Refinishing oil soaked wood grip panels, suggestions please.

[SAILORGOLF46]

I recently aquired a Ruger Gp100 that has the stock rubber grips with wood panel inserts. It is 30 plus years old, and the wood panels are very dark from years of oil either from cleaning or from use. Any suggestion on how to lighten these up?
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[Bigtanker]

Larry Potterfield of Midway USA did a segment on TV about refinishing an old rifle stock. He soaked the wood in acetone. Then oiled it. Let me see if I can find a video.

 

[Bigtanker]

Can't believe I found it that quick. EDIT: That ain't the one. Let me look again.

Found the correct one this time. Give it a watch.

[video=youtube_share;Eb7WQTbXUlU]http://youtu.be/Eb7WQTbXUlU[/video]

 

[Hookeye]

Potterfield vids should have sub titles ( turn sound off ).

 

[Bigtanker]

Come on man. He's awesome!!!

He's like Mr. Rogers building guns.

 

[reno]

This is not advice, but what I have done. Are the grips checkered? I've not done this on any checkered stock. Years ago I purchased a Garand. The wood was stained and had a lot of oil in it.

I mixed a product called "Whiting" I have no idea if it is still available. But I made a paste of that and used the replacement for carbon tet. Forget what that is called now. This was described in some old gunsmithing books I had. But you need to heat the stock with a heat lamp. This way the heat allows the liquid to move into the stock. When you apply the paste put the heat lamp back on the area you are working. It rather boils the oil and grease out of the wood. When the gunk boils out it goes into the whiting so it does not soak back into the wood and that turns rather brown. Then it is scraped off.
I guess you could use a toothbrush on checkering but the risk is still there to damage the checkering.
It worked on the Garand stock, no guarantees and you are on your own. This stuff is flamable and do not inhale it.

I would not try this on anything other than just wood. Not sure how it reacts to the rubber grips

 

[MRockwell]

I mixed a product called "Whiting"
This stuff is flamable and do not inhale it.

I would not try this on anything other than just wood. Not sure how it reacts to the rubber grips

Did a google search and found this: https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...strippers/old-fashioned-whiting-prod1133.aspx

As a cabinetmaker/custom woodworker, I found this product interesting. I do all my own finishing, so it is always nice to learn new tricks.

The description says to mix with "methanol or TCE, acetone, or toluene". This would pose a problem with the rubber on the grips, because acetone will damage, if not outright destroy, the rubber. When I spray lacquer, sometimes I mask off with regular masking tape. Not sure if that would work with an acetone-based product. I use acetone as an example because it is easiest to acquire off-the-shelf.

And one last word of advise: USE PROTECTIVE GEAR! Nitrile gloves and a respirator at the least. The solvents used are not good for you.

 

[dbrier]

Another option is just buy new ones. The OEM ones aren't expensive and aren't glued in. They come right out.
There are a ton of options if you want upgrade or personalize.
https://www.altamontco.com/pistol-grips/ruger/gp100/

 

[patience0830]

This is not advice, but what I have done. Are the grips checkered? I've not done this on any checkered stock. Years ago I purchased a Garand. The wood was stained and had a lot of oil in it.

I mixed a product called "Whiting" I have no idea if it is still available. But I made a paste of that and used the replacement for carbon tet. Forget what that is called now. This was described in some old gunsmithing books I had. But you need to heat the stock with a heat lamp. This way the heat allows the liquid to move into the stock. When you apply the paste put the heat lamp back on the area you are working. It rather boils the oil and grease out of the wood. When the gunk boils out it goes into the whiting so it does not soak back into the wood and that turns rather brown. Then it is scraped off.
I guess you could use a toothbrush on checkering but the risk is still there to damage the checkering.
It worked on the Garand stock, no guarantees and you are on your own. This stuff is flamable and do not inhale it.

I would not try this on anything other than just wood. Not sure how it reacts to the rubber grips

I did this to get the SAE30 out of the stock on my grandfathers groundhog rifle/truck gun. Old Marlin looks a lot better these days.

 

[patience0830]

This is not advice, but what I have done. Are the grips checkered? I've not done this on any checkered stock. Years ago I purchased a Garand. The wood was stained and had a lot of oil in it.

I mixed a product called "Whiting" I have no idea if it is still available. But I made a paste of that and used the replacement for carbon tet. Forget what that is called now. This was described in some old gunsmithing books I had. But you need to heat the stock with a heat lamp. This way the heat allows the liquid to move into the stock. When you apply the paste put the heat lamp back on the area you are working. It rather boils the oil and grease out of the wood. When the gunk boils out it goes into the whiting so it does not soak back into the wood and that turns rather brown. Then it is scraped off.
I guess you could use a toothbrush on checkering but the risk is still there to damage the checkering.
It worked on the Garand stock, no guarantees and you are on your own. This stuff is flamable and do not inhale it.

I would not try this on anything other than just wood. Not sure how it reacts to the rubber grips

I missed the part about the rubber. Replacement is probably the best option with that.

 

[SAILORGOLF46]

Thanks to all who replied. I did soak in Acetone for two days and that removed enough oil to see the grain again. And yes buying new panels was option two for me, but had two try this easy fix first. Thanks again, the answers are always on INGO!