A Simple Bore Rating Question

[Libertarian01]

I am thinking of getting an olde M1911a1 model, circa 1931.

I have asked the seller about the bore and answer was "it is rated at +7."

Is this good or bad? What does it mean?

Thanks,

Doug

 

[patience0830]

Thought we were gonna debate the relative merits of Rhino-vs-ATM and their ability to interest us.

 

[walt o]

Are you getting it as a shooter or collection piece ? new barrels are readily available Never heard of that rating on a barrel ,usually clean no pits good rifling , frosted bore , light pits , pitted .some rifling

 

[Libertarian01]

Are you getting it as a shooter or collection piece ? new barrels are readily available Never heard of that rating on a barrel ,usually clean no pits good rifling , frosted bore , light pits , pitted .some rifling

"Shooter or collection piece?" = BOTH! I won't buy a gun that I am afraid to shoot.

I have heard the descriptive words you used, but never a +7. That said, there are many things I am truly ignorant about which is why I asked.

Thanks for reminding me of the words.

Doug

PS - Still looking for what a +7 might mean...?

 

[Thor]

NRA Museums:

By plus seven maybe he's implying the bore is about 70%+ . If you plan on shooting maybe do what Walt implied and pick up another barrel for shooting, returning it to original is a matter of minutes.

 

[Thor]

On another forum I found this from years ago...a glossary of terms for antique gun collectors.

Glossary of Terms used to describe old Guns

MINT CONDITION: Factory new, all original.

MINTY CONDITION: Same as above, except for the scattered pitting.

GOOD FOR ITS AGE: NRA poor to horrible.

SHOWS HONEST USE: A piece of junk.

SHOWS WEAR & USE: What is not worn paper thin is missing or broken.

GOOD REPRESENTATIVE PIECE: Almost looks like a gun.

ROUGH CONDITION: The outline of this rustball looks like it might have been a gun.

FANCY & GENUINELY OLD: made in Hong Kong prior to 1975.

PRE REVOLUTIONARY: Made before some revolution, not the American.

PROBABLY CONFEDERATE: Probably NOT.

LOTS OF ORIGINAL FINISH: Two screw heads show some blue.

SOME ORIGINAL FINISH: One screw head shows some blue.

SMOOTH WEAR: All checkering, edges & lettering gone.

NICE AGE PATINA: Solid coat of rust.

WILL CLEAN UP: Maybe with an industrial wire wheel.

ACTION NEEDS MINOR TUNING: Internal parts broken, missing and can never be made to function again.

NEEDS A LITTLE WORK: Springfield armory at it's peak couldn't repair it.

TIGHT: Amazing what a little epoxy glue can do.

SHOOTABLE: Only if you're suicidal.

NEEDS A LITTLE TIGHTENING: Only one or two major parts have fallen off.

MINOR REPLACEMENT PARTS: The frame & maybe the barrel are original.

VERY GOOD BORE: Traces of rifling amid the pitting.

GOOD BORE: The pitting seems to form a pattern.

FAIR BORE: You can still see light through it.

POOR BORE: The dark at the end of the tunnel.

HAIRLINE CRACK: Stock split in two pieces.

SMALL CHIP IN STOCK: Nothing supports the barrel.

SMALL WOOD REPAIR: Replaced stock.

MINOR BUMPS & DINGS: The gun has been used as a hammer for at least two generations.

 

[Thor]

Then again maybe this discussion is relevant.

Barrel wear and the CMP gauge [Archive] - CMP Forums

(after reading through it though I still don't know what a 7 would imply...so I'm back to guessing 70%)

 

[ATM]

Thought we were gonna debate the relative merits of Rhino-vs-ATM and their ability to interest us.

$5 on ATM

In a bore contest, I'd slam dunk rhino like a well-armed lobster in a vat of clarified butter.

 

[Leadeye]

I've asked that question a lot of times, on the average of guns I've purchased, 7+ was good to go shooting for me. Like you I shoot everything I own, some less than others though.