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  1. #21

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    The non-chlorinated blue can brake cleaner from Walmart has about the exact same contents as the $8 a can gun scrubber and it is $2. Do not use on plastic or wood. Great on metal parts. Switched to a 50/50 blend of Marvels Mystery Oils and Kroil. Tried this after housing Hoppe's and was surprised how much more came out.

  2. #22
    Sharpshooter Trapper Jim's Avatar

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    Butchs Bore Shine and Break Free
    "See you on the Range"

  3. #23
    Expert abnk's Avatar

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    Where firearms?

    I use CLP. I suspect the bottle that I have had for almost 20 years will outlast me.
    "Do not overthink it, gentlemen. It's only a gunfight, not an IRS tax audit." - Louis Awerbuck

  4. #24
    Master STEEL CORE's Avatar

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    Me and WD.

  5. #25
    Expert MrSmitty's Avatar

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    Hoppes, and CLP.......
    Bushido is all very well in it's way, but it is no match for a 30-06.......Jeff Cooper

  6. #26
    Master Gabriel's Avatar

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    For guns with wood stocks I use CLP or Hoppes #9.

    For my ARs or anything else that are pretty much all metal I use brake cleaner.
    Medium speed. Moderate drag.

  7. #27
    Sharpshooter LCSOSgt11's Avatar

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    I use Butch's Bore Shine. It has a bit of ammonia in it, to tackle copper fouling. Works well for me. If you have serious copper fouling, I have used Sweet's 7.62 solvent. Be forewarned though, Sweet's is loaded with ammonia. Use in a very well ventilated area, or outside, or use SCBA to breathe.
    "May God protect those when in mortal combat, remember FRONT SIGHT, PRESS.

  8. #28

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    I have been using guerilla for a few years. THE CLP works very well. A friends wife was terrible allergies and he can clean indoors without causing any type reaction.

  9. #29

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    Liberal tears

  10. #30

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    Hoppes - original
    CLP- on AR
    If I have to battle any rust speckles from being out in wet weather or on a carry gun I use Rem oil and either a solid copper penny or 0000 steel wool then rub on Flitz with a soft rag and I always wipe down anything blued with a light coat of Rem oil before it goes in the safe

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