Optics question

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • thunderchicken

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Feb 26, 2010
    6,435
    113
    Indianapolis
    When installing a scope or red dot type optic, how tight should the screws be troqued to on the rings? Likewise how tight should the screws be that hold the rings to the gun (or rail)?
    Everyone I have ever asked has just said to use loctite and just be careful not to strip the threads or warp the scope housing.
    Someone has to have a better answer
     

    seedubs1

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    24   0   0
    Jan 17, 2013
    4,623
    48
    Consult manufacturer specification. Typically, scope manufacturers as well as ring and base manufacturers have specs and installation instructions.
     

    throttletony

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    Jul 11, 2011
    3,630
    38
    nearby
    Consult manufacturer specification. Typically, scope manufacturers as well as ring and base manufacturers have specs and installation instructions.

    EDITED to add: I'll leave this up here as a lesson in my ignorance to help me and others :) Keep reading, but you can essentially ignore my answer. Better answers are given below.
    ------------------------------
    Original text: This is exactly right. They'll often have the torque/ft-lbs listed.
    As a general rule - with the same material (if ALL steel rings, base, scope, or ALL Aluminum, etc) then there's a bit less concern. When you start cranking down steel on aluminum is when you can run into more problems. --- especially look out for steel screws in aluminum threads :)

    I've always just done a quick-n-dirty "strong" tightening job and never had any long term problems. Loc-tite is a great idea.

    Like most gun things, it's easy to overthink this. Things just need to be tight and square.
     
    Last edited:

    Hop

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    16   0   0
    Jan 21, 2008
    5,084
    83
    Indy
    Don't use lb/ft on scope rings it's normally lb/inch.

    I bought a scope for a 10/22 and noticed some odd reticle "movement" after each shot. I went back and forth with the manufacturer and finally gave in and bought a gunsmith torque wrench. My "torque the rings by feel" was pretty far off and when I used the wrench it resolved the reticle problem.
     

    bwframe

    Loneranger
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    93   0   0
    Feb 11, 2008
    38,170
    113
    Btown Rural
    Vortex Optics - Tactical 30 mm Ring Medium

    Vortex.ring.torque.jpg


    Another reference:

    Rifle Screw Torque Settings Guidelines - PrecisionRifleBlog.com

    I would always verify, never trust one source online. Nothing worse than feeling threads let go...:xmad:
     

    thunderchicken

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Feb 26, 2010
    6,435
    113
    Indianapolis
    I knew there had to be a torque spec range but wasn't sure. Back in spring my brother mounted a scope on his .22 and when he shot it over the weekend the scope stared slipping in the rings. He used the little L shaped torx driver that came with the rings and has the screws cranked down but it still slipped. Dude at the range told him to drill out the screw holes and put small bolts and nuts on the rings to increase the clamping force. He knew better than to listen, but it just made me curious how othere were doing it. I always just run them down with a short handle 1/4" ratchet using some finesse and have never had an issue.
     

    LarryC

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Jun 18, 2012
    2,418
    63
    Frankfort
    Having reached the age when my failing eyes make scopes far more valuable then they were a few years ago, I purchased a Wheeler scope mounting kit. While somewhat expensive (about $105 from Amazon) it contains everything you need to level, check alignment, locktite, hone mountings etc. and includes a good quality torque screwdriver. It does have some recommended torque specs of the base mounting and upper clamps, depending on screw size, but does recommend using manufacturers specs if available. As I have added scopes to 5 ~ 6 rifles lately and have some more to do, I found the kit well worth the money.
     

    natdscott

    User Unknown
    Trainer Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Jul 20, 2015
    2,797
    113
    .
    Lots of discussion here..

    It's 15 in/lbs, and is never to exceed 18 in/lbs. That's a very good general rule, and if the rings are bearing correctly, 20-25 in/lbs is entirely unneeded/may be damaging. If the scope rings are NOT bearing properly, then that needs to be FIXED regardless of torque setting.

    -Nate
     

    bwframe

    Loneranger
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    93   0   0
    Feb 11, 2008
    38,170
    113
    Btown Rural
    Vortex Optics - Tactical 30 mm Ring Medium

    Vortex.ring.torque.jpg


    Another reference:

    Rifle Screw Torque Settings Guidelines - PrecisionRifleBlog.com

    I would always verify, never trust one source online. Nothing worse than feeling threads let go...:xmad:


    Just ran into this tonight (thanks Allen!) mounting a Vortex scope in a LaRue QD mount.

    Scope came in wrapped up in specs/warning NOT to tighten rings beyond 18 inch pounds. LaRue's spec for the mount rings is 30 inch pounds. :dunno:

    I verified what others were doing about this here:
    https://www.ar15.com/forums/industry/-/219-284315/?

    ...and tightened to ~18#. Blue locktite for a bit of insurance.

    Quick tips:
    I have the Wheeler level/level thingy's. They worked this time kinda. Would have liked to have had a bigger, more solid surface to attach the base to. The other time I used this system, there was not enough room to get the magnet on any flat surface to level. Not enough room to get the base unit under the scope. I must not have my scopes high enough above the bore. :rolleyes:

    I always use feeler gage trick to parallel the scope with flat surface under it. I believe that was an AA Optics tip posted in another thread.
     
    Top Bottom