Sig guys Ive got a question.

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  • Tomahawkman

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    So there may be a thread already on this but I couldn't find one. maybe I overlooked it so if there is please point me in that direction.

    I do not own a sig but have been looking into them. primarily the p226.

    From what I understand the sig p226 navy has a mil spec 1913 rail unlike the regular p226 that uses sigs version of the rail.
    My question is I guess if I intend to mount a TLR-1 or X300 on my gun am I better off buying one over the other? Or do they work the same for both lights on either gun?
    Are both lights going to fit both versions as they are suppose to fit?

    Also is the difference in rail dimension when a light is added enough to interfere with holsters?
    For example.. If I have a normal sig 226 with a TLR-1 and I have a kydex holster for that. would a 226 navy with the 1913 rail and a TLR-1 fit that holster the same?

    Again sorry if this has been asked recently I couldn't find the thread.

    Thanks.
     
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    wassup61

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    I have a TLR-1 mounted on a MK25 with the 1913 rail. It does work!

    Holsters, especially kydex, require additional heating to reform to the rail (without light); however, most retention holsters index to the light or trigger guard, thus the rail doesnt matter
     

    M67

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    I'm not huge into rails, one reason why I got my M11A1 and always have liked the 239s. The M11 has been great and 100% as a suppressor host

    Doesn't really help answer your question though
     

    BehindBlueI's

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    Lights mount fine to the standard Sig rail. I've used the rail on my P220 and it's fine.

    I doubt you'll have light bearing holster issues. Some holsters may not work sans light, though.

    Other than cool factor, there is no compelling reason to buy the Navy if you aren't playing in salt water. I would look for a Nitron with night sights and the Short Reset Trigger, an elite, or an Equinox, personally.
     

    gregkl

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    Okay, so I admit this may be a thread drift but every time I start looking at Sig 9mm's, I get overwhelmed with the choices. What about the SAO models compared to the decocker models? And I think I want one with the extended beavertail so that narrows it down a bit.

    What do you guys like an dislike? I am used to 1911's and I don't care for bulky grip frames. I like my M&P as far as fit to my hand, but I just can't get excited about the striker trigger. Plus, I think the Sigs are arguably the best combat pistols out there.
     

    BehindBlueI's

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    Okay, so I admit this may be a thread drift but every time I start looking at Sig 9mm's, I get overwhelmed with the choices. What about the SAO models compared to the decocker models? And I think I want one with the extended beavertail so that narrows it down a bit.

    What do you guys like an dislike? I am used to 1911's and I don't care for bulky grip frames. I like my M&P as far as fit to my hand, but I just can't get excited about the striker trigger. Plus, I think the Sigs are arguably the best combat pistols out there.

    IMO, the extended beavertail is mostly for cosmetics and to make 1911 guys feel comfy. Sig's do not bite you with the hammer. You cannot hold them high enough to need it or you're almost certainly going to hit the slide lock with your thumb and keep it from locking back on an empty magazine (the biggest issue when transitioning from 1911 to Sig, IMO). It was the primary reason I did not buy an elite. The standard "mini beavertail" frame has never been an issue for me on any Sig.

    I don't have any experience with the SAO models. If I wanted to carry a SAO (or rather if I were allowed to carry an SAO) I would carry a 1911. Part of the appeal to me is the DA/SA. I like the extra layer of safety of the longer heavier trigger without having to worry about an external safety. Pulling from the holster I don't see any difference in speed or accuracy on the pull as I prep the trigger during the draw stroke and let it break as I reach extension. Then I'm in SA mode for what I believe is quicker followup shot potential. I also have the option to thumb cock if I need to take that 75y shot or what have you.
     

    Tomahawkman

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    Thanks for the answers, Another question I have is Has anyone took an original sig grip and done the conversion to the E2 grips using the conversion kit sig sells, and is this relatively easy to do by yourself?
     

    sbu sailor

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    Lights mount fine to the standard Sig rail. I've used the rail on my P220 and it's fine.

    I doubt you'll have light bearing holster issues. Some holsters may not work sans light, though.

    Other than cool factor, there is no compelling reason to buy the Navy if you aren't playing in salt water. I would look for a Nitron with night sights and the Short Reset Trigger, an elite, or an Equinox, personally.

    That SRT will spoil you!

    There are a few upgrades worth noting beyond "cool factor"... but BBI is basically right; unless you plan to dive in the ocean with it, the price point doesn't justify it for me. If you get the Navy, look to IMI and Comp-Tac for model specific holsters. The geometry of the rail differences means not all holsters will work with both. (I stole the pic from sigtalk.com... lotsa good info over there.)

    View attachment 38471
     

    OutdoorDad

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    So back to the original post...

    1) should you get a navy 226?
    absolutely- in my experience, it is the most reliable, accurate, and dependable handgun ever designed.
    If something goes "bump in the night" at my house, they will be met by me- and 46 rnds of 9mm +p. ( that's 15+1 and two 15 mags as reloads).
    2) what is the best light to mount on the rail of a 226?
    none- in my experience, there are a lot of things I'd like to illuminate; but don't intend to destroy. And there are things like thugs and ner do wells that I'd just as soon encounter without letting them know I'm armed and in the room. I feel no obligation to shout a warning or shine a light on someone who has entered my home in the middle of the night.
    3) what light fits best in a holster?
    none- see above.

    I have a fair number of handguns. The vast majority are SIG. I own a good variety of rifles and carbines. (Not a shotgun to be found in my house-I probably need a few :rolleyes:) I have different calibres and configurations to choose from. Some are more fun to shoot than others. Some have more recoil, some have less.

    But when I'm pressed to put precise, damaging holes in things at ranges from 2-20 yds, I'm not reaching for my S&W models 41, 22a, or 422 or anything with Anschluss written on it.

    Im not going to try to pie a door with an AR in .223 or .308 or any pistol calibre carbine.

    And the subcompacts like 938, 238 etc are loads of fun, conceal well and will stay next to full frame 5" 1911's if something goes "bump".

    At the end of the day, I think this explains my confidence best...
    During my last range trip with my 10 year old, she remarked I wasn't hitting bulls eyes. I started to explain how I wasn't shooting handguns with the same objectives she had for her 22 rifle...

    But I realized she had a point. So I loaded the last four rounds of 9mm I had left into a magazine. And put three of them into separate 1/2 inch birch wood Casey dots at 21 feet. ( I pulled the third shot by a full inch but redeemed myself on the fourth round)


    Trick shooting? Nope. Olympic calibre? Nope. Outshoot anyone reading this? Maybe one or two. But not most.


    But in my house, late at night... the SIG 226 is what will be what I reach for to protect my family with confidence.
     

    VERT

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    I have had a StreamLight TLR-1 mounted on a couple different P226s. Have one on my nightstand right now. They fit the rail fine. There are advantages and disadvantages to a weapon mounted light. That's why I keep a Handheld next to the gun.
     

    wassup61

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    I have had a StreamLight TLR-1 mounted on a couple different P226s. Have one on my nightstand right now. They fit the rail fine. There are advantages and disadvantages to a weapon mounted light. That's why I keep a Handheld next to the gun.

    Would like to see what I am about to shoot. Without proper target identification, I'd be wary of sending lead downrange. Let there be light!
     

    shootersix

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    Thanks for the answers, Another question I have is Has anyone took an original sig grip and done the conversion to the E2 grips using the conversion kit sig sells, and is this relatively easy to do by yourself?

    i have 5 sigs, and 3 have hogue grips(220,226,239) one has the factory grips(220 because its a heel release, and i cant find/dont want to pay 100.00 for replacement grips), and one has the original factory grips(m11a1)

    now of all the grips on my sigs, the best factory grips are the one's on the m11a1, its not the e2 grip, but close, its a semi sand paper type,not too rough, not too smooth, you dont need to change out any parts, and you dont need a special tool to remove them(i hear its pretty easy to change out to the e2 grips, but you do have to change out parts), and if you ever detail strip and clean your guns, i dont think the factory installed e2 grips come with the removal tool

    i hate to say "base model" but the base model sig 226 (the nitron) comes with the e2 grips, and it does feel good in the hand,kind of like my m11a1, but you get a higher grip, and its slimer, so you get more finger wrap around, and if you have small hands(like me) you might like that, but i also like the hogue grip panel
    SIG Sauer P226 Rubber Panels Black | Hogue Inc. i have them on my 220 amd my 226, and im thinking about them on my m11a1

    now my 239 has the ones with the finger groves SIG Sauer P239 Rubber grip with Finger Grooves Black | Hogue Inc. and i like them on that gun, but not on my bigger sigs.

    the best advice i can give you, shoot them both, shoot a friends, if none of your friends have a sig, make friends on ingo, its a great site!
     

    USMC-Johnson

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    Safariland does now make a 6378 that will fit the mk25 right out of the box. no heating or remolding or anything.

    I love mine...11k rounds down the pipe and never an issue.
     

    Rockhopper

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    Just a few notes from me.

    I have a Mk25 (fde), M11A1, and a P227 Nitron. I am a recent convert to the Sigs, the Mk25 was my first and I got it around Christmas. I have been carrying a Glock 30SF for two years.

    I have a TLR-2 HL which came with interchangeable keys for various rails, as well as the tools (hex keys) to change them. It worked great with the 1913 key for the Mk25, and I now have it on the 227 with the "glock/universal" key. I just got the 227 and have only about 50 rounds through it, but the light has remained solid on the rail thus far.

    For the Mk25, I have the Safariland that USMC-Johnson mentioned above. I also have the Serpa that fits railed 226's (410006BK-R), but the front end of the rail rubs ever so slightly. I bet it would work great with a little shaving using a Dremel or maybe even a soldering iron. Serpa 410005BK-R is perfect for the M11A1. I don't have a holster yet for the 227, but open to suggestions, particularly with the TLR-2 installed.

    DA/SA. I want to echo BehindBlueI's. I like the DA option, it makes for a nice safety feature for me. I still need alot of practice transitioning between the DA and SA, particularly as the mk25 does not have the SRT, but the other two do.

    Grips. I put the Hogue Extreme G10 Piranha's (green) on the Mk25, looks very nice and I love the texture. I really dig the E2's on the 227 as well.
     
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