GP100 hammer bob & hammer spring

[Grelber]

Don't know if I would reduce d.a. pull much if any by taking weight off of the hammer. I know it works with Smiths but the actions seem to be apples and oranges. Any experience would be very interesting to hear.


Other question, want to play with minimum hammer spring force, assuming you do not cut the spring too short to have tension when the hammer is fully forward, is there any disadvantage to cutting down say a 12# spring versus cutting down a 9# spring? Running a 9# which appears to be more than I need, could save a few bucks by cutting on the 10# and 12# springs I have rather than buying more 9's or finding a lower weight somewhere.

 

[Bosshoss]

Lighting the hammer won't reduce the trigger pull weight at all. It allows you to reduce the spring pressure while maintaining reliability.
Same physics apply to Rugers as S&W or Colts.

Yes you can shorten heavier springs and get a similar pull weight. My experience is the difference between 100% reliability and misfires can be half a coil so it can be touchy.
if you get one two short you can put shims on the strut to add some tension back.

Careful with Ruger's they won't sell you parts if you mess them up. That is why I don't usually work on them.

FWIW several years ago I played around with one of my competition S&W guns that with my lightened hammer and a trigger pull just under 6 pounds and NO light strikes in 30K rounds. I put a full hammer in the gun and didn't change anything else. Fired 300 rounds and had a light strike ratio of about 5% if I recall correctly.

Miss you at the matches. Hope you hurry back as all the crap my wife used to give you she gives to me now.

 

[Simon6101]

If you are just trying to get a better trigger pull and maybe lighter check out MCarbo. They have a video on Youtube of exactly what to polish with Flitz. I followed the video, and bought their springs and shims and it made my GP100 a joy to shoot. If you are ever around Indy send me a message and you are welcome to check it out.

 

[Grelber]

Lighting the hammer won't reduce the trigger pull weight at all. It allows you to reduce the spring pressure while maintaining reliability.
Same physics apply to Rugers as S&W or Colts.

Yes you can shorten heavier springs and get a similar pull weight. My experience is the difference between 100% reliability and misfires can be half a coil so it can be touchy.
if you get one two short you can put shims on the strut to add some tension back.


FWIW several years ago I played around with one of my competition S&W guns that with my lightened hammer and a trigger pull just under 6 pounds and NO light strikes in 30K rounds. I put a full hammer in the gun and didn't change anything else. Fired 300 rounds and had a light strike ratio of about 5% if I recall correctly.

Miss you at the matches. Hope you hurry back as all the crap my wife used to give you she gives to me now.

Great info, and I thank you. Particularly like the hammer weight versus ignition testing info.
The physics of a heavy hammer that absorbs energy from the spring more efficiently versus a light hammer that absorbs less energy from the spring but reaches a higher speed, have always confused me. On my Tanfoglio the big kids seem to go with heavier than stock hammers but on my 929 that was set up by the best (thanks!) the light hammer works well.

Playing around with the heavier springs at first will save me a buck or two.

Plan to start getting braver about large groups in July, until then please extend my highest regards to the mouthy one .

If you are just trying to get a better trigger pull and maybe lighter check out MCarbo. They have a video on Youtube of exactly what to polish with Flitz. I followed the video, and bought their springs and shims and it made my GP100 a joy to shoot. If you are ever around Indy send me a message and you are welcome to check it out.

Thanks! I have done the Mcarbo treatment on my 2 GP100's and I agree with you that it makes a huge improvement, for a $20.00 investment it is a steal. I'm trying to go lighter than their lightest (9#) hammer spring right now to see where I can get to using soft deep seated federal primers, the kit left me at about 7 3/4# double action with stock hammers. It appears from looking at primer indentation that I have room for improvement.

 

[Simon6101]

I followed his video about changing the springs, adding shims and polishing the internals where metal meets metal and my DA pull is right at 5lbs now.

 

[Grelber]

I followed his video about changing the springs, adding shims and polishing the internals where metal meets metal and my DA pull is right at 5lbs now.

5 is by far the best I have heard of outside of the Mcarbo video, the 2nd best was 6.5 .

 

[Drail]

Getting a nice trigger pull in double action on a Ruger GP or Redhawk is more about removing all of the huge burrs Ruger leaves in their guns than lightening springs. You will never get a Ruger DA pull as nice as you can a S&W because the parts geometry is completely different but you can gain some improvement. On a new Ruger revolver trigger job I have to spend most of one evening just finding and stoning off the burrs. They're everywhere.

 

[sloughfoot]

Lightening springs work great until the temperature drops. You will be better off strengthening your trigger fingers.