AR vice blocks

[Johnny C]

Wanting to remove a barrel and install a new one.
looking at vice blocks, which would be better for removing/installing a barrel

1: the plastic blocks that totally surround the upper
2: the aluminum ones that the upper pins onto
3: the one that goes into the mag well to hold the entire AR

Seems like the full surround one would stress things less when wrenching on the barrel nut or flash hider

experiences?

Thanks.
Johnny C

 

[dave29]

If I had to pick one of your choices, I would pick #1.

I like these the best:

https://geissele.com/ar15-m4-reaction-rod.html

 

[bwframe]

Fellow INGOer sold me on this one a while back:

https://www.magpul.com/products/bev-block-ar15-m4


FYI - If you are only planning one project, I would certainly not be shy about asking to borrow tools. I've loaned mine out a few times.

 

[rvb]

Flat top? Two blocks of wood. Turn it sideways. Done.

-rvb

 

[T-DOGG]

I used a vice block that surrounds the upper for years and many builds. While it worked, the proper and better way is to use a reaction rod like the one mentioned previously from Geissele. I saved myself some money and purchased the Brownells version for $49 and it worked great. It does not have the flats machined onto it like the Geissele, but it was still easy for me to use. The idea here is that you're not putting torque on the aluminum upper, but the steel barrel instead. The other benefit to the rod is that you don't have to remove optics or scuff up the upper (if that kind of thing matters to you).

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

 

[billybob44]

How good do you want??

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-rod-sku100016577-78459-159123.aspx?rrec=true
^^^
If you want the best here it is..I have used the heck out of mine..Bill

 

[Sniper 79]

I used the one that wraps the upper. Twenty nine bucks from Cabelas. Perfect for the occasional pipe swap. Wouldn't spend anymore unless you're going to be working on guns a bunch.

 

[Trigger Time]

If you aren't doing serious builds all the time buy the bevblock from magpul and always use your carrier when using the upper/barrel part of the bevblock. That's what will give you the same approach as the "action block" or "rod" or similar products.
The geissele would be the second option. I own both. I've turned on several friends to the magpul bevblock and I have built and worked on many Ar's with the bevblock, no complaints from me except I've found that the keys won't lock into BCM barrel extensions, so I use other tools on those.

The only reason above that I said "if you aren't doing serious builds all the time" like working on guns in a shop or as a gunsmith, is because you need to breakdown the BCG and install the carrier to properly use the tool and not put any torq on the upper receiver itself.
This could get time consuming if you are going a lot or if someone just brings you an upper without a BCG and you don't have a spare to use. But who doest?

 

[Rookie]

I used a vice block that surrounds the upper for years and many builds. While it worked, the proper and better way is to use a reaction rod like the one mentioned previously from Geissele. I saved myself some money and purchased the Brownells version for $49 and it worked great. It does not have the flats machined onto it like the Geissele, but it was still easy for me to use. The idea here is that you're not putting torque on the aluminum upper, but the steel barrel instead. The other benefit to the rod is that you don't have to remove optics or scuff up the upper (if that kind of thing matters to you).

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-barrel-extension-torque-tools-prod27452.aspx

I think the newer version has flats milled in. Mine does.

 

[ROLEXrifleman]

Just cause I wanna see the reaction rod and magpul guys squirm............................. what about when your building a 9mm AR?

 

[bwframe]

I used the old style upper block with the pins for my forged 9mm upper, carefully. If there's a next time, I'll likely use RVB's suggestion of sideways with blocks.

 

[seedubs1]

I've been using the Magpul BevBlock recently. I really like it. It's not much more expensive than an upper/lower vice block combo, and it works a LOT better. Pretty much one single tool that does all the holding of your AR you'll need. It's $45 WELL spent.

I don't see much benefit to the G reaction rod. They're expensive, and don't do anything the magpul bev block doesn't.

 

[genXer]

Used the wood blocks, sideways in vise for multiple barrel installs and it always worked. Finally picked this up to use with the last one I did. Same concept as the wood but is a little more secure since the lower pins into the block.

 

[seedubs1]

By the time you buy that and a lower block, you could have just bought a magpul bev block for the same price, and it's SOOOOO much nicer. And it'll let you properly torque on a muzzle device, unlike a normal upper vice block. You really should be securing the barrel when torquing a muzzle device, and a standard upper vice block doesn't allow you to do that. A G Reaction Rod or MagPul Bev Block allows you to secure the barrel.

Note: This is coming from a guy that bought the no-mar blocks before the MagPul bev block was a thing.

Used the wood blocks, sideways in vise for multiple barrel installs and it always worked. Finally picked this up to use with the last one I did. Same concept as the wood but is a little more secure since the lower pins into the block.

 

[genXer]

By the time you buy that and a lower block, you could have just bought a magpul bev block for the same price, and it's SOOOOO much nicer. And it'll let you properly torque on a muzzle device, unlike a normal upper vice block. You really should be securing the barrel when torquing a muzzle device, and a standard upper vice block doesn't allow you to do that. A G Reaction Rod or MagPul Bev Block allows you to secure the barrel.

Note: This is coming from a guy that bought the no-mar blocks before the MagPul bev block was a thing.

I agree with you, the correct way would be a reaction or BEV. If I didn't already have a lower block and planned on working on a bunch of ARs then yes I would have definitely went with the Magpul block. But I so infrequently do much with ARs that for less than 20 bucks I just picked up the No Mar. Plus if I ever get around to putting together another 9mm AR I'll still use the No Mar where I couldn't use the Magpul block.

 

[jbrubaker]

I just swapped my first hand guard the other day. It was my first time taking off the barrel nut and I did it with some random wood blocks. One of the blocks (on the bottom side of the receiver) was pine and it was too soft. The edges of the receiver dug into the pine and allowed some twisting. Next time I’m going to use hardwood and cut a few notches so it supports the whole length of the receiver. For infrequent use I’m hoping it will be adequate.

 

[croy]

I just swapped my first hand guard the other day. It was my first time taking off the barrel nut and I did it with some random wood blocks. One of the blocks (on the bottom side of the receiver) was pine and it was too soft. The edges of the receiver dug into the pine and allowed some twisting. Next time I’m going to use hardwood and cut a few notches so it supports the whole length of the receiver. For infrequent use I’m hoping it will be adequate.

Was it a propietary barrel nut such as BCM, Noveske, MI Industries? I hate those. I have several. Just hate having to change my barrel nut for a particular rail.

 

[croy]

If you aren't doing serious builds all the time buy the bevblock from magpul and always use your carrier when using the upper/barrel part of the bevblock. That's what will give you the same approach as the "action block" or "rod" or similar products.
The geissele would be the second option. I own both. I've turned on several friends to the magpul bevblock and I have built and worked on many Ar's with the bevblock, no complaints from me except I've found that the keys won't lock into BCM barrel extensions, so I use other tools on those.

The only reason above that I said "if you aren't doing serious builds all the time" like working on guns in a shop or as a gunsmith, is because you need to breakdown the BCG and install the carrier to properly use the tool and not put any torq on the upper receiver itself.
This could get time consuming if you are going a lot or if someone just brings you an upper without a BCG and you don't have a spare to use. But who doest?

Seeings how I do most of my upper work with TT I'll agree to this.

 

[seedubs1]

I like well designed proprietary barrel nuts for free float handguards. If they’re well designed, it makes the rail much more rigid, stable, and more robust.

Was it a propietary barrel nut such as BCM, Noveske, MI Industries? I hate those. I have several. Just hate having to change my barrel nut for a particular rail.

 

[Trigger Time]

I like well designed proprietary barrel nuts for free float handguards. If they’re well designed, it makes the rail much more rigid, stable, and more robust.

Agreed. The 2 best designs are BCM and geissele