grit edge...
Yeah. . . What he said!
I took it out hanging treestands on Saturday; wanted to see how far I could push it. Even as light as it is, it performed with aplomb. Small saplings were (somewhat) tediously hacked up, whittled, and split. Having managed to dull the edge a bit, I gave it a shot on the ole' diamond stone and was back in business for fuzz-stick creation and small mammal carving. . .
Speaking of the edge, what kind of hone may I expect from this steel, cubby? I can get it (hair) snagging sharp, but not "popping" sharp. . .Probably my stone/ technique, but just throwing it out there. . .
VERY pleased so far. . . !
Oh, quicky pic for the request:
P.S. Cubby, no joke about the Kydex grit holder.
I took it out hanging treestands on Saturday; wanted to see how far I could push it. Even as light as it is, it performed with aplomb. Small saplings were (somewhat) tediously hacked up, whittled, and split. Having managed to dull the edge a bit, I gave it a shot on the ole' diamond stone and was back in business for fuzz-stick creation and small mammal carving. . .
Speaking of the edge, what kind of hone may I expect from this steel, cubby? I can get it (hair) snagging sharp, but not "popping" sharp. . .Probably my stone/ technique, but just throwing it out there. . .
VERY pleased so far. . . !
Oh, quicky pic for the request:
P.S. Cubby, no joke about the Kydex grit holder.
Last edited:
i would strop before sharpening. as in, strop it after use, not sharpen. usually thats all it takes! when it needs sharpening, take a sharpmaker to is on which ever angle you would like. i would use the more acute angle......
if you use just the brown stones on a sharpmaker you get a toothy edge, not a polished edge. the stropping can slo be skipped if you want toothy. the strop lines up the micro edges and makes the cut more effortless, amd if you don;t line up the micro edge you get tiny teeth.
if you chop with it, let the knife do all the work. chopping with a light weight knife is not alot of fun.... but if you let the knife do it all (as in don't push through the object, let the knife make contact and the continued motion of the knife do all the work. loosen up a bit on the grip as the knife is about to make contact. don't loosen enough to lose the knife, but enough you dont shock your wrist) it is not too bad....
if you use just the brown stones on a sharpmaker you get a toothy edge, not a polished edge. the stropping can slo be skipped if you want toothy. the strop lines up the micro edges and makes the cut more effortless, amd if you don;t line up the micro edge you get tiny teeth.
if you chop with it, let the knife do all the work. chopping with a light weight knife is not alot of fun.... but if you let the knife do it all (as in don't push through the object, let the knife make contact and the continued motion of the knife do all the work. loosen up a bit on the grip as the knife is about to make contact. don't loosen enough to lose the knife, but enough you dont shock your wrist) it is not too bad....
