New Compound Bow Suggestions

[King31]

After deer hunting for over 10 years, I believe it is time for me to branch out and start bow hunting. I've never shot a compound bow, but have several friends and relatives that currently have one. With that, everyone has different opinions to what is the best and reasons for the claim. I have done a little research, yet still on the fence about what is needed for a beginner bow.

My plan is to purchase a bow with part of this years tax return. So within the next few months I should be ready to shoot, practice all summer, and hopefully I'll be capable of going hunting later this year. I also just purchased a Summit Viper SD which is my first climber, so deer season may look a lot different this year. I am in my mid 20s and 6'2". My intentions of upgrading in 2-3 years would mean I need an adjustable and somewhat cheap (less than $600).

What does INGO think??

 

[HuntMeister]

Go and handle / shoot as many as you can, one or more will feel better to you than all of the others. Boat sport and travel show coming up would be an excellent place to look at and handle a few bows.

 

[sugarcreekbrass]

You can also check out any pro shops in your area. Most will let you shoot some as well. You can find a lot in your price range. Don’t expect to get a new flagship bow from the big companies, but you might find a used one that will fit you that is only a year or two old. If you plan on being ready to shoot for under $600 you will be limited. Arrow rest, sight, release, arrows, broadheads, practice points, peep sight, quiver, etc will add up fast.

 

[two70]

There are a lot of quality bows in your price range, especially slightly older used ones. You can often find previous years models at significant discount if you look hard enough on Ebay, Cabelas, Midway USA, etc. Going to shoot as many as you can to see what you like is good advice and accessorizes do add up really fast. Also keep in mind that comfort and the ability to draw smoothly and easily are more important than shooting a heavier poundage. Do you plan to shoot with a release or fingers? Using a release usually speeds up the learning curve and opens up more viable bow options but will add to the expense of accessories. Using fingers can be uncomfortable on the short axle to axle bows that are common now so that will limit your options a bit and the longer axle to axle bows can be a nuisance out of a climber.

 

[King31]

There are a lot of quality bows in your price range, especially slightly older used ones. You can often find previous years models at significant discount if you look hard enough on Ebay, Cabelas, Midway USA, etc. Going to shoot as many as you can to see what you like is good advice and accessorizes do add up really fast. Also keep in mind that comfort and the ability to draw smoothly and easily are more important than shooting a heavier poundage. Do you plan to shoot with a release or fingers? Using a release usually speeds up the learning curve and opens up more viable bow options but will add to the expense of accessories. Using fingers can be uncomfortable on the short axle to axle bows that are common now so that will limit your options a bit and the longer axle to axle bows can be a nuisance out of a climber.

Thanks everyone for the advice. To answer your question, I am planning on shooting with a release. I definitely need to figure out what ATA length will work for me. I've perused accessories for awhile now and I can see it adds up quick just like any other hobby that I have (fishing, shooting, golf, etc). Planning on checking out Cabelas this week and then a few local shops this weekend if all goes well. How important is high percentage let-off? Is there anything that shows comfortable hold time comparing 70%, 80% or 90%?

 

[yetti462]

I would get a used Mathews z7.

 

[sugarcreekbrass]

Thanks everyone for the advice. To answer your question, I am planning on shooting with a release. I definitely need to figure out what ATA length will work for me. I've perused accessories for awhile now and I can see it adds up quick just like any other hobby that I have (fishing, shooting, golf, etc). Planning on checking out Cabelas this week and then a few local shops this weekend if all goes well. How important is high percentage let-off? Is there anything that shows comfortable hold time comparing 70%, 80% or 90%?

A 32” ATA will work well for you. A 34-35” wouldn’t be bad either. Let off shouldn’t be much of a concern right now. That is more of a preference. I would be looking more for a smooth draw with a nice valley. Some cams are very aggressive and have no valley. Those are difficult to shoot if you are not used to them. Another thing you will want to check is the brace height. The shorter brace heights will generally gain you speed, but are less forgiving. 7” is very common among hunting bows. I wouldn’t go shorter than 6.5”.

 

[nascarfantoo]

I am no archery expert having only been shooting a couples years, but as others have said I strongly urge try several different bows & manufacturers. Personally I prefer the small archery shops over big box (Cabela's, Bass Pro, etc.). I have found many very knowledgeable people in the smaller shops (but not all). Also, many will spend a lot more time with you for bow fit, set-up, etc. (Bow fit is critical.)

Where in southern IN you located? Although I am from western part I do know a few guys over by Bloomington/Bedford area that might suggest some shops.

Buying used can be a smart option. Go to the shops, try different bows and then look for one used. The Archery Talk forum is full of people selling used equipment (and some with very good advice too). Of course you would need to be a little cautious as with buying anything used.

Just an assumption but I would guess someone 6'2" in their mid-20s should be in pretty decent shape (at least compared to this 60+ guy) so a max draw weight of 60# or 70# should okay. But don't push it. Drawing too heavy of weight can mess up your form.

If you find a bow and need a sight let me know. I have an IQ sight (new) that I was keeping as a backup sight, but I really love my Axcel sight. Could possibly be talked into parting with the IQ at a good price.

 

[King31]

I'm looking at 32" right now as being a multi-purpose bow. Some people say a longer bow doesn't matter for hunting, but I'm not quite behind that logic. Noted on brace height and will definitely want a smooth draw.

I am in Perry County, but travel to Indy often. Whittakers, Great Outdoors, and Gun World all come to mind for decent bow shops. I am in pretty good shape, so hoping to start out with 60lbs draw weight. If I could get an adjustable 55-70lb bow, I believe it would allow me to figure out what I like best.

One of my best friends just informed he would let me use his old bow, so I am going to look into that as well and possibly save some cash for finer things.

 

[two70]

Thanks everyone for the advice. To answer your question, I am planning on shooting with a release. I definitely need to figure out what ATA length will work for me. I've perused accessories for awhile now and I can see it adds up quick just like any other hobby that I have (fishing, shooting, golf, etc). Planning on checking out Cabelas this week and then a few local shops this weekend if all goes well. How important is high percentage let-off? Is there anything that shows comfortable hold time comparing 70%, 80% or 90%?

While let-off is a matter of preference as far as shooting goes, higher let-off is beneficial if you have to hold the bow at full draw for a long time while hunting. It is not a deal breaker either way though.

I'm looking at 32" right now as being a multi-purpose bow. Some people say a longer bow doesn't matter for hunting, but I'm not quite behind that logic. Noted on brace height and will definitely want a smooth draw.

I am in Perry County, but travel to Indy often. Whittakers, Great Outdoors, and Gun World all come to mind for decent bow shops. I am in pretty good shape, so hoping to start out with 60lbs draw weight. If I could get an adjustable 55-70lb bow, I believe it would allow me to figure out what I like best.

One of my best friends just informed he would let me use his old bow, so I am going to look into that as well and possibly save some cash for finer things.

If you are talking about Great Outdoors in Jasper, I would avoid that place like the plague and under no circumstance would I buy a bow from them or let them touch one of my bows. Most bows have a 10# draw weight range and if you are planning on upgrading in a few years anyway a 50-60# starter bow makes a lot of sense.

 

[phylodog]

Plenty of good advice here. Bow preference is not much different than pistols or pickups, everyone has what they like and what feels best to them. I'd definitely start off no heavier than 60# draw weight, it's plenty for whitetail and will allow you to shoot more as you develop your form. When I started bowhunting again in 2013 I started with a Mathews then had a couple of Bowtechs, an Obsession and now have an Elite and they all had their strengths and weaknesses.

Whatever you end up with, once you've had it for awhile and decide that you'd like to stick with it find someone knowledgeable in tuning and have the bow tuned. It can make a significant difference in how it shoots and can help take your proficiency to a new level.

 

[Cpt Caveman]

Get a decent recurve and enjoy yourself. Compounds are work.

 

[trailrider]

There are hundreds of good compounds out there and they can get crazy expensive. My first compound I got used on INGO for $100 several years ago. I upgraded to a gently used Bear Carnage cheap 4 years ago. Still killing deer with it and love it. Point is, you can pick up a good flagship bow that is a few years old for pennies on the dollar. If your buddy has one you can use I say go for it. You can learn form and practice with just about anything.

 

[snapping turtle]

I still shoot what would today be called a dinosaur PSE bow I purchased new in 1995. Yes 1995. Overdraw. 2117 arrowns muzzy broadheads have been taking deer since 1996 with that thing. I know it’s limits and stay within them.

PSE was pushing them hard and included a lifetime warranty including the string and I have taken major advantage of that. That piece of paper was and is priceless. The last cam I had replaced took them a while to send out so it may have been the last of it’s kind. I am hoping to turn it into some good money off a crossbow when the next cam goes out. They have lost money on me with this bow.

You don’t Have to spend a ton of money on a bow to deer hunt with. I paid nice 1995 money for mine and got a good 20 seasons of use. My PSE shop hates to see me come in and leave without feeling I need a new bow. Like I said if it need a replacement cam or limb I hope to get money back for a crossbow. My father could use the x bow even with a bad shoulder.

The PSE has been solid for 20 years (rebuild several items and times) has never failed to preform in the field. It did get frozen hunting once in a ice/rain/snow day.

 

[King31]

Plenty of good advice here. Bow preference is not much different than pistols or pickups, everyone has what they like and what feels best to them. I'd definitely start off no heavier than 60# draw weight, it's plenty for whitetail and will allow you to shoot more as you develop your form. When I started bowhunting again in 2013 I started with a Mathews then had a couple of Bowtechs, an Obsession and now have an Elite and they all had their strengths and weaknesses.

Whatever you end up with, once you've had it for awhile and decide that you'd like to stick with it find someone knowledgeable in tuning and have the bow tuned. It can make a significant difference in how it shoots and can help take your proficiency to a new level.

Great information in here . 60# does seem like a good starting draw. I'd still like to stick to the plan of buying a cheaper one now and upgrading when I get accustomed to it. If I get to use my friend's it will be that much sweeter. Thanks fellas

 

[King31]

A year later and I finally purchased my first bow. Last year I was able to hunt and practice with a bow loaned to me by one of my friends. I was bit by the bug that is bow hunting and decided to splurge at buying a good one. After going to several different shops and having the chance to shoot several different models, I decided on a Mathews. I ended up purchasing a used one at Whittakers which was well below the majority of other shops on costs.

Mathews Halon 6 set around 58#. Has a G5 Optix XR-2 2 Pin Sight, Axiom Archery 6" Stabilizer, QAD UltraRest Pro Series, Mathews Solocam 3 Arrow Quiver. The string and cables were also in great shape. I bought a Spott Hogg Grinder 5 Pin sight, but I'm not sure which one I want to go with. Either way I hope to stick a buck this year but if not I am for sure going for a doe. Didn't shoot at anything last year while in the stand so this one will hopefully be different. Now it's time to start practicing so I can work up to 70#!

 

[El Conquistador]

Great choice in picking a bow. You cant go wrong with a Mathews. I got one a last year and love it. Good luck this season with it.

 

[sugarcreekbrass]

Congrats on the purchase. You will have plenty of time to fling arrows before season. Short ATA and short brace height bows generally are less forgiving. As long as you get practice time in, you should be stacking arrows by Oct 1!! Good luck!!

 

[King31]

Congrats on the purchase. You will have plenty of time to fling arrows before season. Short ATA and short brace height bows generally are less forgiving. As long as you get practice time in, you should be stacking arrows by Oct 1!! Good luck!!

I have read that, but I'm up for the challenge. This bow is so smooth and quiet. Initial shooting produced decent groups even with the sight out of alignment.