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  1. #1
    Marksman Ambu's Avatar

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    Need help with rail removal, Southern Indiana

    Would anyone be able to help me remove a quad rail from my rifle? I'm down in Evansville but I'd be willing to drive an hour to you for some help! (Or if anyone knows anyone in the Northern Kentucky are who could help me?)

    I have an old YHM quad rail that I am trying to remove to put on a new MLOK rail. I am pretty sure that I was put on with red-loctite about 6-7 years ago. The 2 set screws were put on with loctite, and I was able to get them off by heating them with my propane torch. But, no matter how much I heat the nut I can't seem to get the rail to loosen.

    If I'm looking down the sights, I'm turning to the left (which should be loosening from what I understand). I don't know what to do next, so if anyone could help that would be ideal.
    WTS GEAR (TT,HSGI,ETC)

  2. #2
    Grandmaster halfmileharry's Avatar

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    Looking down the barrel from the muzzle to the receiver.... Turn the nut counter clockwise.
    The retaining nuts can be a real pain to get off depending how long they've been on.
    The more you sweat in training the less you bleed in battle.

  3. #3
    Marksman Ambu's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by halfmileharry View Post
    Looking down the barrel from the muzzle to the receiver.... Turn the nut counter clockwise.
    The retaining nuts can be a real pain to get off depending how long they've been on.
    It was my understanding that from muzzle to receiver you should turn clockwise (to the "right") and that if looking from receiver to muzzle it would be counterclockwise/"left"

    Ugh.
    WTS GEAR (TT,HSGI,ETC)

  4. #4
    Silencers Have NEVER Been Illegal !
    VUPDblue's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ambu View Post
    It was my understanding that from muzzle to receiver you should turn clockwise (to the "right") and that if looking from receiver to muzzle it would be counterclockwise/"left"

    Ugh.

    lolz. your understanding was incorrect. try the correct way and you can probably get it off yourself.
    VUPDblue's Rule #1: Don't be a jerk.

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  5. #5
    Marksman Ambu's Avatar

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    if I haven't overtorqued it on... ugh...
    WTS GEAR (TT,HSGI,ETC)

  6. #6
    Grandmaster halfmileharry's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ambu View Post
    It was my understanding that from muzzle to receiver you should turn clockwise (to the "right") and that if looking from receiver to muzzle it would be counterclockwise/"left"

    Ugh.
    As with any repair/cleaning/etc.. Unload weapon before beginning any work on them.
    The more you sweat in training the less you bleed in battle.

  7. #7
    Marksman Ambu's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by VUPDblue View Post
    lolz. your understanding was incorrect. try the correct way and you can probably get it off yourself.
    So, I tried to turn it counter-clockwise. After a little heat it kind of "clicked" back to straightly aligned, so the 2-3mm it had moved clockwise were now aligned with the top of the reciever.

    I tried to apply more heat and continue to turn counter-clockwise but I got nowhere. I think I may just end up selling the upper and getting something else.
    WTS GEAR (TT,HSGI,ETC)

  8. #8
    Grandmaster halfmileharry's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ambu View Post
    So, I tried to turn it counter-clockwise. After a little heat it kind of "clicked" back to straightly aligned, so the 2-3mm it had moved clockwise were now aligned with the top of the receiver.

    I tried to apply more heat and continue to turn counter-clockwise but I got nowhere. I think I may just end up selling the upper and getting something else.
    Hate to hear you're having trouble with it. Red Loc-Tite can be troublesome and tough to deal with.
    The more you sweat in training the less you bleed in battle.

  9. #9
    Expert

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    Red loctite requires 500F to melt it for removal.

    Aluminum is a great heat sink and will require the entire upper receiver to be close to 500F along with the nut and back end of the barrel.

    For future reference, a thread locker of any type should not be used on a barrel nut. This is a job for an appropriate grease and proper torque.

    Almost forgot...righty tighty lefty loosey

  10. #10
    Master sig1473's Avatar

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    Posting a pic of the upper might help. We might to be able to determine what kind of rail it is and the proper removal procedure.
    "Eis Aner Oudeis Aner"

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