Prepping A Firearm For Rattle Can Job

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  • NVG

    Marksman
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    Jul 28, 2014
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    I am looking to possibly do a rattle can paint job on a truck gun (AR). Who has done this? Did you prep gun by spraying gun down with carb cleaner? Brake clean-regular or non chlorinated? Contact cleaner? Is there any cleaner that is a complete no-no as in it will soften plastic parts? Is there any specific paint that seems to bond/hold up better? I don't expect this to be a professional, long lasting finish. Just a decent camo job that's easy to touch up as needed. Any and all help is much appreciated.
    Mods-if this should be elsewhere, feel free to move and accept my apologies.
    NVG
     

    Ballistix

    Shooter
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    Dec 17, 2016
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    From my understanding... you are required to have a FFL to paint a firearm.
    I could be wrong and I'm sure someone will be sure to correct me if I am.

    Reading the ATF website states that painting, engraving, machining, etc. requires a FFL.
    I was asked to do some engraving on a firearm and was informed of this information.
     

    Double T

    Grandmaster
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    Aug 5, 2011
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    Huntington
    From my understanding... you are required to have a FFL to paint a firearm.
    I could be wrong and I'm sure someone will be sure to correct me if I am.

    Reading the ATF website states that painting, engraving, machining, etc. requires a FFL.
    I was asked to do some engraving on a firearm and was informed of this information.
    You are correct, if you do so as a business. You can do whatever the **** you want to your own guns, so long as it isn't chopping a barrel below 16" and adding a fun switch.


    THE best thing I can say about painting any metal, is that prep work is key. Scuffing up the finish will give it something to "bite" into. Degrease the gun completely. Probably wouldn't hurt to hit it lightly with some primer either before painting. I'd probably hit it with some clear, and then rough wet sand to remove the shine.

    You can do what you want, just know that if you skimp on the prep work it won't last very long.
     

    warriorbob

    Sharpshooter
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    Feb 6, 2011
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    From my understanding... you are required to have a FFL to paint a firearm.
    I could be wrong and I'm sure someone will be sure to correct me if I am.

    Reading the ATF website states that painting, engraving, machining, etc. requires a FFL.
    I was asked to do some engraving on a firearm and was informed of this information.
    Wow..... um no. Only if your taking in other people's firearms for profit. To the op, I used neither brand break cleaner and doused it. After it dried I applied 2 or 3 base coats and then added my camo pattern.
     

    flatlander

    Master
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    May 30, 2009
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    Noblesville
    From my understanding... you are required to have a FFL to paint a firearm.
    I could be wrong and I'm sure someone will be sure to correct me if I am.

    Reading the ATF website states that painting, engraving, machining, etc. requires a FFL.
    I was asked to do some engraving on a firearm and was informed of this information.

    You absolutely DO NOT need an ffl to paint a firearm.
    If you are going to change the serial numbers by engraving that is another subject. It would also depend on what you're maching.

    OP- Painting Your Carbine- from the Book of Pat | Lightfighter Tactical Forum
    I believe this thread is in depth enough to answer all/ any questions.

    Bob
     

    Ballistix

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    Whatever. I said I wasn't sure and just because someone posted that it's ok on the internet...it MUST be true. Even without credentials.

    I'll just stick to making grips.
     
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    Nov 7, 2011
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    I would use Carburetor cleaner. Wear rubber gloves. Dampen a disposable rag. Then wipe the parts. Let dry, it will quickly.
    Wipe again with another clean damp rag.
    Carburetor cleaner will only attack the plastic if let soaking. IF the plastic is high polished. Let the cleaner do some light puckering. That will let the paint adhere better.
    Make sure the rags air out completely before storage or pile up in the garbage. Spontaneous combustion.
     

    PGRChaplain

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    Jan 13, 2011
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    Use a Scotch Brite™ green Pad to toughen up the surface. Making sure no oil is on the surface is #1. On the metal parts use Lacquer Thinner or Acetone. On all the plastic, Dawn dish detergent and hot water. Make sure to rinse several tines. Prep is Everything!
     

    Bfish

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    Looks like you've got some good advice... A buddy of mine didn't do anything really. He just painted it. It did wear in a few places, but I think it made it look better honestly.
     

    RustyHornet

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    Jun 29, 2012
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    Use a Scotch Brite™ green Pad to toughen up the surface. Making sure no oil is on the surface is #1. On the metal parts use Lacquer Thinner or Acetone. On all the plastic, Dawn dish detergent and hot water. Make sure to rinse several tines. Prep is Everything!
    Best advice I've seen yet. This is what I'd do. :yesway:
     

    Saminator67

    Plinker
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    Apr 15, 2017
    29
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    Mooresville
    I used Scotch Brite pads as well, brake cleaner, and started with a good coat of self etching primer. It has seemed to hold well so far....goodo thing about rattle can you can always repaint.
     
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