German 98 mauser Sporter project gun...

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  • 1911ly

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    I was given this rifle by a good friend. It had been in his family for ever. It was sporterized at some point in it's life. The SN numbers put it as made in 1944 by Gustloff Werke, Weimar. It's pretty rough looking at first glance.







    Tt has a Redfield peep sight.


    There is almost no finish left on it. The gun as set in the back of a closet for 30 plus years. Bolt is really stiff. Dried grease and oil in the action. Surprisingly there is very little rust. Just brown dried grease and oil. It is soaking at the moment.




    It has a Redfield rear peep sight. the stock that is on it is pretty much just firewood. I have always wanted a Mauser. We will see what she turns in to. It's to far along in the sporter process to turn back now.
    -------------------
    I finally got around to disassembling the rifle and looking everything over thoroughly. And I addressed a few issues. Amazingly the numbers match on whats left of the original rifle. I really wish it had not been sporterized and had stored better. But at least I don't have to feel guilty about making any changes to it. It's already pretty much past the point of no return at this point.

    It turns out the barrel has a bright shiny bore. Sadly the outside surface of it is pretty pitted but chamber looks excellent. The machining on the receiver is not the prettiest. You can tell it was build at the end of the war. Nothing is polished or finely finished on the bolt or the receiver. When I got it he bolt was really stiff and the safety was stuck in the fire position. I disassembled the bolt and thoroughly cleaned it. Most of the stiffness was because of crud and dried grease in the bolt and in the extractor ring groove. I am pretty sure most of it was cosmoline. The bolt locking lug area of the receiver was pretty crudded up too. The safety now works and the bolt cycles much much better.

    The action is still a little tight though. I think some of it is still the extractor ring. It is not very circular. It looks a little "filed to fit" I need to degrease everything really well and put some Dychem on the bolt and see what it is going on with it.

    I am going to put the action in a Boyds stock and maybe cold blue it for now. I am going to have some fun with it. And will probably go farther with it at a later date. Story has it that the bolt has always been stiff on this gun and it wasn't fired because of it. I don't think it was ever really thoroughly cleaned. When I am done with it I am going to take the previous owner to the range to shoot it and see what he thinks of it.

    More to come.....
     

    1911ly

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    I spent some time working on the action. I was really suspect that the extractor collar was giving me the bolt drag. I was spot on. I cleaned and degrease the bolt and the action. I applied Dychem on the bolt and cycled it a half a dozen times. It is catching in a few places on the collar. Here is the worst area circled in red. It is really getting dug in to.



    I worked on the collar a little bit with a jewelers file in a few spots and the bolt cycled a heck of a lot better. So I removed the collar and extractor from the bolt and the action is smooth as silk with just the bare bolt. So I have ordered a new collar. This one is bent to far out of shape to mess with. I am going to guess it came out of the factory bent like that. An inexperience worker probably put this one together. A new extractor collar has been purchased.


    More coming shortly....
     

    1911ly

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    The parts came in fast! I now have the missing locking screws for the trigger guard to action screws and a NOS extractor ring. The new ring was a bit bent too :( looks like the envelope got stepped on, but luckily it was easy to straighten out unlike the one originally on the the gun. It was thoroughly soaked in cosmoline too! This one is made a bit different. It is not as springy and the area that slides in to the extractor to capture it is more beefy. Not just a sheet metal hooked edge.

    It was easier to install then I thought. No fitting was required on the ring. Some info I had found on line said I might need to bevel the leading edge to fit it. I was able to reshape the bend with Channel Locks and spread the ring with snap ring pliers, slide it over the groove in the bolt and lightly squeeze the ring together in the vise with soft jaws and slide the extractor on with some fiddling. 5 minute job at most. It's a fit perfect.




    Installed:



    The bolt cycles beautiful now. No drag or tight spots. There is still a lot more to do. Polish some rough spots. Address the pitting on the outside of the barrel. Then add a Timney trigger, Boyds stock, maybe a different front sight and then some kind of finish for the metal.
     

    1911ly

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    The Boyds stock came in. A test fit brings forth a few issues. I figured the Redfield sight was going to require some modifications on the stock for clearance.

    Here is the boy and the new stock:



    I put some painters tape on the area where the sight will rest and scribe some rough lines. I also notice the front barrel channel need some more clearance on the right side, tape and mark....





    The bottom plate required some work be done to the stock as well. The bottom cover has a radius near the bottom mag cover release. The plate would not lay flat.



    I put a slight radius on the wood, and it fit fine:



    More to come...
     

    1911ly

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    I probably should have Taken more pictures of the next part. I whittled and filed until I could get the base of the sight to clear the stock. It was such an ugly process that I figured I might make it ugly. But it came out fine. The base clears everything and the stock looks pretty good. I had to remove a big chunk!



    Even on the inside:


    The next issue was fun. While the sight base clears just fine, the Elevation tang that adjust up and down hits the stock. :( NP, just put a bevel on the side and try to blend it in so it doesn't look butt ugly. I spend quite a bit of time with a curved file. I had to put the actin and and take it out a few dozen times until the tag clears the stock the width of a piece of paper:



    More to come...
     

    1911ly

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    One of the many things I like about the Boyd's stocks are the finish goes all the way threw the woods. You can cut, file, sand and polish it all out!





    more to come...
     

    1911ly

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    After all the fitting I put the action back in the stock. I think it looks pretty good:





    It's totally shootable at this moment. I've loaded up some test rounds for it. Hopefully before the week is over I will get it to the range for a test fire. I still have a lot to do to it. The metal finish needs addressed and the rear sight needs a complete disassembly and thorough cleaning & lube. I want to replace the trigger. Probably a Timney. While I am at it the bottom cover is still covered in cosmoline and it will need a finish too.

    It's been a fun project. I will post more when I have made farther progress.
     

    Fargo

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    In a state of acute Pork-i-docis
    My brother built a very similar sporter in 35 Whelen on a Mauser action. If memory serves there were some issues with the gun in its original form as I believe he had one of the early .318 bores but .323 ammo. I know the later guns were generally all .323 but I have been told that some of the sporters are out there with .318. 44 manufacture should definitely be 323 but I seem to recall his also being a World War II gun but having the smaller bore. If you have the ability to slug the barrel to be sure, it might not be a terrible idea.
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    Great job with the new stock! Wow, that really looks nice. Glad the issue with the bolt was resolved too. You had a little diamond in the rough there! :yesway:
     

    DoggyDaddy

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    My brother built a very similar sporter in 35 Whelen on a Mauser action. If memory serves there were some issues with the gun in its original form as I believe he had one of the early .318 bores but .323 ammo. I know the later guns were generally all .323 but I have been told that some of the sporters are out there with .318. 44 manufacture should definitely be 323 but I seem to recall his also being a World War II gun but having the smaller bore. If you have the ability to slug the barrel to be sure, it might not be a terrible idea.
    It's a K98, so it should definitely be .323. Where you are more likely to run into the .318 bores are the Gew 88 contract rifles (which weren't really Mausers at all) I think. The Gew 88's that have been converted to .323 have an "S" marking on the receiver ring.
     

    1911ly

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    My brother built a very similar sporter in 35 Whelen on a Mauser action. If memory serves there were some issues with the gun in its original form as I believe he had one of the early .318 bores but .323 ammo. I know the later guns were generally all .323 but I have been told that some of the sporters are out there with .318. 44 manufacture should definitely be 323 but I seem to recall his also being a World War II gun but having the smaller bore. If you have the ability to slug the barrel to be sure, it might not be a terrible idea.

    I read where Paul Mauser said he designed the action to handle any round from 5mm to 9mm ammo. I also read where there was some confusion early on with calibers and some guns were marked incorrectly. That was early on I believe. There were military's that converted them or had them made to their standard round.
     

    1911ly

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    Thanks for the kind words guys! It's been a fun project. Still a lot to do yet. I will post more when I figure out whats next.
     

    rob63

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    Love what you have done, and absolutely love that stock! I'm going to end up looking for Bubba' rifles just so I can have a use for a stock like that.
     
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