Shotgun Painting

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  • Rating - 100%
    139   0   0
    Sep 3, 2010
    1,439
    48
    I have two Department owned Model 37 SBS's that need some new protection. Both guns have been sitting in storage for a long time and accumulated surface rust. I'm going to scrub them clean but would like to paint them to protect them more than bluing. I've krylon'd and used bake on duracoat or spray paint on beater shotguns several times with varying degrees of durability and want to know if anyone else has had much more success? Any input for something that won't scratch off at the first brush with a foreign object?

    I did get a quote for cerakoting from a SOT but didn't end up getting the expenditure approved and don't want to come out of pocket on guns I don't own.
     

    lrdudley

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    1   0   0
    Oct 30, 2016
    484
    63
    Indianapolis
    I have used DuraCoat on two hand guns and am pleased with the results. They are range guns, so don't get holstered or carried on a daily basis. Full cure time on DuraCoat is 3 weeks.
     

    Tactically Fat

    Grandmaster
    Site Supporter
    Rating - 100%
    22   0   0
    Oct 8, 2014
    8,270
    113
    Indiana
    Cerakote is a better product than duracote. However - it's also more difficult to apply. Typically done by professional applicators (as you know), I do believe they have a do-it-yourself-at-home line of products.
     

    Squirt239

    Expert
    Rating - 100%
    11   0   0
    Jun 7, 2010
    1,087
    113
    North of Brownsburg
    Cerakote (oven cured) is 10 times more durable than Duracoat. I have not used their air-dry product, but I would assume that it is comparable to Duracoat's product.

    Prep is key on any surface you are applying a finish to...paint, Cerakote, parkerizing, bluing...whatever.
     

    Herr Vogel

    Marksman
    Rating - 0%
    0   0   0
    Jun 10, 2018
    180
    18
    Rossburg
    I would strongly suggest you consider steaming and carding to repair the original finish. It's not going to be any more labor intensive than sanding it down, and water is cheaper than high temperature paint. See attached video.

    EDIT: Fixed video embed.

    [video=youtube;B2SyN6m39x4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2SyN6m39x4[/video]
     
    Last edited:

    Dead Duck

    Grandmaster
    Rating - 100%
    53   0   0
    Apr 1, 2011
    14,062
    113
    .
    Shotgun Painting

    These aren't that good. I'm still working on my brushstrokes. :rolleyes:

    Dkuq2gw.jpg


    ktyw1OJ.jpg


    7yVi6xI.jpg
     

    abeguzmanmarine

    Sharpshooter
    Rating - 100%
    10   0   0
    Feb 28, 2017
    309
    43
    TERRE HAUTE
    I used Duracoat Blue on an old Stevens. It turned out pretty nice. only shot it once since it was finished so I cant speak to the longevity yet, but it seems to be pretty durable so far. Below are just a few pics from the DuraBlue project.

    E3TYsDe.jpg


    v8t0Q9j.jpg


    iXU8OVk.jpg


    Lcv4ioo.jpg
     

    AdamP123

    Plinker
    Rating - 100%
    2   0   0
    Nov 9, 2017
    61
    8
    West-Central
    I have two Department owned Model 37 SBS's that need some new protection. Both guns have been sitting in storage for a long time and accumulated surface rust. I'm going to scrub them clean but would like to paint them to protect them more than bluing. I've krylon'd and used bake on duracoat or spray paint on beater shotguns several times with varying degrees of durability and want to know if anyone else has had much more success? Any input for something that won't scratch off at the first brush with a foreign object?

    I did get a quote for cerakoting from a SOT but didn't end up getting the expenditure approved and don't want to come out of pocket on guns I don't own.

    Check out Aluma-Hyde II. It is a great finish. Some people bash it, but I am fairly sure 95+% of those who complain have poor prep methods. I have probably painted 100+ rifles with it and have had excellent results. Also, what finish do you want? Black? Matte? Gloss?

    One things that sucks with Duracoat and Cerakote is that these finishes cannot be stripped easily if you want to change something or refinish the rifle. I've yet to find a stripper that could remove them once they are cured. While some may view that as a good thing, I don't like it. Personally, I like a finish that is 1) durable and 2) resistant to solvents, but 3) can be stripped if I so choose. Aluma-Hyde gets all three marks. If you do end up using Aluma-Hyde, I highly recommend you bake your firearm, even though it is a "no bake" finish. It speeds up cure time from weeks to 30 minutes.

    Here are some rifles that I refinished with Aluma-Hyde. All are still holding up just fine.

    20909643271_3f773da847_b.jpg


    20409959299_bc2f9da02c_b.jpg


    15826795006_ae9f4c12a4_b.jpg


    14058675839_9e84fa9e46_b.jpg


    31006836131_a7859a5f47_b.jpg


    26674181138_3ca12b1147_b.jpg
     
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