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  1. #1
    laf
    laf is offline
    Plinker

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    Project: Silenced M1 Garand

    I've got a goal of putting together a silenced M1 Garand in .308. I'm in search of some help for obstacles I may encounter and a gunsmith interested in threading a barrel and headspacing it. The goal is to have a functioning M1 in .308 that accepts a YHM QD mount on the muzzle and cycles .308 rounds. I've purchased the rifle already and it runs fine on .30-06 so I'm happy with the action and internals. I've written in to the Silencer Co podcast and they answered my question, but weren't helpful in the assembly of the rifle. It was already done when they got it and didn't offer much on the way of how they put the SilencerCo qd mount on it. https://www.stitcher.com/podcast/bea...rms/e/59727842 14 minutes in for my question.

    I've bought; Korea era M1 with new CMP wood, Criterion .308 24" barrel that needs finished reamed and headspaced on the rifle. A gas cylinder lock that needs cut a bit. An adjustable gas screw from Schuster MFG. And a QD mount in 5/8-24 for YHM silencers.

    An issue I found already is the barrel isn't thick enough to support 5/8-24 threads. The gas cylinder lock slides over the muzzle and into the gas system, if I remember right the barrel is .516" in diameter. I think it will support 1/2-28 threading or 1/2-36 threading and YHM sells .30 cal QD muzzle brakes with both of those pitches. https://yhm.net/thread-specifications has drawings of threading that they require for the QD mounts. I've also found that that gas cylinder lock is too long to allow enough threads to be cut into the barrel. I have an extra that I purchased that I think can be cut to allow enough length for threading. In the picture below the muzzle on the left has a small shelf under it from the gas lock screw. I don't think that gas lock screw 'lip' actually contacts the barrel and needs to be present. If the lock screw can be cut then the barrel will have enough exposed to allow it to be threaded. I measured from the crown to the end of the gas lock screw and it was .670" long. From the muzzle to the lip of the screw was closer to 0.3" and much too short to allow it to have enough threads for a mount to be seated.


    So, are there any suggestions on where to go to have a barrel that's off the rifle threaded? Then it'll need headspaced and finish reamed to .308. There's very little documentation about the few rifles that others have done but apparently it can be done and I'd like to do it.

  2. #2
    Grandmaster Rookie's Avatar

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    ZR Tactical in Noblesville.

  3. #3
    Sharpshooter Scuba591's Avatar

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    I'll 2nd ZR tactical. they have done a few 10/22 barrels for me.

  4. #4
    Sharpshooter

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    I'm pretty happy with my OSS suppressor.
    I switch it between my SR25, M1A & bolt rifles.

    There was a suppressed M1 at the machine gun shoot this spring, but I didn't take a good look at it, don't know what they used or how they did it.

  5. #5
    laf
    laf is offline
    Plinker

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    Thanks for the replies! I'll give ZR Tactical a call and see if this a project they're interested in pursing with me.

    I've been interested in the OSS equipment, but I've already got a .30 cal Phantom TI from YHM that I'll be using for this project. Seems to be a few of the suppressed Garands out there, just mysterious on what they did to get it running.

  6. #6
    Sharpshooter

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    I picked OSS because NO FACE BLASTING on the SR25, doesn't screw with the gas system at all.
    Guys shooting full auto don't see the cyclic rate increase, no gas in the face, and I don't have to adjust gas or rounds on my semi-autos.
    It also takes full power rounds without eating itself and it cleans easy.

    It doesn't screw with zero much either.

  7. #7
    Grandmaster Disposable Heart's Avatar

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    You're going to DEFINITELY need an adjustable gas block and will be spending alot of time attaching and detaching the can to get it tuned, but once you do... it will be an awesome project!
    It's over for now... it seems... until yesterday begins again...tomorrow...

  8. #8
    laf
    laf is offline
    Plinker

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    I've called around to a few places and nobody wants to touch this start to finish. Can't say I blame them since it's not common, but who wouldn't want to say they built one? So I'm going to one place to have the barrel threaded. I'll chop off the gas cylinder lock lip area that extends out over the barrel myself. I do have a Schuster adjustable gas plug on order and will be using that for sure. I have it on my Garand that I use for plinking and the plug does what it says it does very well. I ordered a new QD brake from YHM in 1/2x28 for the 30 cal cans so nobody accidentally puts a 5.56 can on it. I had thought about using a repurposed 5.56 flash hider QD mount drilled out but "safety third" and all. Another place will have to headspace and finish ream the barrel once it's threaded. Right now there's nothing to show off but as it gets assembled I'll post pictures.

  9. #9
    Plinker AlVine's Avatar

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    This sounds very cool. I’d think on a Garand with a Schuster plug it would be easy to open the plug so the action doesn’t cycle, for really quiet subsonic loads.

  10. #10
    laf
    laf is offline
    Plinker

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    I've collected most of the parts necessary to start this project now. I've got the barrel in from Criterion in .308 Win. I've got a 1/2-28 brake from YHM. Interesting note about that brake is it's the same length as my .223 flash hider. I thought the .30 cal stuff was supposed to be longer to prevent you from threading a .223 can on it and ending up with a problem. But it's got a .30 cal hole so it'll be safe to shoot for me. The Schuster adjustable gas plug so I can dial the gas way down. I got a new old stock gas cylinder lock that I cut the lip off of using a hacksaw.

    Threading the gas lock on the barrel and gas plug comes close to the thread minimums for rifle specs. I'm not sure if it will actually make it or not. My calipers say there's .613 inches and YHM wants .620 plus another .060 for shoulder. I know I don't have that space. Not sure what to do about that, cut the shoulder space and thread what's left and call it good? The specs for pistols are much shorter, .400 plus .060 for the shoulder but a lot less pressure too.

    IMG_6439.jpg

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