2k rds thru my gp100 match champ

[throttletony]

Hi all,
I have a GP100 match champ with some extra "kitchen table" gunsmithing (spring, extra shims, polishing).
I recently hit 2k rounds thru the gun and it is running smoothly. (Maybe closer to 2400)
The most I've shot it between cleanings was about 375-400 rds... but i had to run a brush through the chambers since brass was sticking and not inserting easily.

When shooting a lot of 38 spl, ive noticed that the front of chamber, at the leading edge of throat (gap between a shorter 38 spl and a 357 mag) gets really mucky from my plated 125 gr reloads.

Overall, it's been a great gun and is shaping up to be an heirloom piece. I just wanted to share that it is running great and I'm diggin it!!

 

[throttletony]

P.s. i know that this may be considered a "low round count " to some, but for me that's pretty good!!
Reloading has made this possible.

 

[Skullglide]

I have about 3500 down range from my 3” Adj sight GP100. Mostly 158 SWC. They are great guns.

 

[Hopper]

Fantastic to both of you guys, love hearing this! TT - I know the MC already has hammer shims from the factory. What else did you shim, or did you change the size of the shims? Also, I presume you went with the Wolff spring upgrades? Not that it's something that would matter to longevity, but is yours the fixed Novac rear sight model, or the adjustable sight version?

Skull - I really like the 3" GP100 proportions, and bet yours has great balance too. If Ruger comes out with a 3" MC (I know they have the Wiley Clapp model, but it's not the same factory upgrades as the Match Champ IMO), I'm going to have to look really hard at it.

 

[throttletony]

Hopper - I shimmed the trigger and the hammer dog (you're right, the hammer is already shimmed from factory -- but i put in slightly thicker shims for the hammer as well) original hammer shims were .005" x2, and i put in .007" x2.
I got them from triggershimsDOTcom - a nice dude from Jackson, MI.

 

[throttletony]

And to answer your other question, i habe the fixed sight version and love it.
Easily adjustable for windage, and elevation is within 1" with all the different loads ive fired in both 357mag and 38 sp. - at 7 and 10 yards.
I might see more variance if i walked it out to 25 or 50 yds

 

[whiskeytangofoxtrot]

The more rounds I get through my MC, the slicker, smoother, and better I get at shooting it.

 

[Hopper]

Hopper - I shimmed the trigger and the hammer dog (you're right, the hammer is already shimmed from factory -- but i put in slightly thicker shims for the hammer as well) original hammer shims were .005" x2, and i put in .007" x2.
I got them from triggershimsDOTcom - a nice dude from Jackson, MI.

Got it. I've seen a video that walks you through shimming the trigger as well, didn't know if you had ever torn into that kind of project. It didn't look difficult, and as much as I'm a S&W guy, I've always really liked Ruger's modular design. No sideplate, nice clean lines... just a different engineering expression that pretty much lets you go down to a bare frame in minutes.

But I digress... I *love* seeing reports like this, that your revolvers are taking a pounding, and asking for more!

 

[throttletony]

Yeah, i know my gp100s on a very intimate level, lol.
I had a regular 4", then got a match champion later.

The website sp101triggerjobDOTcom has awesome instruction for tuning the gp100 and sp101 triggers (same design )

 

[x10]

A bunch of rounds is great but how's the accuracy in terms of bulls eye gun type accuracy. I've worked with several revolvers over the years and found the lock time of the ruger to be a problem. Does the Champ have the transfer bar system or does it strike the firing pin.

I have a GP100 4 inch Full underlug and while it shoots well, it just doesn't shoot as well as some of my Bulls eye guns. When I shot my GP100 against a S$W 686 the smith edged it out on accuracy both benched and offhand and I think a bit of that was the lock time. Both had good triggers and I think the overall bulk of the Ruger would be a better gun than the Smith if everything else was equal.

I think for an everyday shooter the coil spring of the ruger is a longer lasting system but seems to give you a different feel. I'm not sure that the Stack up of the leaf spring in Smiths isn't part of the lock time issue. In that the initial force of the spring is greater at the time when the hammer has to gain the most inertia. (an object at rest tends to stay at rest)

With the price of the S&W product rising all the time. I would like to see someone Take a ruger and put a fresh barrel on it. Time and square the cylinder and make it into a competition gun. And if it performed (which I can't imagine it wouldn't) Then we would have a new frame to start building competition guns on.

If you get a chance to group it with some full wad cutters or HBWC, I would love to see the groups

 

[throttletony]

x10 -
It has a transfer bar system, just like standard gp100.
To my knowledge, the only parts that are different are:
- Slab side barrel - but same rifling and processes
- Sights - dovetailed in the fixed sight version, or a dovetail front and ruger adj rear (I actually like the old "standard" front sight, since it's so easy to change with the plunger)
- included hammer shims
- rounded cylinder (front edge beveled off) - I really like the looks of this, but it's mostly an aesthetic thing
- chamfered charge holes
- stippled, Hogue wood grips

Other than that, I believe it is identical to the standard gp100.

Since you mention lock time, the Ruger is functionally a bit different than the s&w (as you know). I've never had shaving or misalignment at the forcing cone. The springs are and easy fix with immediate payoff -- I left a medium heavy return spring so that I can't outrun the trigger or pull before it actually resets. The timing seems great, but my one suggestion would be to have a slightly enlarged cylinder latch (part 15 on schematics) for tighter lockup. THere is a little rotational wiggle when in full lock up (well within their normal tolerances), but if that could be minimized and trued to the bore, this thing would be a laser beam.

You asked about bullseye shooting, I'd get different sights for that, but out of the box this thing is good, with $30 in springs and shims and 45 minutes of hands on, it is VERY good.

Edit to add: I have seen a few customized/rebarreled GP100s on the interwebs. When I was looking for someone to cut this for moonclips, I found a few bullseye GP100s, but certainly not a commonplace item. (Still waiting to have it machined for moonclips... funding and time)

 

[throttletony]

forgot to mention - Next time I buy some projectiles, I'll get some HBWC or SWC and try to dial it in a bit more.

 

[Skullglide]

The match champion is next on my list. I was wanting a 3” sp101 for a woods gun, when another member dropped the adj sight gp100 3” on me. I have not looked back. I have used very light 38 special to full house 357 and 180 grain hsm bear loads. This thing eats them all. Mine wears a match champion grip. I wear this gun pretty much everydY at home while working outside and carry it fairly often away from home. Next year I might shoot icore with it.

 

[x10]

One of these day's looks like I'm going to have to get a champ and try it out. I think I'll talk to my local smith about what he can do to shorten the hammer fall, Making it a single action doesn't bother me. I can live without the moon clips, My S&W 25 uses them and it is nice to have everything ready to go but My 38 cal guns don't and I don't really have a preference between the 2 types of ammo delivery. If your going moon clips I have to say it's worth spending the money on a good mooning and separate de-mooning tool.

 

[EricG]

Excellent. Ive been kicking around the idea of getting one myself.