Thoughts on cleaning revolvers & Super QGC

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  • Gadgetmonster

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    8   0   0
    Feb 2, 2013
    946
    28
    Southport area
    I have been experimenting on cleaning and lubricating my old guns since buying my first bottle of Super QGC at Bradis gun shop a couple weeks ago. Most all of you folks have been cleaning guns way before me so please correct me if you take exception to anything I say. Can’t hurt this Noob’s feelings, I’m still learning. Here is what I do… I wear purple Nitrile Exam Gloves as I work and lay everything out on a clean micro fiber cloth. Double check to be positive the firearm is not loaded. I only have Smith and Wesson revolvers so some of this may not apply. Clean inside the barrel and cylinder with a brass rod and bronze brush if it needs it using Hoppe’s #9 bore cleaner - then give them a nice swipe with a saturated patch. Next, Super QGC says it contains mineral spirits. So I have been using mineral spirits on the first thorough cleaning of my new-old guns. A gallon is $8 at Wal-Mart and may be enough for a lifetime of gun cleanings. (I must say here to us Noobs, do not open the side cover on your gun unless you really believe you have the ability to understand what you are looking at. Inside you will find one of the most beautiful mechanisms you will ever see… and one of the most complicated. So read up before you attempt it and for heavens sake do not ever stick a screwdriver inside the hollow area of the gun and pry up on the side cover) Using a pump oil can, gently squirt clean mineral spirits inside the disassembled gun. Flushing and light brushing removes old oil, dirt and microscopic shavings. I let that flow into a closable used oil container from Harbor Freight. It is tabletop size so flush away. It gets collected in the container instead of on a rag or tabletop.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/waste-oil-storage-container-97608.html

    I have read that someguys use non-chlorine brake cleaner on their guns. I know that stuff cleans brakes well but it is harsh and is the dickens on your lungs and skin. I have used mineral spirits to clean dirty assemblies for decades and I know it cuts grease and oil well. So after the gun is all cleaned I blow it out with a can of compressed air. Then inspect it all for anything unusual. If it looks OK then re-assemble the mechanism using Lucas High Performance Semi-Synthetic Assembly lube.
    http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?catid=9&iid=291&loc=show

    This lubricant says it is excellent for long-term storage so I make sure all critical moving parts get coated. I use a plastic pointed probe to help distribute this lube everywhere it needs to go.

    Then look for other moving assemblies that I may have not disassembled like the pivot joint on my top break .38 S&W. Lube these areas with a more freely flowing lube called Lucas Gun Oil.
    http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=27&catid=9&loc=show
    Both Lucas productsare available at Auto Zone.

    At that point the gun is pretty oily all over so after confirming it is back together properly I wipe the gun, without the grips, down good. Then spray the outside well with SuperQGC and wipe it down again. Super QGS is on the shelf at Bradis and Beech Grove Gun shops. I do like the Super QGS because after you wipe it down and you touch it, it is not“oily” and it leaves no fingerprints - but the gun is still protected. For wiping down I use Scott rags in a pop-up box. They are much like a nice shop rag but leave very little lint behind. Then saturate another patch and give the bore and cylinder one last swipe/treatment of Hoppe’s. Then another spraytreatment on the outside of the gun with Super QGC and wipe it down one last time. Then wipe down the grips real good and install them.

    Then I study and admire the old gun for a while and wonder what stories it could tell… then dry fire it a few times and note how sweet the action is and then just appreciate the craftsmanship that was poured into making the firearm so long ago. Then the old six-shooter goes into a clean sock for safekeeping inthe safe… until I ogle it again or take it to the range. How about you guys…what do you guys do?
     

    Speedgelb986S

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Jan 20, 2013
    77
    6
    Brownsburg
    Sounds like a thorough method for cleaning antique guns. I have no idea what the long-term effects of mineral spirits on steel might be, though.

    Personally, I would never advise anyone who isn't a gunsmith to open the side cover on a revolver, ever, period. If a person feels the need to have the inner workings of his revolver cleaned (which is probably necessary every hundred years or so), he should pay a gunsmith to do it.

    I've been shooting and cleaning non-antique firearms for over 20 years, and the list of every chemical I have ever used in the process is very short: Hoppe's #9 powder solvent; CLP; RemOil, Eezox, and Mobil 1 0W30. Out of those, the ones I still use are Hoppe's, Eezox (just until my current bottle is empty), and Mobil 1.
     

    Gadgetmonster

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    8   0   0
    Feb 2, 2013
    946
    28
    Southport area
    Not opening the side cover sounds like good advice. For me, learning what makes these guns work is a large part of why I like them. How do you give the innerworkings of your gun lubrication?
     
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