Glock trigger polish job

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  • beer leaguer

    Plinker
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    Feb 19, 2020
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    Is anyone here good at the glock trigger polishing? I don't have a Glock, but a Sar9 which might be a bit similar. Id like to smooth the trigger a bit. I'm not confident enough at this point to disassemble. Can you recommend anyone, or does anyone here want to do it for a fee?
     

    NHT3

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    I work on Glock triggers regularly but have no interest in trying to disassemble a SAR9. I think you will find it a little more complicated than a Glock but everything is more complicated than a Glock. As long as you just polish mating surfaces you should be ok but understand the difference between grinding and polishing. Good luck
     

    beer leaguer

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    I work on Glock triggers regularly but have no interest in trying to disassemble a SAR9. I think you will find it a little more complicated than a Glock but everything is more complicated than a Glock. As long as you just polish mating surfaces you should be ok but understand the difference between grinding and polishing. Good luck
    Thank you
     

    bwframe

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    Dry firing is really great for developing and maintaining shooting skills.

    I'd bet that trigger would smooth out considerably after many thousand dry fires? Especially if you added a bit of powder residue from actual range fire every chance you get?
     

    r6vr6

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    I think the key is just to polish by hand. I did my G19 with a qtip and mother's metal polish. I think people get into trouble when they try to use a dremel. You aren't trying to change any geometry just make the surfaces smooth. Look up 25 cent trigger job on youtube for a glock tutorial.
     

    gregkl

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    If you just polish the surface with some type of polish to make is shiny, your not doing much. Parts should be stoned to smooth off the rough spots first. Then polish.

    It's like polishing a car. If you use a clay bar first, you get all the stuck on "stuff" off. Then you follow up with the buffer and polish to a high shine.

    Forgo the clay bar and you will still get some shine, but the buffer will just ride over the "stuff" leaving not as smooth of a surface.

    Stoning can be intimidating, but the key is lightly. A few passes with a smooth stone is all I do, then for kicks I Flitz it to a mirror finish. Looks great, smooths the trigger and lowers the trigger weight without changing springs.
     

    r6vr6

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    In my case for a carry pistol I was happy with just the polish and the results were noticeable. I would be weary of every joe bob stoning their trigger. I would say that would be a recipe for a bunch of NDs. Sure people that are careful and have an understanding of what is going on is fine but that isn't the majority.
     

    gregkl

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    In my case for a carry pistol I was happy with just the polish and the results were noticeable. I would be weary of every joe bob stoning their trigger. I would say that would be a recipe for a bunch of NDs. Sure people that are careful and have an understanding of what is going on is fine but that isn't the majority.

    Good point.

    However, I am not talking about stoning the sear interface. I don't touch those. I leave that up to the pros, if at all.

    I only work the trigger interfaces.
     
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    bwframe

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    Not knocking anyone or any brands, but a lot of the reason I went Glock when I moved to striker fired guns is popularity and thus information.

    Tons of YouTube's, forum posts, sites, etc. dedicated to this simple procedure to smooth up the factory trigger.

    Kinda like buying the most sold Ford or Chevy. Lots and lots of information, accessories and aftermarket readily available.

    No trail blazing, guessing or trial and error necessary. :twocents:
     
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    indyartisan

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    Not knocking anyone or any brands, but a lot of the reason I went Glock when I moved to striker fired guns is popularity and thus information.

    Tons of YouTube's, forum posts, sites, etc. dedicated to this simple procedure to smooth up the factory trigger.

    Kinda like buying the most sold Ford or Chevy. Lots and lots of information, accessories and aftermarket readily available.

    This^ and they were one of the better choices for a southpaw at the time.
     

    gregkl

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    Not knocking anyone or any brands, but a lot of the reason I went Glock when I moved to striker fired guns is popularity and thus information.

    Tons of YouTube's, forum posts, sites, etc. dedicated to this simple procedure to smooth up the factory trigger.

    Kinda like buying the most sold Ford or Chevy. Lots and lots of information, accessories and aftermarket readily available.

    No trail blazing, guessing or trial and error necessary. :twocents:

    If I wasn't so invested in the M&P line, I would have Glocks. I don't own any but I usually recommend them when people ask me about what to buy.

    I think the idea of trying and finding the perfect "fit" is overrated. A new shooter who buys a Glock and only shoots that will get used to the grip feel and angle. They will be fine. It's when people start buying multiple guns and shoot whatever they feel like that day that get conflicted. If they stick with one platform and train, they will do well.
     

    JHB

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    A couple of passes with a fine Arkansas stone on the ramp of the vertical extension ( the part of the trigger bar that contacts the striker block ). Then a drop of oil between the birds beak and the connector per Glocks lube instructions that is all you need.
     

    gregkl

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    A couple of passes with a fine Arkansas stone on the ramp of the vertical extension ( the part of the trigger bar that contacts the striker block ). Then a drop of oil between the birds beak and the connector per Glocks lube instructions that is all you need.

    If I understand you right, this is what I do on my Smiths. I work the trigger bar wherever it makes contact with steel and for Smith's I put the Apex USB in. That's all I do. I even run the factory trigger.

    On another note, I just pulled the slide on mine. I need to clean it!:):
     

    worddoer

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    I think the key is just to polish by hand. I did my G19 with a qtip and mother's metal polish. I think people get into trouble when they try to use a dremel. You aren't trying to change any geometry just make the surfaces smooth. Look up 25 cent trigger job on youtube for a glock tutorial.

    This is a pretty safe way to go.

    I use Q-tips and Brasso metal polish. It takes some time, but I don't have to be concerned with damaging any components or making my trigger unsafe.
     

    worddoer

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    If I wasn't so invested in the M&P line, I would have Glocks. I don't own any but I usually recommend them when people ask me about what to buy.

    I posted this in another thread, but felt it fits here.....

    I am a Glock guy as I got invested with piles of mags and accessories 10-15 years ago. If I had to start over, I would be torn between a Gen 5 Glock 19, P320 Compact, or M&P 2.0 Compact. They are all excellent guns and all will serve you well.
     

    JHB

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    If I understand you right, this is what I do on my Smiths. I work the trigger bar wherever it makes contact with steel and for Smith's I put the Apex USB in. That's all I do. I even run the factory trigger.

    On another note, I just pulled the slide on mine. I need to clean it!:):

    The only thing that polishing does is make it shiny. Yes you can make a rough surface shine. Rough surfaces that contact each other need smoothing to the point that the high spots slide over the low spots on the opposing part with out dipping into the low spots. The low spots hold oil.

    Too flat and a high polish defeats the purpose the oil has no place to stay and is forced out. The next thing the parts will lock up
     
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    gregkl

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    The only thing that polishing does is make it shiny. Yes you can make a rough surface shine. Rough surfaces that contact each other need smoothing to the point that the high spots slide over the low spots on the opposing part with out dipping into the low spots. The low spots hold oil.

    Yup. That was my analogy of using a clay bar on a car. Knock just the high spots off. If you do it for awhile, you can feel it when the stone slides across the smoothed out steel. Doesn't take much in my experience.
     

    gregkl

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    I posted this in another thread, but felt it fits here.....

    I was watching John Lovell review the M&P. He basically said the opposite of me. If he wasn't so invested in Glock, he could see himself rocking the M&P.

    I agree, all excellent guns. I really like the concept of the P320 series.
     
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