1911 Frame Rail

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  • Mr Evilwrench

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    Ok, I'm starting to get frustrated. All I want is a 4 slot Pic rail for the frame on my Para P12. I don't mind drilling and threading, in fact I figured on it, may even need a backing plate if I can clear the recoil spring (aluminum frame). Every time I try a search, all I can find are flat bottomed ones, and it kind of needs a curved bottom for the frame to nest in. Am I going to have to do some machining on one, cut off the end of a rifle one, or flat out make my own, or does somebody know what I need to call it for a search? This seems to me like something that people would want to do from time to time.
     

    Mr Evilwrench

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    Bingo, thank you so much. I've been searching all these places, including Brownell's, and either their search is broken/deficient, or I've lost my search-fu.
     

    churchmouse

    I still care....Really
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    You will not need a backing plate if you take your time and do it right. You will most likely need to trim the screws down once they are tight. If the protrude at all they will hit or stop the slide.
    I have done more than a few of these.
     

    halfmileharry

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    You will not need a backing plate if you take your time and do it right. You will most likely need to trim the screws down once they are tight. If the protrude at all they will hit or stop the slide.
    I have done more than a few of these.
    Beat me to it.
    OP, careful with the alignment. The aluminum frames are easily messed up, threads strip easily, etc. Alignment and securing the rail for marking and drilling are critical.
    Once I have the frame drilled and tapped I put a couple of drops of thread loc (LocTite) between the frame and accessory rail as well as the screws.
    I don't know how close to spec the Para is but I've had to put a different arch angle on the rails before. I do this by using adhesive sand paper to make the arches on the frames match up with the rail. Cheap and easy if you use quality paper.
    Nothing to it other than time and patience.
     

    Mr Evilwrench

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    Well, after the endless filing and dremeling on a "semi-fit" threaded barrel, which was more like a "vaguely resembles" barrel, I can say I have the patience. I think the frame above the magazine conforms to a 1911. I can clamp it, square it, center it, drill it and all, I was just worrying that the aluminum would be a little thin to hold a thread against recoil. I don't have a problem trimming the screws, either. That particular rail comes with a tube of some kind of snot to make it pretty; I don't know whether it's a good adhesive.
     

    gmcttr

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    ... That particular rail comes with a tube of some kind of snot to make it pretty; I don't know whether it's a good adhesive.

    ACRAGLAS GEL is a two part epoxy product normally used for bedding stocks.

    With properly cleaned surfaces it should act as an excellent adhesive. Be sure to have a solvent that will cut uncured epoxy and a rag handy to clean up any excess before it cures.
     

    Mr Evilwrench

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    I looked that stuff up before I ordered the part. I was thinking maybe some epoxy would help, and they were way ahead of me. I'm an epoxy guy from way back, so all will be schwifty. Here I was thinking I was going to wind up with something all rednecked up with zip ties and velcro and JB weld, but Brownell's to the rescue!
     

    HEADKNOCKER

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    Would love to see a pic of the rail mounted on the P-12 Mr Evilwrench.
    I have no use for a light/laser etc on a compact but still wanna see..
    ROCK ON!!
    Gary/Hk
     

    DocIndy

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    Man...now I'm considering putting one on my full size Springer. If I add a rail, I could slap on a Surefire X300, add a 10 round mag and add it to the nightstand rotation. I wish I could find a Surefire MR07 mount. Always a day late.....
     
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