My First "25 Cent Trigger Job"...Meh.

[Tac45]

So out of curiosity, as I've never done one before, I decided to get some Mother's Mag and a polishing felt tip for the Dremel and try the famous "25 Cent Trigger Job."
This took me about an hour to do, and that includes interruptions from my 8 week old
It was much easier than I thought it would be, and the parts definitely LOOK better...but to be 100% honest--I can't feel enough of a difference to justify trying it again in the future.
The only very slight difference I feel is in the initial take-up, when the trigger bar is disengaging the firing pin block. It's maybe a little smoother, but not any lighter what-so-ever. I guess I need to keep in mind that this is just a polishing of contact points, and no material was actually removed. Overall everything was "smoother," and a bit less "gritty" feeling, but no reduction in pull weight or anything like that.
My Ghost Ultimate connector and spring kit will be here today, so I'll play around with some different combinations and see what I come up with.
I got into what I was doing, and decided to go ahead and polish the barrel while I was at it.

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[Tac45]

Thanks to the mod who moved this! I wasn't paying attention to what forum I was in.

 

[biggen]

I do the polish job on all my Glocks, I would agree with your observations. I doubt there is any reduction in pull, but sometimes I can feel it smooth up a little. I think your G34 comes with a "-" connector, so I'm not sure if you'll feel much difference with the Ghost Ultimate.

I have a G40 and a G41 which both have "-" connectors and they feel better to me than my G20 which has the Ultimate connector and the spring kit.

I will be interested in what your thoughts are when you get yours installed. Best of luck.

 

[Tac45]

Ah but my 34 is an LEO from our department distributor. Regular connector and non adjustable sights

 

[biggen]

Oh in that case, you should notice an improvement.

 

[1980Harley]

I've done a few 25-cent trigger jobs. Some worked better than others. There is something else I have done recently and that is use shims to take up some of the play with parts that have pins going through them. I've found that even using a 0.002" shim on either side of a trigger inside the housing can make a difference. Takes away some of the side-to-side play.

 

[CountryBoy19]

In theory, polished moving surfaces, properly lubricated will have less friction than unpolished. That being said, the amount of friction is very small so polishing might gain you very small changes in pull weight. Where the majority of pull-weight comes from on firearm triggers is from spring pressure. Most trigger/sear engagements have (in layman's terms) a "hooked" engagement, so in order to slide past one another the trigger actually pulls the hammer back further yet (compressing the spring). This is why adding high-power hammer springs will often result in higher trigger pull (it's not because of the higher friction).

I hope that explanation is easy to understand.

The way that you change the "weight" of this trigger pull, where the trigger is actually compressing the hammer/striker spring more is to change the angle of the mating surfaces of the trigger/sear. This takes a great deal of understanding/knowledge, patience, care, practice, etc. Go too far and the gun will fire when dropped or hit hard, get a poor mating surface and you can get a number of problems...

 

[throttletony]

get a gen 3 trigger bar in there.
there's a "bump/dimple" introduced in the gen4 trigger bar that helps to center the bar with the firing pin block. Gen3 did not have them, worked fine, and had less friction.

It's been a while since I worked on Glocks, but I remember this much
The info below is in regards to a Gen4 G35, but you have the same trigger bar

info: Glock 26 Gen 3 vs 4 trigger pull - Glock Forum

Pic:

 

[SSGSAD]

You have M&P, for your avatar, and you were "working" on a g---k .....

MAN, no wonder .....

I thought they were "PERFECTION" out of the box .....