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Thread: 1911 build

  1. #81
    I still care....Really
    churchmouse's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by johny5 View Post
    Patience I have. I need to develop some skill with the file.

    Marking the pin with a punch is a good idea. Will need to keep that in mind.

    Also, the finish on the ejector was flaking off. I am surprised. All the other bits I have gotten from Wilson Combat have been good.
    EGW or Shooters supply. I stopped using Wilson a few years ago.

    And get a set of files. Use the round one in these areas for a solid purchase.
    AKA..Thor. Odin son. God of thunder.
    But you can call me John.....Force.

    If the brain were so simple we could understand it, we would be so simple we couldn’t

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  2. #82
    Diamond Collision Inc. Avon. AllenM's Avatar

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    https://dawsonprecision.com/ejector-...for-1911-2011/

    These are set to turn in reverse, it helps pull the ejector down while you drill
    07 FFL / SOT 2

    "Corn Pop was a bad dude" Biden

  3. #83
    Grandmaster drillsgt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by AllenM View Post
    https://dawsonprecision.com/ejector-...for-1911-2011/

    These are set to turn in reverse, it helps pull the ejector down while you drill
    Now this could have made life a whole lot easier.

  4. #84
    I still care....Really
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    Quote Originally Posted by drillsgt View Post
    Now this could have made life a whole lot easier.
    I have a full set of reverse drills but never thought to use them here. I have a machine vice with some seriously wide jaws that is pretty handy at holding the frame and ejector. .
    AKA..Thor. Odin son. God of thunder.
    But you can call me John.....Force.

    If the brain were so simple we could understand it, we would be so simple we couldn’t

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  5. #85
    Grandmaster drillsgt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by johny5 View Post
    Got the Ejector installed. Had to cut the relief in it for the pin. This was more of a challenge than I expected (to do with any level of precision. I cut it with a small file. For any future builds, I will look for pre-cut ejectors. I am not sure what the advantage would be of doing this oneself. I get fitting the barrel, thumb-safety, rails, bushing, etc. But, the ejector? Seems like the chances of cutting that to a better fit with a small file is unlikely.

    What am I missing?
    I don't know too many ejectors that would be pre-cut, I saw one SPFD that looked like it but you wouldn't want to use that one anyway. CM described it pretty well, it's one of those things like fitting a safety, it's not that hard but easy to mess up. I do it the same way, put the ejector in and mark it with a pin punch, the key is where you start your cut since your file is going to be much larger than the pin diameter. I always start above the mark so I make sure the bottom of my cut coincides with the bottom radius of my punch mark. It doesn't matter how much you cut above the punch mark just so the bottom of the cut is snug with the ejector pin. If you do it the opposite way or just run your file straight over the punch mark that is what allows the ejector to move up and down. About the only Wilson parts I will use anymore are the beavertails, they give a nice fit, otherwise i've pretty much moved on to Harrison Design parts by John Harrison.

  6. #86
    Plinker

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    Preferred tool for staking the front sight? Brownells has one that looks decent for $50. Thoughts?

  7. #87
    Plinker

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    Quote Originally Posted by drillsgt View Post
    I don't know too many ejectors that would be pre-cut, I saw one SPFD that looked like it but you wouldn't want to use that one anyway. CM described it pretty well, it's one of those things like fitting a safety, it's not that hard but easy to mess up. I do it the same way, put the ejector in and mark it with a pin punch, the key is where you start your cut since your file is going to be much larger than the pin diameter. I always start above the mark so I make sure the bottom of my cut coincides with the bottom radius of my punch mark. It doesn't matter how much you cut above the punch mark just so the bottom of the cut is snug with the ejector pin. If you do it the opposite way or just run your file straight over the punch mark that is what allows the ejector to move up and down. About the only Wilson parts I will use anymore are the beavertails, they give a nice fit, otherwise i've pretty much moved on to Harrison Design parts by John Harrison.
    Really appreciate the clarification from you and CM. I was pretty frustrated after spending so much time on the ejector and getting a fit that I was not satisfied with.

  8. #88
    Grandmaster drillsgt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by johny5 View Post
    Really appreciate the clarification from you and CM. I was pretty frustrated after spending so much time on the ejector and getting a fit that I was not satisfied with.
    As 1911 parts go ejectors are not that expensive you could redo it easy enough.

  9. #89
    Grandmaster drillsgt's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by johny5 View Post
    Preferred tool for staking the front sight? Brownells has one that looks decent for $50. Thoughts?
    That one has been around for years but i've never used it, I have an older MMC tool later marketed by Trijicon but I think now discontinued.

    https://www.firearmsnews.com/editori...nt-sight/78176

    With that Brownells tool being 50.00 it'd probably be better to just get the slide to AllenM and have a novak dovetail cut.

  10. #90
    Plinker

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    Quote Originally Posted by drillsgt View Post
    With that Brownells tool being 50.00 it'd probably be better to just get the slide to AllenM and have a novak dovetail cut.
    These were listed as novak front and rear. However the front site still has a hole in it. It had to be pressed in with a sight pusher. Do it still need to be staked? I feel silly asking, but hey - first time.


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