Things to look for in old ATV

[87iroc]

I am starting to think about picking up an old utility 4 wheeler to leave at my brothers new house. He has 11 acres. Nothing big enough to warrant something 'fast'...but I was thinking an old utility of some sort. Like a Honda Fourman<?> or other old 'brute' 4 wheeler.

Anyone point me to any sites with buyers guides, tips on how to critique it when you're looking at it? I'm not hugely concerned if it runs...as I'm ok with tinkering with it with my daughter...but I don't want to buy a basket case that takes 2-3k to get it running again.

Thanks,

 

[bobjones223]

 

[nate77]

2wd's are much cheaper than 4wd's, I bought my 2001 Honda Rancher about 5 years ago, for $1100, and it has been perfectly reliable, and even being 2wd it eats mud.

 

[Nitro]

Craigslist and Facebook sale pages will be your best friend. Your best friend for parts is https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/ They have everything parts wise. Super fast shipping, awesome info on there. Good Luck hunting!! Things to look for.... See how many hours are on it. Check for an leaks, weird noises, dry rot on tires, linkage movement (make sure nothing is clunking around on suspension). Ask how often then did oil changes. Maintenance is key!

 

[kawtech87]

At the risk of sounding like a smart ass, the best thing to look for in a used four wheeler,.... is a new four wheeler. As someone with very much experience in this field, trust me you will be better off in the long run.

A Kawasaki Prairie 360 is about the best/easiest to work on mid-sized four wheeler on the market but Kawasaki stopped making new ones in about 2014 or so in favor of the Brute Force 300 which is a pile of crap by comparison and not even made by Kawasaki.

You can find a decent used Prairie 360 for less than 3k, they are 4wd and even if they are beat up a bit they will run forever with a little TLC.

 

[Leadeye]

I'll say buy Honda, my 95 350 4x4 still gets me everywhere I want to go on rugged terrain.

 

[churchmouse]

At the risk of sounding like a smart ass, the best thing to look for in a used four wheeler,.... is a new four wheeler. As someone with very much experience in this field, trust me you will be better off in the long run.

A Kawasaki Prairie 360 is about the best/easiest to work on mid-sized four wheeler on the market but Kawasaki stopped making new ones in about 2014 or so in favor of the Brute Force 300 which is a pile of crap by comparison and not even made by Kawasaki.

You can find a decent used Prairie 360 for less than 3k, they are 4wd and even if they are beat up a bit they will run forever with a little TLC.

I was hopping you would chime in on this.

 

[BiscuitsandGravy]

IMO- If its for your daughter, find one that doesn't have a manual clutch. We had a choice of a Honda w/ clutch vs. Polaris w/o clutch. We have ran the Polaris for years with no issues. It has a F/R shifter, footwells in place of pegs. Shaft drive w/ polaris belt/torque conv. Its been great for running around yard/woods, pulling a sled, pulling a small yard wagon. No regrets. Picked it up locally years ago when a guys daughters grew up.

YMMV...

 

[Fordtough25]

I've always had good luck with Honda but most of the main companies were not too bad with tlc. Check the oil, air filter, look behind the wheels at the hubs to see how dirty it is. I'm rocking an '07 Honda and it's a blast, but advice already given is true. Look over used ones real close, and buy newer if possible.

 

[bocefus78]

If you like to work on stuff, you can get them cheap.
I got a 2001 4x4 Polaris off cl that needed a battery, choke cable, tires were useable but old, and some tie rod ends for $1000.

It's a 2 stroke which is why I think people didn't want to buy it. I love two stroke anything personally.
I'm still using the bald tires, and the thing runs like it was new for about 1200$.

 

[ws6duramax]

My dad has a 1 owner 2001 Honda rubicon he is thinking about letting go of . Pm me if interested

 

[yetti462]

I have a 01 450 foreman that is still going strong. Just changed the 16yr old battery. I have not been easy on it, get a Honda. Parts are easy to find for them and they go, go, go.

 

[kawtech87]

OP another thing to consider is that most dealers will not take a machine in for service that is over 10 years old. Those who champion Honda, they are by far the worst offenders in this regard. Expect to wait until the off season if they even take it in.

Look for older farmers who are wanting to change to side by sides. Avoid anything owned or primarily used by teens or young adults because you can bet it's destroyed, even if it looks OK on the outside they will have hidden damage you never even considered. Remember there is a utility class in ATV GNCC racing. Hit up local auctions like Ted Evert's that has a buy back guarantee. If you find one you think is a good deal drive it, shift it, feel if it pulls like it should, it shouldn't stumble or feel weak, it should start reliably with little choke from dead cold, if it doesn't it might need carb or valve adjustment. Look at the fluids, brake fluid should be golden amber color, both levers should feel tight with smooth building resistance all the way through the pull, the foot brake should feel similar. Coolant if water cooled should be bright green or purple bepending on brand used, oil should not be milky or smell like fuel, if it is way over full of oil walk away. Usually means is knocks and they filled it with oil until it quit. Check cable adjustment, proper adjustment in a cable is approximately the width of a quarter. Check tires if the tread is shiny looking or hard or have knobbys missing they are worn out. Tie rods, A-arms, ball joints CV shafts and bearings NEVER get changed on an ATV by anyone no matter what they tell you. Looks for signs of being submerged, silt and sand in odd places like under the seat, in the air box, carburator or exhaust, electronics can be tricky and work for a while then quit while least expected especially if they have been under water. If there is silt in the air box walk away from it. While running look at the exhaust. It should be almost invisible. If it is thick and blueish it's burning oil, if it is white and sweet smelling it's burning coolant. If you find one that is has none of these issues your probably looking at a brand new ATV at a dealer somewhere.

Hope that helps

 

[INPatriot]

OP another thing to consider is that most dealers will not take a machine in for service that is over 10 years old. Those who champion Honda, they are by far the worst offenders in this regard. Expect to wait until the off season if they even take it in.

Look for older farmers who are wanting to change to side by sides. Avoid anything owned or primarily used by teens or young adults because you can bet it's destroyed, even if it looks OK on the outside they will have hidden damage you never even considered. Remember there is a utility class in ATV GNCC racing. Hit up local auctions like Ted Evert's that has a buy back guarantee. If you find one you think is a good deal drive it, shift it, feel if it pulls like it should, it shouldn't stumble or feel weak, it should start reliably with little choke from dead cold, if it doesn't it might need carb or valve adjustment. Look at the fluids, brake fluid should be golden amber color, both levers should feel tight with smooth building resistance all the way through the pull, the foot brake should feel similar. Coolant if water cooled should be bright green or purple bepending on brand used, oil should not be milky or smell like fuel, if it is way over full of oil walk away. Usually means is knocks and they filled it with oil until it quit. Check cable adjustment, proper adjustment in a cable is approximately the width of a quarter. Check tires if the tread is shiny looking or hard or have knobbys missing they are worn out. Tie rods, A-arms, ball joints CV shafts and bearings NEVER get changed on an ATV by anyone no matter what they tell you. Looks for signs of being submerged, silt and sand in odd places like under the seat, in the air box, carburator or exhaust, electronics can be tricky and work for a while then quit while least expected especially if they have been under water. If there is silt in the air box walk away from it. While running look at the exhaust. It should be almost invisible. If it is thick and blueish it's burning oil, if it is white and sweet smelling it's burning coolant. If you find one that is has none of these issues your probably looking at a brand new ATV at a dealer somewhere.

Hope that helps

I tip my hat Sir. Your expertise and stewardship in fortifying those of us that do not know is appreciated!

Regards.

 

[BiscuitsandGravy]

I'm so old- I had a Honda ATC 250R 3 wheeler. That sucker would climb walls it had so much power. I wish it was sitting in my folks' barn under a tarp. But alas, my father sold it way back when I was in college.



Back to the original OP question. Sorry for the 'senior moment' story telling.

 

[indiucky]

I picked up this 2004 Kawasaki 550 Mule for $1500 and am pleased as punch...It only had 327 hours on it...I need to get some new tires eventually but she runs like a champ....

 

[bobjones223]

I picked up this 2004 Kawasaki 550 Mule for $1500 and am pleased as punch...It only had 327 hours on it...I need to get some new tires eventually but she runs like a champ....

.....that was a SCORE!!

You find another one like it for the same price let me know!

 

[churchmouse]

OP another thing to consider is that most dealers will not take a machine in for service that is over 10 years old. Those who champion Honda, they are by far the worst offenders in this regard. Expect to wait until the off season if they even take it in.

Look for older farmers who are wanting to change to side by sides. Avoid anything owned or primarily used by teens or young adults because you can bet it's destroyed, even if it looks OK on the outside they will have hidden damage you never even considered. Remember there is a utility class in ATV GNCC racing. Hit up local auctions like Ted Evert's that has a buy back guarantee. If you find one you think is a good deal drive it, shift it, feel if it pulls like it should, it shouldn't stumble or feel weak, it should start reliably with little choke from dead cold, if it doesn't it might need carb or valve adjustment. Look at the fluids, brake fluid should be golden amber color, both levers should feel tight with smooth building resistance all the way through the pull, the foot brake should feel similar. Coolant if water cooled should be bright green or purple bepending on brand used, oil should not be milky or smell like fuel, if it is way over full of oil walk away. Usually means is knocks and they filled it with oil until it quit. Check cable adjustment, proper adjustment in a cable is approximately the width of a quarter. Check tires if the tread is shiny looking or hard or have knobbys missing they are worn out. Tie rods, A-arms, ball joints CV shafts and bearings NEVER get changed on an ATV by anyone no matter what they tell you. Looks for signs of being submerged, silt and sand in odd places like under the seat, in the air box, carburator or exhaust, electronics can be tricky and work for a while then quit while least expected especially if they have been under water. If there is silt in the air box walk away from it. While running look at the exhaust. It should be almost invisible. If it is thick and blueish it's burning oil, if it is white and sweet smelling it's burning coolant. If you find one that is has none of these issues your probably looking at a brand new ATV at a dealer somewhere.

Hope that helps

Again my friend.....
I know this young man in the real. I have seen examples of his work. His knowledge is very deep. I would trust him with about anything mechanical.

 

[kawtech87]

I was hopping you would chime in on this.

I tip my hat Sir. Your expertise and stewardship in fortifying those of us that do not know is appreciated!

Regards.

Again my friend.....
I know this young man in the real. I have seen examples of his work. His knowledge is very deep. I would trust him with about anything mechanical.

The votes of confidence are much appreciated, thanks guys!

OP I am a full time powersports mechanic, (there are a few others here on INGO as well but I won't out them since they haven't chimed in on this thread) if you have any questions feel free to PM me.

 

[kawtech87]

I picked up this 2004 Kawasaki 550 Mule for $1500 and am pleased as punch...It only had 327 hours on it...I need to get some new tires eventually but she runs like a champ....

Funky quirk about the small Mules. They are VERY sensitive to being over filled with oil. They will bog and drag like a heavy load is on them. And I'm not talking a full quart over I mean just barely above the full line and they will do this. Keep it in the middle of the hash marks and it will be fine. Also (this applys to all Mules) the four wheel drive is like an old truck with lock outs, meant to be used as needed in low speed then disengaged, not engaged 24/7 and driven daily at full speed. You will hear a load and sudden BANG and feel a hard jerk then keep moving forward. That is a throw over mechanism meant to keep the drive shaft from over running the gearing in the front differential and causing damage. This trow over mechanism however will not save it forever as it is more a last ditch effort to get the driver to slow down or disengage 4wd than anything.

Other than that those old 500 series Mules are great machines. I've seen some with thousands of hours on them and still running strong and they are governed differently than the newer 610 models so they are considerably faster than the new ones despite sharing essentially the same engine.

Oh and the drive belt is a bear to change. You have to remove the entire rear driver side suspension so just be aware of that when it needs replaced.