10/22 stock repair (sling stud)

The #1 community for Gun Owners in Indiana

Member Benefits:

  • Fewer Ads!
  • Discuss all aspects of firearm ownership
  • Discuss anti-gun legislation
  • Buy, sell, and trade in the classified section
  • Chat with Local gun shops, ranges, trainers & other businesses
  • Discover free outdoor shooting areas
  • View up to date on firearm-related events
  • Share photos & video with other members
  • ...and so much more!
  • bocefus78

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    39   0   0
    Apr 9, 2014
    2,023
    63
    Hamilton Co.
    I somehow managed to pull the rear sling stud out of the stock of my 10/22 target. Woodworking is not my specialty, so here I am.

    How should I repair this? Drill new hole? Some sort of wood filler or epoxy? Id rather not refinish the whole stock to fix a hole.

    Surely somebody with some experience has done this.

    Thx Ingo
     

    MCgrease08

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    37   0   0
    Mar 14, 2013
    14,373
    149
    Earth
    I have the same issue with my 10/22 sling mount hole. I was told to cut down a few toothpicks to the depth of the opening, line the hole with wood glue and then the insert the toothpicks. Once items all dry, screw the sling mount into the newly narrowed opening.

    I have not actually tried this remedy yet, but several people have suggested it and in theory it seems like a sound enough idea.
     

    Nitro

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    3   0   0
    Aug 24, 2017
    65
    8
    Columbus
    That sucks that happened to you!! YouTube might be your friend on this one. I have used wood filler and epoxy on a few home projects but never used it for something that holds a lot of weight. Even though the 10/22 doesn't weigh anything. When you say pulled it out did it just pull out of the hole or did it break of extra wood with it? If you did not pull to much material and if there are threads on the sling stud almost like a bolt I would either helicoil it or use a time sert. If no threads epoxy might be a good thing to try. Toothpick Idea might be worth a shot too.
     

    halfmileharry

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    65   0   0
    Dec 2, 2010
    11,450
    99
    South of Indy
    I would drill the hole evenly and epoxy in a threaded "zirt" insert.
    Once you get the proper sizes set up it's easy to use a machine threaded swivel stud.
    Don't get epoxy in the insert threads.
    I've done this on an old Winchester 70, Mossberg 835 Ultimag, and a Remexpress laminated rustbucket. It works great.
    Let the epoxy sit for a couple of days before you use the stud.
     

    bocefus78

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    39   0   0
    Apr 9, 2014
    2,023
    63
    Hamilton Co.
    That sucks that happened to you!! YouTube might be your friend on this one. I have used wood filler and epoxy on a few home projects but never used it for something that holds a lot of weight. Even though the 10/22 doesn't weigh anything. When you say pulled it out did it just pull out of the hole or did it break of extra wood with it? If you did not pull to much material and if there are threads on the sling stud almost like a bolt I would either helicoil it or use a time sert. If no threads epoxy might be a good thing to try. Toothpick Idea might be worth a shot too.

    The studs on the 10/22t model include the permanent 1 inch sling mount. I swapped it for a normal stud to use a 1.25 inch GI sling. It pulled out clean. No threads, but no chips either. Methinks the threads weren't The same pitch looking back.

    The target model is far from light either. It's got a .920 bull barrel and a stock that by itself, weighs as much as a standard 10/22.
     

    bobjones223

    Master
    Rating - 98.2%
    55   1   0
    Mar 3, 2011
    1,779
    47
    Noblesville, IN
    I have the same issue with my 10/22 sling mount hole. I was told to cut down a few toothpicks to the depth of the opening, line the hole with wood glue and then the insert the toothpicks. Once items all dry, screw the sling mount into the newly narrowed opening.

    I have not actually tried this remedy yet, but several people have suggested it and in theory it seems like a sound enough idea.

    I have used this method on several stripped wood screws and it works very well. That being said I am not familiar with the threads on a factory 10/22 sling stud. If it is just a standard wood screw threaded straight into the stock the toothpick method will work great.
     

    gmcttr

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    May 22, 2013
    8,593
    149
    Columbus
    I have used this method on several stripped wood screws and it works very well. That being said I am not familiar with the threads on a factory 10/22 sling stud. If it is just a standard wood screw threaded straight into the stock the toothpick method will work great.

    Toothpicks and wood glue is a well known and time tested fix for stripped threads in wood. Have used and seen it used MANY times (25 years in commercial construction), typically for door hinge screws.

    Work the wood glue into the hole with a toothpick, coat toothpicks with glue, jam them into the hole, cut off flush and insert screw while glue is still wet. If you let the glue harden, the screw may be pushed off center as the glue may be harder than the surrounding wood.
     

    indiucky

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    12   0   0
    I have the same issue with my 10/22 sling mount hole. I was told to cut down a few toothpicks to the depth of the opening, line the hole with wood glue and then the insert the toothpicks. Once items all dry, screw the sling mount into the newly narrowed opening.

    This works.....I have repaired countless vintage weapons this way...
     

    Simon6101

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    153   0   0
    May 3, 2008
    2,545
    83
    Sw Indy(Camby)
    I usually use wooden matchsticks and wood glue to repair things like you are fixing. The other thing that works is to take sawdust and mix with wood glue, fill the hole and rescrew in the stud.
     

    natdscott

    User Unknown
    Trainer Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Jul 20, 2015
    2,797
    113
    .
    Nah. Hell with toothpicks, and anything else that even resembles wood (at least, on the INside of the stock).

    Repair that sucker with Devcon 10110 steel epoxy, and never look back.

    If you can't, get ahold of me, and I will. Not kidding in the least.

    -Nate
     

    halfmileharry

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    65   0   0
    Dec 2, 2010
    11,450
    99
    South of Indy
    Nah. Hell with toothpicks, and anything else that even resembles wood (at least, on the INside of the stock).

    Repair that sucker with Devcon 10110 steel epoxy, and never look back.

    If you can't, get ahold of me, and I will. Not kidding in the least.

    -Nate

    Another good fix.
    Ruger wood seems to be soft OR the studs are easily pulled out with leverage. I only use the threaded inserts because I'm used to them and they're easy to use for me.
    You can get them at Lowes in the blue cabinets.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
    Emeritus
    Rating - 100%
    187   0   0
    Dec 7, 2011
    191,809
    152
    Speedway area
    I have the same issue with my 10/22 sling mount hole. I was told to cut down a few toothpicks to the depth of the opening, line the hole with wood glue and then the insert the toothpicks. Once items all dry, screw the sling mount into the newly narrowed opening.

    I have not actually tried this remedy yet, but several people have suggested it and in theory it seems like a sound enough idea.

    This repair works very well. I never wait for the glue to dry.
     

    natdscott

    User Unknown
    Trainer Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Jul 20, 2015
    2,797
    113
    .
    Plastic steel /lab metal / deacon all good stuff, but, I still like the hardwood dowls rod method

    Truthfully, I've used both, and if/when I use the dowel...I Devcon it in. :):

    I most often use a dowel if I have a lot of space to fill, or if I know that I will be seeing that dowel again (such as when parting off a cheekpiece).

    I still maintain that the MOST solid fix to this issue, while still maintaining the original appearance, is to drill out the hole like a cavity, fill it with Devcon and apply more to the WAXED stud, and push that into the stock. Wipe up all the excess off the tape that you already applied around the hole, and let it set up. When 1/2 the cure time is up, rotate the sling stud in the hole about 1/2 turn outward to break the epoxy loose from the threads a little.

    When removed, the epoxy has created threads inside the stock, and the sling stud can be threaded in and out, if so desired.

    -Nate
     

    55fairlane

    Master
    Rating - 100%
    4   0   0
    Jan 15, 2016
    2,216
    113
    New Haven
    I will have to try this.....I guess I may be a little bias, because as a tool maker, we never trust deacon alone.....but I'm open to trying new things
     

    natdscott

    User Unknown
    Trainer Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    5   0   0
    Jul 20, 2015
    2,797
    113
    .
    Well shoot no. It depends on the purpose for the epoxy. I would NEVER repair a metal defect on a firearm with Devcon, except maybe a non-critical thread, and I wouldn't really trust that; too much force on too little thread.

    I will say that the Devcon FasMetal is WAY stronger...but when it says "Fast" on the jar, it means it. 5 minutes in, it's getting tough to spread, 10 minutes in, and anything still in it is staying in it. For that reason, I'd never use it BEDDING a rifle, but it might have some uses elsewhere?

    For bedding, I stick with what I know, and that is 10110.

    -Nate
     
    Top Bottom