Small game is still a pretty general term. Can you narrow it down a bit? Just like guns, hunting dogs can be tools, and different breeds will be better suited to different types of hunts.
My Dad used to train Brittanys and compete with them at field trials. They're awesome pointers which is great for a bird dog, but they'd be ill suited for a squirell, rabbit, coon or hog hunt.
I love Brittanys since I grew up around them. They're loyal, smart and highly trainable. But if you don't plan to hunt pheasant or quail you probably want to look at a different breed.
Why would Brittany's not do well on quail? I could see them being a little too close working for pheasant but they would be nigh on to perfect for quail in my experience.
I was saying Brittany are good on birds. They are not a good choice if he doesn't plan to hunt those.
We used to train our Brittany's using quail. We would keep them caged and seed the fields to teach the dogs to pick up the scent and learn to point.
The quail coop in the basement is still a topic that sends my mom over the edge when we bring it up. One of the reasons she and my dad ultimately ended up divorced.
Thanks. The learning begins.
Seriously, Bapak and At the Murph are steering you straight. Pick your game, pick a breed that is good for that game, then find a good trainer and breeder. Here is how I ended up with my Lab, Thor:
I wanted to hunt upland birds and waterfowl. We wanted a dog that was good in the house, a good watchdog and a snuggle buddy. I called a trainer I knew was very good near Warsaw, Ray Weaver. Ray heard what I wanted and located a litter whose mom was a pointing lab and Dad was a field trial champion. We looked at the litter, picked the #2-#3 most adventurous pup. #1 would likely be a great hunter or field trial champ, but not great inside due to a "HYPER" hunting drive. I took the pup home right at 7 weeks. Week 7-14 are the crucial weeks for a dog imprinting on you and for learning. I took all my spare time with the pup to drive around and watch trains go by, watch road construtction, go to the trap range and hear shotguns (from 50 yards away) all while being pet and fed kibble. I also took him for his first swim in a pond: I walked in with waders and let him just follow me and start swimming. I then had him go after a tennis ball which he retrieved immediately. I also wore camo and hid from him in the grass and trees at a park. As soon as he turned around I would hide and then toot a whistle to help him find me. Now when he heats me trill the whistle he is conditioned to come find me.
After 5 months of this and teaching basic obedience, retrieving, house manners, etc. I sent him to the trainer for specific training using live birds, launchers, etc. the trainer had. 2 months later, he flushed and retrieved his first pheasant. Since then, he has retrieved doves and waterfowl, flushed and retrieved pheasant, quail and grouse and dug up a few dozen softballs around the park. Great travelling buddy, and member of the family when he's not hunting. It's a lot of work and commitment to own and work a smart hunting dog, but worth every bit of $$ and time if you love the sport.
Rabbit hunting is best done with a Beagle.
Squirrel hunting is best done with a Feist/Terrier mix
Bird hunting is best done with aLABRADOR RETRIEVER
Coon hunting is best done with a Walker.
Duck hunting is best done with a Labrador retriever.
Sorry, but if I want to kill quail, grouse, and pheasants anywhere near Indiana a lab just wont do. It also wont have that style or build the anticipation that a rock solid point holds when in the prairie grass.
With a lab in pheasant ground you'd best wear your track shoes. Dog on bird, dog runs after bird, bird flies away 100 yards ahead.
Now I have killed many different birds over labs, but over a pointing dog is an entirely different game.
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