First cleaning

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  • wcd

    Grandmaster
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    Dec 2, 2011
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    Off the Grid In Tennessee
    After months I am getting out to our range. I have two new additions one is a Rock Island and I sure can not figure out what they shipped it in?

    So I am wondering if I should use ATF to clean it? I checked out some Remington cleaner but it warned against getting the cleaner on actions etc. I am not a fan of aerosols for cleaners. Any Suggestion's?

    Thanks
     

    SMiller

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    Jan 15, 2009
    3,813
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    Hamilton Co.
    If it makes you feel any better I bought a new Glock 26 the other day and it is the dirtiest gun I have ever seen, looks like they left the slide off for a month at the factory.
     

    CraigAPS

    Expert
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    Jun 26, 2016
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    Muncie
    I always use Hoppe's No. 9 on my RIA. It seems to do the trick. I'm big fan of the version I got from Dick's. I can't recall the name. It's still Hoppe's, but it's like some "super" version. It comes in a black pump spray bottle. I don't notice much difference in the formulas. I just really like the bottle. Makes it easy to put on without the risk of contaminating an entire jar of regular No. 9.
     
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    Nov 7, 2011
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    what are you attempting to clean?
    If you are attempting to clean oil and grease.
    You can use Carburetor cleaner.
    power residue just use Hoppe wet on a cloth.
     

    DoggyDaddy

    Grandmaster
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    73   0   1
    Aug 18, 2011
    102,066
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    Southside Indy
    I used to swear by Hoppe's #9 but I found some new stuff from Blue Line Gun Care that I really like. It doesn't smell as bad as the Hoppe's. I use their cleaner and their oil now.

    Blue Line Gun Care - Engineered To Win. Synthetic Gun Oil

    Smell as BAD??

    BLASPHEMER.jpg~c200


    :):
     

    singlesix

    Grandmaster
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    May 13, 2008
    7,197
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    Indianapolis, In
    After months I am getting out to our range. I have two new additions one is a Rock Island and I sure can not figure out what they shipped it in?
    Paper box or Plastic box, or at least that's the two options I am aware of.

    Kroil, will clean metal parts, lifts the built up deposits off the metal.
     
    Last edited:

    JAL

    Master
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    May 14, 2017
    2,161
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    Indiana
    Hoppe's #9 . . .
    "Nothing like the smell of Hoppe's in the morning!"
    (with apologies to Francis Ford Coppola)

    It will remove the Crudmium plating firearm manufacturers use to keep their wares from becoming Corrodium plated during storage pending sale to end users.

    Be certain to disassemble the firing pin and its spring from the slide group and clean it along with the firing pin tunnel (pipe cleaners are perfect for it). Requires removal of the firing pin stop and be careful when you do so to keep your thumb or hand over it as the spring is under tension and will propel the firing pin, and it, across the room sending you on a treasure hunt to find them. Do not oil them afterward. They don't need it. Purpose here is to keep the firing pin from gumming up in the tunnel and becoming sluggish in returning to its rest position. Not a phenomenon that will emerge immediately, but typically after a few hundred rounds and not in all, but only a few. Occurred with mine after about 300 rounds and phenomenon was slide not returning into battery when cycling as the firing pin stop slide part way down. Took me a couple minutes to realize what the stoppage was when it first occurred. Cleaning it when new and then occasionally thereafter prevents this.

    You can pull out the extractor and clean it at the same time. Mine took a little work to pull out as it fit tight. Once I got it started it came right out and went back in without requiring much effort. Ensure the hook on the breech end clears the edge of the hole as you pull it out. You can push on it a little if you wish, but use a wood dowel, not a metal dowel or punch.

    Put a very light bit of gun oil on the slide and frame rails, the inside of the barrel bushing, and around the upper and lower lugs, and on the barrel link. If you have a full length guide rod that's the same length as the barrel, it shouldn't need any lubrication other than perhaps wiping it down with a patch damp with oil, if that much. The object is to put a little light lube on the rapidly sliding parts, especially when they're new, so that they polish each other. I've never used any lube in the magazine well, or in the trigger or hammer mechanisms.

    John
     
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