Another acquisition: another S/W 64 SS 6 shot

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  • doddg

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    Those that follow my ramblings are just as surprised as I am.
    I just bought a Smith Shield 9 ($280) last week, after selling my Walther PPS LE ($300) and I already had bought a Smith 64-7 ($400) to replace my Smith 10-8 police special ($275).

    I am not in buying mode, and I even have my Ruger LC9 for sale now, but yet here I sit with two S/W 64 38 SS 4" revolvers.
    I ran across the gun days ago and had my eye on it and the price was right, but I didn't need it (just bought one for $400), but the price dropped a little and I just lost control.
    I told my wife not to worry, I'd sell one of them when I decide which one to keep.
    It is a model 64-8 38 special +p, not a police trade in, and bought it from the original owner with not many shells through it, stayed in the safe.
    My other one is a 64-7 and doesn't say +p on the barrel like the "new" one, or the 64-8 says.

    1st one: 2nd one:
    64-7 64-8
    4" barrel 4" barrel
    barrel says: .38 S.&W. Special CTG. barrel says: .38 S&W SPL. +P
    grips: expose the metal 3/4 the way down grip: covers the back "spine" and has the screw that goes through the middle of the handle
    the "back" or "spine" and has a screw
    in the bottom of the grip and the word,
    Hogue


    Note: the ends of the barrels look a little different.
    The 64-7 has a different look at the very end being a smooth rounded edge.

    The 64-8 looks a little bigger (b/c +P??) and there is a rib (circular edge like an insert in the barrel) around the end of the barrel.
    Sorry I don't have the terminology or the expertise to communicate it well.
    I'd send pics but that take a bit and I'm going to bed. If anyone wants to see, let me know.

    They are both essentially the same to this novice.
    Should I keep the one that says: +9?
    I thought the other one could be used with +P, even if it didn't say so on the barrel.

    Is there any advantage to the 64-7 or 64-8 models?
    I suppose the 64-8 is newer?
    I would not know which was 64-7 or 64-8 to look at them except in a descriptor telling of the differences I mentioned.
    Do you tell b/c of serial numbers.
    When it comes to selling, is one worth more than the other?
     

    Snapdragon

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    Shoot them and see if you feel a difference. All things being equal, I'd probably still keep the one marked +P.

    Can you post pics of them?
     

    VERT

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    I would sell your LC9 and that Taurus 709 you mentioned in another post. Then keep both revolvers. Just pack your 642 in your pocket and keep the 64s because K frames are awesome. Nothing wrong with revolvers in the hands of someone who can shoot them. Besides you can't keep a brace of revolvers next to the bed without a couple revolvers.
     

    doddg

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    Shoot them and see if you feel a difference. All things being equal, I'd probably still keep the one marked +P.
    Can you post pics of them?

    1. Certainly, this evening.
    2. I didn't do so last evening b/c of it being late, but I look forward to doing it now that I was shown about Imgur: easy, but getting the pics from my phone to cmp downloaded takes a little time.
    3. That's what I told my wife last evening about the +P


    I would sell your LC9 and that Taurus 709 you mentioned in another post. Then keep both revolvers. Just pack your 642 in your pocket and keep the 64s because K frames are awesome. Nothing wrong with revolvers in the hands of someone who can shoot them. Besides you can't keep a brace of revolvers next to the bed without a couple revolvers.

    4. As you know the LC9 is in the Classifieds and the 709 will be when I get around to it.
    5. Keep both revolvers? :laugh: I wish.
    6. If I was going to keep a bevy of revolvers, they would be .22, b/c that is what I love: small calibers.
    7. I did go crazy and talk with the guy that was selling Colts last week or two: 38 and 357.
    8. I would love to have a small break down barrel of the Beretta 25 or 32 or a litlle small Colt (semi) of the same or Browning: that's what I did back 30 years ago, and do I wish I would have kept my Baretta.
    9. I ordered an Ergo Delta grip for my 642, and hopefully that will solve my shooting issues and still be concealable.
    10. If not, I'll put only a few rounds through it at the range and use my 22 and 9 mm for more extensive shooting.
     

    pokersamurai

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    As you probably know, all of the different dash numbers correspond to a slight change in the 64.

    64 no dash 1970
    64-1 1972- intro Hvy BBl
    64-2 1977- Gas ring change
    64-3 1977-Gas ring change on 4"
    64-4 1988- New yoke retention
    64-5 1988- Hammer nose bushing and yoke retention on Heavy barrel
    64-6 1998- MIM hammer, floating firing pin, internal change
    64-7 2002- Key lock
    64-8 2004- 2 piece barrel

    Your 64-8's barrel looks different because it is the 2 piece design. I personally don't like the 2 piece barrels, mainly because I don't find them as aesthetically appealing and they break with the classic S&W manufacturing methods; however, some shooters swear that the 2 piece barrels are capable of more accuracy.

    Also, all K Frame S&W revolvers made after they went to the new numbering system are rated for +P rated, but not all of them say that on the barrel. In fact, the Oklahoma State Police had S&W make them a special run of 64's chambered in 357 Mag which eventually led S&W to creating the model 65. So both your 64's are more than capable of handling +p loads.
     

    doddg

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    As you probably know, all of the different dash numbers correspond to a slight change in the 64.

    64 no dash 1970
    64-1 1972- intro Hvy BBl
    64-2 1977- Gas ring change
    64-3 1977-Gas ring change on 4"
    64-4 1988- New yoke retention
    64-5 1988- Hammer nose bushing and yoke retention on Heavy barrel
    64-6 1998- MIM hammer, floating firing pin, internal change
    64-7 2002- Key lock
    64-8 2004- 2 piece barrel

    Your 64-8's barrel looks different because it is the 2 piece design. I personally don't like the 2 piece barrels, mainly because I don't find them as aesthetically appealing and they break with the classic S&W manufacturing methods; however, some shooters swear that the 2 piece barrels are capable of more accuracy.

    Also, all K Frame S&W revolvers made after they went to the new numbering system are rated for +P rated, but not all of them say that on the barrel. In fact, the Oklahoma State Police had S&W make them a special run of 64's chambered in 357 Mag which eventually led S&W to creating the model 65. So both your 64's are more than capable of handling +p loads.

    1. Makes sense about the +P, when I was researching about my 10-8 old police Smith I read info about the revolvers and when they could handle +P, but I didn't remember the particulars.
    2. Is there no designation written on the gun about the model number (embedded in a serial number, for example), if so, I will look to confirm b/c I'm just taking the word of the seller for it at this point.
    3. I assume the 1972 heavier barrel was when a hotter +P could be used.
    4. You scared me when I read the words, "...they break with..." I read it again and was relieved. :laugh:
    5. Thanks so much: you were a wealth of information!
     

    doddg

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    Do both the 64s have the "Hillary Hole" lock?

    1. I know one does, but I think both do (all well be revealed in pics tonight).
    2. But, I don't have the key, as far as I know, maybe there is one in the box of the 1st one (64-7)?
    3. The 2nd one (10-8) did not have a box.
     

    pokersamurai

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    2. Is there no designation written on the gun about the model number (embedded in a serial number, for example), if so, I will look to confirm b/c I'm just taking the word of the seller for it at this point.

    If you open up your cylinder the model number with the dash will be stamped inside.


    For example here is a picture of a 686-3
    2013-01-09_235302_s-w-serial-number_jpg_thumbnail0.jpg
     

    doddg

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    pics as promised, compliments of Imgur
    The first one I bought couple of weeks ago: 64-7 ($400)
    2nd one I bought last night: 64-8
    I'll be selling one of them for $400, and probably keep the 64-8.
    I'll go to the range, but this novice won't be able to tell any difference.
    We'll see if the Hogue grips are any better feel over the stock S/W grips.
    Theoretically, it should since the Hogue covers most of the metal spine/back of grip.

    10-7 on left 10-8 on right
    yUT6SHYl.jpg
    I

    Hogue grips on left 64-7
    UJb3fTNl.jpg


    Hogue grips on right 64-7
    wDQcx7Wl.jpg



    64-7 on right
    PV6QSdtl.jpg


    Hogue grip on bottom 64-7
    DA888UWl.jpg



    Hilary Hole on both
    7H8XqBOl.jpg



    Right side of barrel on both (forgot to rotate)
    3fKnHhLl.jpg



    left side of barrel 64-8
    PDGZWWAl.jpg



    left side of barrel 64-7
    SB65iAal.jpg



    64-8
    VY7Wdo4l.jpg



    64-8
    xMd58tNl.jpg


    side end of barrel 64-8
    oqN0dlGl.jpg



    side end of barrel 64-7
    3LDF1gjl.jpg



    end of barrels left side 64-8 right side 64-7
    9yzUDbSl.jpg



    right side Hogue grips on 64-7
    SIy6tOPl.jpg
     
    Last edited:

    cosermann

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    I'd have no qualms about a limited diet of +p in either of these all-steel model 64s (which are both post-2000 mfg). None at all.
     

    doddg

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    I'd have no qualms about a limited diet of +p in either of these all-steel model 64s (which are both post-2000 mfg). None at all.

    1. I wondered about the year of manufacture.
    2. The 64-8 was bought from a store recently (not sure if that is 1 yr. or 5 yrs.
    3. I now wish I would have quizzed the original owner more, but just curious, doesn't really matter.
     

    mcapo

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    East of Hoosier45 - West of T-dogg
    As per S&W Standard Catalog...

    64-7 was a 2002 to 2003 model period. First model with Internal Key Lock. Likely 2003 build.

    64-8 was 2004 forward. Introduction of Two Piece Barrel design. DCX isn't list but no D_ _ series are listed after 2008.

    I'd guess 2003 and 2008 but that is a WAG. S&W serial numbers are difficult to relate to an exact build date. The only definitive way to establish a build date without the box is a letter from Smith & Wesson Historical Foundation - Letter Process - Insuring that the rich history of Smith & Wesson will continue for generations to come and $65. They may be new enough that a phone call to S&W would provide info??
     
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