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Thread: INGunOwners FAQs (sticky)

  1. #11
    Cogito, ergo porto.
    Bill of Rights's Avatar

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    About Reputation or "rep"

    What is reputation? How do you get one? How do you know if you have gotten one?
    When you find someone else's post you like (maybe for giving good information, maybe it made you laugh, maybe you just felt like giving positive rep), you can click on the symbol on the post and leave a comment with your agreement. At some point, you will be told you have reached the limit of how many you may give in a 24-hour period, or you may also be told that you have to "spread it around" before you may rep a specific member again. This is to prevent what's called "rep whoring" or rep trading. (that's asking to be repped or offering to trade one for another.) There is no policy against rep "whoring" or against trades, but some see it as devaluing the benefit to the community of having that system to tell how much weight to give someone's opinion.

    It shows up below the person's name who wrote the post, either with , , , , , or and , , , symbols, unless they've disabled reputation, which requires you be a Site Supporter. If it's disabled, under your name or in the member list will be a .

    As for your own, you'll see that up under the "Welcome" text on the upper right of your INGO window, just below where it says, "Private Messages".

    You can also go back and read up to the most recent 30 comments you've gotten by clicking on up top.

    Do note that in the UserCP, you might see a next to a rep comment. This means that you have gotten rep from someone who is new or whose own rep is not high enough to give you any points either way, and amounts to neutral, neither positive nor negative. The amount of rep you give at a time is a function of your time on INGO, how many posts you've made, and what your own reputation is, and may have something to do with either portents told in the entrails of a dead bird or with the price of tea in China as well

    Each or is worth 100 points (negative and positive, respectively), each or is 200 (after the first one), again, negative and positive, respectively, and each is 300 (again, after the first). The is positive only. You can have up to fifteen total "pip"s, then you get a or and the whole thing starts all over again. Lather, rinse, repeat for and as well. You may earn up to five of each badge/star/whatever
    Therefore, a full rep bar would show


    It's probably fair to expect you'd be banned long before you ever got close to your first , though, since if what you're saying is THAT unpopular, it's probably been personally insulting to some members as well, and that, among other things, gets into the realm of warnings, infractions, and temporary and permanent bans... which is another thing altogether.

    Confused yet?

    The line above that was struck out was a guess proven to be incorrect. It seems that some of our members see negative rep and decide to see how low they can make it go, sometimes for no reason.

    There is also rumor of a "black badge" . There is no such thing. No "rainbow badge" either. (The ones seen in this post were 'shopped. )

    The ability to add negative rep to a post has been disabled for members who are not INGO staff. People, especially new members, were being made to feel unwelcome simply because they had different opinions, and rather than have people run off, we'd prefer they be helpfully shown a differing point of view.
    If someone is mistaken, help them. If they are irritating you, ignore them. If they are violating site rules, including trolling, click the little symbol and report the post(s), and let the mod staff deal with the problem.

    We want INGO to be a place people enjoy being, not a place people feel alienated. Thanks for your help.

    If any questions, please PM a member of the mod team.
    Last edited by Scutter01; 12-27-2011 at 09:18.

  2. #12
    Grandmaster Scutter01's Avatar

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    Shipping a Firearm

    This FAQ is currently under construction and may not be complete or accurate. Please see the following thread for discussion regarding this FAQ:

    The term "firearm" in the context of this FAQ refers to the serialized portion (such as the frame or receiver). By "serialized" and "un-serialized", we mean the part that's considered a "gun", not just any part that happens to have a serial number. In other words, whatever part would require a Form 4473 if you were to purchase it from an FFL. Everything else can be considered "machine parts" or whatever other nomenclature you prefer. As with the rest of this FAQ, this is not legal advice, we are not lawyers, etc.


    • What must I do to ship a pistol or a rifle to another Indiana resident?

    Rifles may be shipped via USPS. Pistols may not be shipped via USPS, but must be shipped via Common Carrier (e.g. UPS, FedEx, etc.). In either case, an FFL is not required to be involved in this process. For USPS, Priority Mail with Delivery Confirmation is recommended but not required. You may also select "Signature Required" and purchase insurance as well, if you like.
    • What must I do to ship a pistol or a rifle to a resident of another state?

    Same as above, but the destination must be an FFL in that resident's home state. Note that you can ship to yourself in another state without having an FFL involved.
    • What must I do to ship a pistol or a rifle to an FFL (such as back to the manufacturer, or to an FFL in another state)?

    You may ship directly to an FFL, following the rules as above.
    • Do these rules cover a whole gun? What if I want to ship just the serialized receiver? How about just the un-serialized frame/barrel/stock/etc.?

    If you're just shipping a receiver, the rules above apply. If you're just shipping, say, an un-serialized barrel, it ships like any other package.

    • Must ammunition follow the rules listed above, or are there special provisions?

    Loaded Ammunition:

    Best advice: ship ammo UPS. You can NOT send ammo USPS. Must be declared by DOT regulations. Shipping carton will get a sticker. You can not ship ammo larger than .50 caliber or 8 Gauge.
    How to Ship Ammunition or Ammo

    Shipping powder and primers:

    Incurs a HazMat fee (~$24 for up to 50 pounds); powder and primers can be mixed.

    Shipping brass cases, bullets, or other non-hazardous components:

    Brass cases and bullets are not regulated. For bullets, flat rate box @ USPS with adequate inner pack is the cheapest route.

    • Can I ship anything gun-related via USPS?

    Yes. You may ship rifles via USPS either in-state or out-of-state. You may also ship parts.
    • What is a "common carrier" and which ones can I use?

    A common carrier is a shipper other than the USPS. UPS and FedEx are the two used most often. They will both ship firearms. UPS and FedEx both require you to use Overnight Delivery for firearms shipments. Note that you are required to declare that you are shipping a firearm when shipping via Common Carrier.

    • Which one is the best/cheapest/easiest to work with?
    • Do all "satellite" offices accept firearms or must I ship them through a "hub" office?

    Satellite offices are often privately-owned (e.g. Mailboxes Etc., The UPS Store, and so on). They are not required to ship your firearm but many of them will with no issues.
    • How can I find out which satellite offices will accept my firearm?

    The easiest way is to call them or stop by. Some people have reported that it can vary even from employee to employee. It's best to ask the store manager or owner directly. Try to get his/her name if possible in case the counter clerk disagrees.

    • About how much can I expect to pay to ship my firearm?

    1. For USPS, a small Priority package (such as for just a receiver) with delivery confirmation is around $10, depending on weight. A full-length rifle will be more expensive. If you use the USPS-provided boxes, it can be cheaper.
    2. For UPS/FedEx, Overnight delivery can be in the $50-$100 range. If you are shipping to the manufacturer for warranty service, try to get them to send you a shipping label so it's on their dime and not yours.
    Tips and tricks:

    • Package but do not seal the package. You will need to declare that you are shipping a firearm and the shipper has the right to inspect the contents. You may wish to disassemble it or field-strip it to make it evident that it's unloaded without having to handle it.
    • Do not put anything on the outside of the package that indicates the contents. Package as discreetly as possible, including abbreviating the addressee: e.g. "S&W" instead of "Smith & Wesson". Do not allow the shipper to place any stickers or notes on the outside of the package indicating the contents.
    • The ATF FAQ regarding shipping firearms has additional information: ATF Online - Firearms - Frequently Asked Questions - Unlicensed Persons
    • FFLs may ship pistols via USPS. If you have a good relationship with your local FFL, it may be cheaper to do a standard transfer through him and have him ship it via USPS for you. Otherwise, you may have to pay $100+ to ship 2nd-Day via common carrier.
    Last edited by Scutter01; 06-05-2012 at 22:46.

  3. #13
    Grandmaster Scutter01's Avatar

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    All About NFA

    What is NFA?

    NFA refers to the National Firearms Act of 1934, and covers regulation of items such as full-auto machine guns, suppressors (silencers), short-barreled rifles, etc.

    Which NFA items are legal in Indiana?

    MG's, or Machine guns, are legal.
    SBS's, or Short Barreled Shotguns, are legal.
    SBR's, or Short Barreled Rifles, are legal.
    Suppressors, or silencers, are legal.
    DD's, or Destructive Devices, are legal, though explosive DD's are not legal.
    AOW's, or Any Other Weapons, are legal.
    SBS's, or Short Barreled Shotguns, are not legal.

    How do I acquire NFA items?
    There is no blanket "license" to own NFA items for non-dealer individuals. For each item that you want to purchase, you must pay the Federal Government a one-time $200 transfer tax. This happens when you go to transfer a machine gun or suppressor or any other NFA item from a dealer, or if in-state, an individual. You submit the application for transfer (in duplicate) along with $200 to the NFA division of the BATFE and upon approval, you can take possession of your item. Along with your submission of the appropriate transfer form, you must also submit a Citizenship Certification, a set of your fingerprints (taken by a qualifying agency, and in duplicate) and the transfer form must be signed by your Chief Local Law Enforcement Officer. It sounds complicated, but rest assured that it is not. In most jurisdictions in Indiana, obtaining the CLEO sign-off is as easy as walking into the police station and asking to see the Chief/Sheriff, however there is a more formalized process in Indianapolis that takes more on the order of a couple weeks to complete.

    What, exactly, is the $200.00 that is paid to the ATF? Is it a tax on the purchase of the item? Is it a transfer fee? Or is it a license fee?
    The $200 (or $5, in the case of an AOW) is a tax on the transfer of Title II firearms, in the case of transfer (Form 4 used to apply for transfers)

    Or, it is a tax on the manufacturing of Title II firearms, if you're making one (Form 1 used to apply for making)

    If it's a tax on the transfer or manufacturing then why doesn't a dealer have to pay it on each item?
    The dealer has opted to pay the tax as a "Special Occupations Tax" (or SOT). This means he is in the business of dealing with these items, has the proper manufacturing or dealer's FFLs and he is permitted to pay an annual tax to transfer or manufacture as many Title II firearms as he would like.

    Do I have to pay the tax every year?
    No. It's a one-time tax paid at the time of transfer (or construction).

    What exactly is a Machine gun?
    Sounds like a dumb question, but it is not.

    Section 5845(b) of the NFA defines “machine gun” as
    “any weapon which shoots, is designed to shoot, or can be readily restored to shoot,
    automatically more than one shot, without manual reloading, by a single function of the
    trigger. The term shall also include the frame or receiver of any such weapon, any part
    designed and intended solely and exclusively, or combination of parts designed and
    intended, for use in converting a weapon into a machine gun, and any combination of
    parts from which a machine gun can be assembled
    This means that the part that causes an otherwise semi-auto firearm to become a machine gun is itself the 'machine gun'. The popular examples of this being the Drop In Auto Sear and the Lightning Link for the AR series of rifles. These items by themselves are just hunks of metal, but by definition, they are a machine gun because of what they are designed to do. The nuts and bolts of it are that if you pull the trigger one time and more than one round goes off, you have yourself a machine gun.

    While machine guns are legal to own, only machine guns manufactured and registered before May 19, 1986 are legal. Every machine gun that is legal for a non-dealer person to possess was manufactured 20+ years ago. This is why the price is so high. What there is is all there is. There can never be any new ones. Nope, not even if you build your own (see below).

    But I see new machine guns on Youtube all the time!
    Well, obviously machine guns can still be built or our military and police would not have any, they just cannot be owned by private individuals. The new ones you see are either post-1986-ban dealer samples (or "post samples") owned by SOTs or they are owned by individuals outside the jurisdiction of the United States. No machine gun built after 1986 is transferable to a private citizen.

    What exactly is a Short-Barreled Rifle (SBR)?
    By definition a short barreled rifle, or SBR, is a rifle (which is defined as a shoulder-fired, rifled bore firearm) with a barrel length of less than 16", or an overall length of less than 26". In measuring barrel length you do it from the closed breech to the muzzle. On a folding stock weapon you measure with the stock extended, provided the stock is not readily detachable, and the weapon is meant to be fired from the shoulder. The rules are pretty cut-and-dry as to the definition of a SBR. If the overall length with stock is less than 26" you have an SBR. If the barrel itself is less than 16" you have an SBR. You can still buy or manufacture SBR's. You can buy one by filing a Form 4 or you can make one yourself by filing a Form 1 (we'll get to that later).

    What is a Suppressor (silencer)?
    18 U.S.C. 921(a)(24)
    The terms “firearm silencer” and “firearm muffler” mean any device for silencing,
    muffling, or diminishing the report of a portable firearm, including any combination
    of parts, designed or redesigned, and intended for use in assembling or fabricating
    a firearm silencer or firearm muffler, and any part intended only for use in such
    assembly or fabrication.
    Pretty specific here. If it makes your gun quieter, it is a silencer. At least one report that I have seen lists the reason for adding them to the NFA was for fear of poaching during the depression years, not for fear of them being used in other street crime. There is no "cutoff date" for legal suppressors. Suppressors are still being manufactured, and you can own a brand-spankin'-new one if you wish. In fact, suppressor technology is still evolving and there are units out there that are very efficient (read: quiet).

    What is a Destructive Device?
    A destructive device (DD) can be two basic categories of things. It can be an explosive, incendiary or poison gas weapon, like a bomb or grenade. It can also be a firearm with a bore over 1/2" with exceptions for sporting shotguns, among other things. I call the second category large bore destructive devices. As a general rule only this second category is commercially available. Some obvious items I can think of are 37mm and 40mm launchers, and the Striker-12 & Streetsweeper shotguns. This category does contain some of the most subjective language in the NFA. The Striker-12 and Streetsweepers were ruled to be DD's and thus part of the NFA not because of any measurable characteristic, but because they were "declared" not to be suitable for any sporting purpose. The Strikers were banned from importation and the ones already owned were ordered to be registered (tax free at the time) or destroyed. The language used in the definition of a DD in the United States Code says: Destructive device.--The term "destructive device" means * * * any type of weapon by whatever name known which will, or which may be readily converted to, expel a projectile by the action of an explosive or other propellant, the barrel or barrels of which have a bore of more than one-half inch in diameter, except a shotgun or shotgun shell which the Secretary or his delegate finds is generally recognized as particularly suitable for sporting purposes; ..." This is where subjectivity comes into play. If the Sec. doesn't like it, then it is no longer a shotgun, but a DD.

    What is a Short Barreled Shotgun?
    Let's examine the definition first. A Short Barreled Shotgun, or SBS, is defined as any shotgun (which is defined as a shoulder fired (read "has a stock" this is important), smooth bore firearm) with a barrel of less than 18"or an overall length of less than 26", or any weapon made from a shotgun falling into the same length parameters. There is always some confusion as to whether a weapon is a SBS or an Any Other Weapon (AOW). We'll get to that later, but if your weapon has a smooth bore, a shoulder stock, and has a barrel less than 18" or an overall length of less than 26", then you have an SBS, and those are not legal in Indiana.

    What is an Any Other Weapon (AOW)?
    Any other weapons (AOW's) are a number of things; smooth bore pistols, any pistol with more than one grip, gadget type guns (cane gun, pen gun) and shoulder fired weapons with both rifled and smooth bore barrels between 12inches and 18inches, that must be manually reloaded. This category always causes some confusion. I'll provide some examples to try and clarify things. A weapon is an AOW and not an SBS if the weapon never had any kind of stock attached. If a virgin (shotgun) receiver was delivered without a stock, has a barrel length of less than 18inches and registered with the NFA, then it is an AOW. As soon as you ad a stock, it becomes a SBS. This is a bad thing, because the AOW's transfer with only a $5 tax. Uncle sam will want his $195 if you want to put a shoulder stock on. You cannot go from an AOW to an SBS without re-registering. You can, however, remove a stock from a registered SBS and put a pistol-grip on without penalty, it's still an SBS. The important part is how the receiver started it's life.**I'll add more info to this one as time permits.**

    Because I own NFA items, Can ATF search my home?
    No they cannot. Individuals who legally own NFA items are NOT subject to random inspections from ATF. This is a huge misconception of the NFA laws. Agents from ATF cannot conduct any sort of checks of your premises without a warrant. This, of course, does not apply to licensed dealers, however.

    Which form do I need to use?
    There are many forms to be used when dealing in firearms. NFA owners need be familiar with only five. They are Forms 1,3,4 & 5, as well as the Declaration of Citizenship.

    • Form 1: A Form 1 is an application to make and register a firearm. If you wanted to, for example, make your AR15 into a Short Barreled Rifle, you would need to file a Form 1. Even though your AR15 is already a complete rifle, you are "making" it into an NFA item, thus the application to "make and register" it. Any time you "make" an existing firearm into an NFA firearm, you would use this form. Form 1's require a $200 tax.

    • Form 3: A Form 3 is a dealer-to-dealer transfer of an NFA firearm. Lets say I wanted to buy a suppressor from a dealer in another state. I would have to get that dealer to transfer the suppressor to a dealer in my state before I could have it transferred to me. Form 3's usually get processed in a matter of days or a week, not nearly as long as transfers to non-dealer individuals. Form 3's do not require any tax be paid.

    • Form 4: A Form 4 is an application for tax-paid transfer of a firearm. When you go to buy an NFA item, whether it be from a dealer or an individual in your state, you use a Form 4. If you go to your local dealer and decide you want to buy a suppressor, you must first file a Form 4 in order to have that suppressor transferred from your dealer to you. Form 4's require a $200 tax for all NFA items, except AOW's. If the item being transferred is an AOW, the tax is $5.

    • Form 5: A Form 5 is an application for tax-exempt transfer of a firearm. Form 5's are most commonly used to will a firearm upon the death of the owner. If your Grandfather passes-on and leaves you his Thompson SMG, you must file a Form 5 before you can take possession of the firearm. Form 5's do not require any tax be paid.

    • Declaration of Citizenship: This is a form that certifies you as an American citizen or otherwise legally allowed to be in the country. Officially called the Certification of Compliance with 18 U.S.C. 922(g)(5)(B), ATF form 5330.20

    I don't know how to get started with my first NFA item. Where do I start?

    See this thread for a first-time NFA buyer's experience, detailing the entire process from start to finish, of buying a suppressor.

    Can I build my own suppressor, SBR, machine gun, etc.?

    In most cases, the answer is Yes, provided you submit the proper Form 1 to the ATF for approval PRIOR TO CONSTRUCTION. Machine guns, on the other hand, are a No Go. No new (civilian-ownable) machine guns may be produced after May 19, 1986, thanks to the Hughes Amendment to the Firearm Owners Protection Act. The details of the process for approving and building your own NFA are outside the scope of this FAQ.
    Last edited by MontereyC6; 10-06-2016 at 19:21. Reason: Added build-your-own

  4. #14
    Grandmaster Scutter01's Avatar

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    I wanna get my FFL so I can buy guns cheeep!

    From this thread:

    I'm tired of going to gun stores and I want my own FFL so that I can have guns shipped direct to my house and pay wholesale costs. How do I get my FFL?

    (Quoting from the thread linked above): This topic comes up quite frequently and as an individual who, up until December 2010, had their (01) FFL and ran my business out of my home let me see if I can shed some light onto the subject and help as many people out as I can.

    Things To Think about:

    First and foremost there are a few things one must think about prior to making the decision to move forward with the FFL application. These things include but are not limited to:
    Why do you want/need an FFL?

    • Many folks have the idea (myself included in the beginning) that with an FFL you’ll be able to purchase firearms for yourself at a significant discount over what you could purchase them for in a big box store (GM) or even a firearms shop (name your favorite one). The reality, however, is that your savings are only around 1% - 2%. Why? There are a multitude of reasons for this:

    • Many firearms distributors will not work with non-stocking dealers or dealers without a store-front (these two factors need to be proven to the distributors in order to become a customer of theirs)

    • Those distributors that you can work with will not provide you the same discount (based upon volume that you're purchasing) that they will for stocking dealers and dealers that they’ve worked with for many years. (i.e. your dealer price is closer to street prices than the big box stores or local firearms shops

    • Most distributors do flat rate shipping no matter how many firearms you’re purchasing and most ship overnight or two-day which costs more. So now you must add your already higher dealer price with the shipping price and you’re nearly at the street price for the firearm.

    • NOT ALL FIREARMS ARE AVAILABLE... As a non-stocking dealer and one that doesn't place a significant number of orders, you will not be high on the priority list for what is called RESERVED, which means that there are very few and they are being held for high priority customers only and as such it is hard to actually get your hands on one. (example right now would be the new Kimber 9mm, Sig P238, etc)

    • Many folks think that they also get away without paying sales tax but this is also a myth. Dealers who decide to take inventory out for their own personal use pay use-tax which, in the state of Indiana, is 7%. This means once again that you’re paying virtually the same as if you purchased the firearm from your local shop or online.

    • I will no longer have to pay FFL fees for firearms that I have transferred in and it’s convenient because they can ship them directly to me.

    • Although this may be convenient, remember that you’re still paying a use tax (or you should be) on each of these firearms as they are being taken out of your inventory for your personal use. In addition, this cannot be your only reason for opening a firearms business (i.e. FFL) as the BATFE requires certify that you are applying with the intent of making a profit. In other words, actually running a business and not just to enhance your own collection.
    Running a business out of your home:

    • Another aspect that many don’t think about is the fact that they are running a firearms business out of their home and the implications that result from doing this.

    • First and foremost, the county/township zoning board must approve of such a business within your home/development, etc. (As of July 1, 2011, IN law no longer allows discrimination by type of business. If they’d allow a bicycle repair shop in your garage, they have to allow you to have a gun-related business also. Ref: SEA 292, 2011)

    • You MUST have hours of operation! This is on the FFL application and must be filled out. These hours of operation are used by the BATFE in order to make surprise visits to your business (i.e. home) in order to check on your documentation and business practices.

    • This is a business and if you’re in it to make a profit (BATFE requirement) then you will have customers coming to your place of business (i.e. Home) whom you do not know in order to purchase firearms/accessories who could potentially be denied/declined by the FBI background check and become disgruntled.

    • If you advertise your business at all, there is now a general awareness that new, unused firearms exist within your place of business (i.e home) and there may be a greater risk of theft and home invasion (especially when you’re not there – on vacation etc)

    • Although not required by the BATFE, the installation of both a video surveillance system and additional firearms safes should be taken into consideration and added to your start-up budget
    Running of a Business

    • Many folks are not used to or are unprepared to actually run a legal business and as such should remember the following points which are needed to do so successfully.

    • Accounting – as with any business, your accounting will be crucial in order to be successful. Accounting will be vital in order to successfully complete your business income taxes and file/pay your yearly sales tax with the state.

    • Paperwork – probably more important than with most businesses is the fact that paperwork relating to firearms sales/transfers are vitally important and the lack of paperwork or the incorrect filling out of this paperwork can get your business shut down and put lives in danger.

    • All 4473 documents must be retained for the life of your business and must be filled out correctly each and every time. If a customer doesn’t fill out a question (that they needed to) and you complete the sale and later find out that this person committed a crime with it, it can and would come back to you as the dealer who sold it to them with improper paperwork

    • Advertising – To be successful, you’re going to need to advertise and honestly that can get quite expensive. In addition what you’ll find is that many folks already have their “favorite” gun shop so you need to find out what you’re going to do that is “better” for the customer than what their shop already does. This is not easy on a part-time basis…
    Application Process:

    • After you’ve looked into the Why and have addressed all of the items (there are probably more that I have missed but it’s a good starting point) and have decided to still move forward with the process, the next step will be to begin the application process. This too has a multitude of steps:

    • Fill out and complete the FFL application (if you’ve completed other government forms before – income taxes etc – this will be easy just be sure to read it carefully)

    • Fill out and complete the Certification of Compliance

    • Go to your local Sheriff’s office or Police Department and attain finger prints after your finger print cards arrive.

    • Get a Certified check for $300.00 to send in as the application/license fee

    • Mail all of the necessary items to the BATFE (according to the information on the application)
    While waiting to hear from the ATF, you’ll need to do the following: (most of which have some kind of fee associated with them)

    • Register for and obtain a federal business Tax ID

    • Register your business with the state (Sales Tax) as a registered retail merchant

    • Go to your local Sheriff’s department and apply for your license to sell handguns

    • Go to your local zoning board to gain approval of your business from a zoning perspective
    BATFE Interview:

    • If all is going well with your application, the BATFE will schedule an interview with you at the desired place of business (i.e. your home) this interview consists of the following:

    • Review of the actual facility

    • Questions pertaining to business practices (firearm storage, surveillance, etc)

    • Training on the needed paperwork and the plethora of legal ramifications if it’s not done appropriately

    • Overview of your application
    The Waiting Game and Financial Impact:

    A waiting game now begins for your license to be approved and arrive.
    The average time that this entire application process takes (from beginning to end) is approximately 4-6 months and your initial financial out-of-pocket expenses (before ever purchasing a firearm) will run between $400 and $4,000+ (depending on the size of safe, type of surveillance equipment, license fees, LLC Fees, etc)
    Last edited by Scutter01; 08-05-2011 at 12:13. Reason: Spelling, grammar, etc.

  5. #15
    Grandmaster Scutter01's Avatar

    User Info Menu

    INGO would like to announce that it's moving away from the old Buyer/Seller rating system of +1/-1 thread postings in the following forums, the following forums will be closed to new posts, they will be available for searching/referencing.

    The Good, Bad & Ugly:
    Private Sales
    Local Gun Shops
    Online Merchants

    There is one simple rule to follow when using the Itrader feedback/rating system at INGO, abuse of the system will result in a permanent ban.

    The Itrader rating system links are only view able in the following forums:
    Classifieds: Sell, Buy and Trade here!:
    Handguns - Pistols & Revolvers
    Long Guns - Rifles & Shotguns
    Class III (NFA) Suppressors, Machine Guns SBS/SBRs etc
    Parts and Accessories
    Ammunition and Reloading Supplies
    Want to Buy
    Non-Firearms Related

    You can follow this simple guide to check/view a buyer or sellers ratings:

    1. Clicking the "Check Feedback or Feedback Score" links in a post will allow you to view a Buyer/Sellers Feedback/Rating on INGO.

    2. Upon viewing the Seller/Buyers Feedback page, you can simply click the Submit Feedback For AnthonyG link noted below in the image:

    3. When submitting your feedback for the INGO user, please be sure to complete all the fields, the "Deal URL" is mandatory, but i've re-coded the Itrader system to automatically grab the Deal URL for you, so there is no need to copy & paste it in the field.

    4. After submitting the Feedback for the INGO user, you will be taken back to the INGO users Feedback page, the results are instant & view able by all users, as noted in the last comment box, any comments added to this box, is view able by the Seller, Buyer & Staff only, it is a required field that you need to fill in, you can use this field to help resolve a bad deal.

    5. You can simply click the following link in a post & go directly to the submit page, without reviewing a INGO users Feedback.

    How do I leave feedback if the person didn't post in my WTS thread?
    1. Go to their profile page and click on their iTrader tab
    2. Click the "View Complete Feedbacks for" link
    3. Click "Submit Feedback For".
    4. Note that you'll have to manually fill in the URL for the original sale.

    Last edited by Scutter01; 07-21-2011 at 14:31.

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