School me on M&P triggers

[ryan3030]

It seems there are a lot of options for aftermarket triggers on the M&P. Even Apex offers some different paths.

What's the best way to go? What do I need to get? I really want a smoother, preferably lighter, trigger in this gun.

 

[USMC-Johnson]

Apex forward set sear or the duty carry kit. If your pistol will accept the reset assist mechanism spend the 20 and do it while your in there

 

[NHT3]

Apex FFS and far as lightening what ever Apex trigger spring you prefer.. I went with the full meal deal in both of mine one having the competition trigger spring and the other with the 3.5 pound spring.. If you haven't had one apart it might be a good idea to have someone that has done one and has the proper tools do the job.


[FONT=&quot]NRA Life Member[/FONT][FONT=&quot]-- [/FONT][FONT=&quot]GSSF member[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Ruger MK III, M&P & 1911mechanic [FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]NRA Basic pistol instructor[FONT=&quot] –[/FONT] Certified Glock armorer

 

[chezuki]

This guy seems to have a decent understanding of Apex parts...

Here's a break down:

DCAEK-"Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit"= utimate striker block w/spring (removes grit and smooths pull), hard sear w/spring (removes over travel, lowers pull weight, and slightly improves reset), duty/carry trigger return spring (raises trigger pull back up some to meet duty standards)

CompAEK-"Competetion Action Enhancement Kit"= utimate striker block w/spring (removes grit and smooths pull), hard sear w/spring (removes over travel, lowers pull weight, and slightly improves reset), lighter comp trigger return spring (further reduces pull), and comp striker spring (also reduces pull weight).

The Aluminum AEK trigger was designed to replace the stock hinged trigger if desired and can be used in conjunction with any combination of factory parts or the above kits but is not to be confused with the FSS which outwardly looks very similar.

RAM- "Reset Assist Mechanism"= an optional kit that "improves" tactile/audible trigger reset. If you are prefer a "Glockish" trigger, this will make you feel right at home. Coming from a Glock myself, I planned on installing one but never got around to it. After getting used to the platform, I no longer think the RAM is necessary.

FSS- "Front Set Sear"= completely different trigger group, springs and sear than and not compatable with the others. Totally changes the geometry of the pull and moves the break point much further forward with very little pre or over travel. Feels almost like a single action trigger. There are both aluminum and plastic versions of this trigger.

Hope this helps.

 

[AngryRooster]

Chezuki pretty much nailed it. There are several ways to go with the Apex depending on what you want. Where in East central are you. I have the DCAEK installed in my M&P9 if you want to compare it to your standard one before you buy. The Apex parts are worth the price.

 

[Steve B]

I have 2 with the FSS and wouldn't have it any other way.

 

[FishnHunt]

I have 2 with the FSS and wouldn't have it any other way.

I have the FSS in my M&P for 3gun and love it. Apex also just released a flat trigger similar to the FSS - https://apextactical.com/store/product-info.php?pid87.html

ETA: Video Review

[video=youtube_share;qD14Dmocthg]http://youtu.be/qD14Dmocthg[/video]

 

[THE BIG SITT]

This guy seems to have a decent understanding of Apex parts...

Not to be that guy but I think they call it "Forward Set Sear" as opposed to "Front Set Sear".

 

[PRasko]

First, how old is your M&P? and what model?

The newer full sized and compacts manufactured in 2014 have the performance center sear in them, which in my opinion, is magnitudes better then the apex.

The apex trigger system has creep in it, or as they call it a "rolling break", which some like, but I prefer a crisp break.

If you want to try to lighten your pull first before installing apex, polish the rear sear face and striker block. It will drop your pull a lot.

 

[horsehaulin]

I have the FSS in one of mine and installing the Flatty in my other when it gets here and putting a trigger in my Shield. Wouldn't carry a gun without Apex in it, if it's a Smith.

 

[TheWabbit]

I have the DCAEK and Polymer AEK trigger in my M&P 45.

 

[minx]

First, how old is your M&P? and what model?

The newer full sized and compacts manufactured in 2014 have the performance center sear in them, which in my opinion, is magnitudes better then the apex.

The apex trigger system has creep in it, or as they call it a "rolling break", which some like, but I prefer a crisp break.

If you want to try to lighten your pull first before installing apex, polish the rear sear face and striker block. It will drop your pull a lot.

Is the 2014 trigger not gritty? I have not tried any 2014.

 

[gregkl]

Does the FFS kit put you in a different division for games like IDPA, USPSA and 3-gun?

 

[Dorky_D]

DAEK and aluminum trigger = awesome!

 

[FishnHunt]

Does the FFS kit put you in a different division for games like IDPA, USPSA and 3-gun?

It will place you in Limited for USPSA, I believe. It's considered an "external modification". The rest of the kits would not matter, as far as I know.

Edit to add: it doesn't have an effect for 3 gun, don't know about IDPA.

 

[PRasko]

Is the 2014 trigger not gritty? I have not tried any 2014.

Gritty trigger pull comes from an unpolished trigger bar hitting an unpolished striker block.

Can be fixed in 20 minutes with a polishing job, or you can spend 1000+ rounds and accomplish the same task.

I chose to polish it.

My 2012 full sized had the "false reset" as I called it, where the trigger bar would release the striker block before the actual reset. This was remedied with rounding and polishing the striker block. It sits at around 5lbs.

My 2014 compact had a VERY heavy trigger pull from the factory, to the point I thought it was one of the 10lb compliant guns. Initially measured at 7.5 lbs. After polishing the sear, striker block, and trigger bar it dropped to around 4.5 lbs.

Both have clean crisp breaks, no creep that I can feel, and very little over travel on the full sized because it has the old sear and s stamped trigger bar. I could probably remove this by adjusting the trigger bar loop, but it doesn't bother me.

 

[gregkl]

Gritty trigger pull comes from an unpolished trigger bar hitting an unpolished striker block.

Can be fixed in 20 minutes with a polishing job, or you can spend 1000+ rounds and accomplish the same task.

I chose to polish it.

My 2012 full sized had the "false reset" as I called it, where the trigger bar would release the striker block before the actual reset. This was remedied with rounding and polishing the striker block. It sits at around 5lbs.

My 2014 compact had a VERY heavy trigger pull from the factory, to the point I thought it was one of the 10lb compliant guns. Initially measured at 7.5 lbs. After polishing the sear, striker block, and trigger bar it dropped to around 4.5 lbs.

Both have clean crisp breaks, no creep that I can feel, and very little over travel on the full sized because it has the old sear and s stamped trigger bar. I could probably remove this by adjusting the trigger bar loop, but it doesn't bother me.

How do they make the trigger bar now?

 

[PRasko]

How do they make the trigger bar now?

By S stamped trigger bar I meant the revision. Not how it's produced.

The latest revision of trigger bar is H stamped.

 

[ryan3030]

This guy seems to have a decent understanding of Apex parts...

So in my case I want a smoother, lighter pull with minimal grit and a new trigger face.

Would it be smarter to buy the FSS kit or to get the CompAEK + Aluminum AEK trigger?

 

[AngryRooster]

So in my case I want a smoother, lighter pull with minimal grit and a new trigger face.

Would it be smarter to buy the FSS kit or to get the CompAEK + Aluminum AEK trigger?

Both will give you a lighter and smoother pull. I found this. It compares them both and shows the difference in pull.

[video=youtube;qAR84YQ84dg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAR84YQ84dg[/video]