A Noob With a Revolver

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  • oze

    Mow Ho
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    Took oze junior to the range yesterday; he shot an Evil AR (run for your lives). And since I had so much fun last week with the Coonan, I was craving more .357 magnum fun, so I rented a Ruger SP101.

    The good news is that I had no stovepipes this time. But I did encounter something about which I previously never heard: halfway through my first box of ammo, it became difficult/impossible to eject the spent casings. I actually feared that I had effed something up. Took it to the RO, who said this was fairly common as the brass expands when it gets hot. Sounded ok to me, so I took breaks now and then. The problem never fully resolved itself, and it got to the point where I couldn't get a round fully seated in one chamber (.357 nor .38).

    I understand that this might be common, but I don't think it's normal, is it? My noobie eyes told me that the gun looked clean, but something tells me that was not true.

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    mcapo

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    Range guns have a rough life and, depending upon the range, might not get cleaned to the extent required. I'd vote for crud build up from cheap ammo or too infrequent of cleaning. Could be weak brass or wear in the chambers but those rugers are tanks.

    Stuck brass though is a matter of degrees. Not unusual to have a little expansion and some resistance but if they are "stuck" that is not correct.

    The stovepipes with the Coonan might have been grip related or same as above. Had a friend with a 357 Coonan. It was awesome - I should have bought it when he sold it...
     
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    oze

    Mow Ho
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    Range guns have a rough life and, depending upon the range, might not get cleaned to the extent required. I'd vote for crud build up from cheap ammo or too infrequent of cleaning. Could be weak brass or wear in the chambers but those rugers are tanks.

    Stuck brass though is a matter of degrees. Not unusual to have a little expansion and some resistance but if they are "stuck" that is not correct.

    The stovepipes with the Coonan might have been grip related or same as above. Had a friend with a 357 Coonan. It was awesome - I should have bought it when he sold it...
    Thanks for the reply; maybe I should ask for a refund of my $10 "cleaning fee". The stovepipes last week were almost certainly my fault; my stubby fingers couldn't wrap completely around the ginormous grip. There's a thread around here somewhere about that experience. Actually, it ended up getting hijacked in a most humorous way.

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    G192127

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    My guess is a pass or two with a bore brush and some hoppes in the chambers would have fixed it...
    I experience similar problems in a colt revolver if I shoot "shorts".
     

    BehindBlueI's

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    Took it to the RO, who said this was fairly common as the brass expands when it gets hot.

    Lulz, no.

    The chambers were most likely filthy. Especially when you shoot a lot of .38 in a .357, you get a ring of crusty powder residue. That builds up and makes it harder to get cartridges in and empties out.

    Decent explanation here: Fouled Cylinder Chambers from using .38 in .357 | Grey Arsenal

    although I personally wouldn't use a drill to clean it.
     

    oze

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    My guess is a pass or two with a bore brush and some hoppes in the chambers would have fixed it...
    I experience similar problems in a colt revolver if I shoot "shorts".
    Next week, a .44 magnum, which will complete the list of the available rentals. I'm hoping to get a taker on the guitar amp I'm selling so that I can rescue my CZ 75D Compact PCR from layaway and stop this rental nonsense.

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    billybob44

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    Will not happen with guns that you OWN....

    When you own a piece of equipment you take better care of it than a rental..

    Cases will stick unless the cylinder has had the crud removed.

    The cases that stick in a clean revolver are too HOT to be shooting...Bill
     

    oze

    Mow Ho
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    Lulz, no.

    The chambers were most likely filthy. Especially when you shoot a lot of .38 in a .357, you get a ring of crusty powder residue. That builds up and makes it harder to get cartridges in and empties out.

    Decent explanation here: Fouled Cylinder Chambers from using .38 in .357 | Grey Arsenal

    although I personally wouldn't use a drill to clean it.
    Aha, thanks. That makes sense to me. And yeah, mea culpa, I shot a box of .38 specials after the .357s. Felt like I was shooting a BB gun by comparison, like swinging a weighted bat before stepping up to the plate.

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    mcapo

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    Next week, a .44 magnum, which will complete the list of the available rentals. I'm hoping to get a taker on the guitar amp I'm selling so that I can rescue my CZ 75D Compact PCR from layaway and stop this rental nonsense.

    Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

    I picked up a PCR a few weeks ago. Great great firearm! Hoping my CGW parts show up today for it.
     

    doddg

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    I sympathize with you and not to worry about it (like I do).
    I understand that it should not happen with a Tier 1 gun or even Tier 2, but the cleaning is the X-factor like so many of the knowledgeable ones have said (I'm a newbie and inexperienced).
    I had this happen with a Charter Arms snubbie 9mm that I bought just for the fun of it to use my less expensive 9mm shells at the range that I had 1000s of, instead of .38 specials that I don't (and twice the price, not quite, but you get the point).

    After firing about 6 cylinder fulls, it started to stick, and by the time I got to 9-10 cylinders: impossible to get out w/o individual expulsion with a pencil.
    I sent it back to Charter Arms and they said they put another cylinder and extractor in it (Chris, at Marksman Shooting Sports in Westfield where I bought it took care of it for me).
    It was better when I got it back, but started doing it again, so I figured it was the nature of the beast: getting hot and expanding?
    That is what everyone was telling me: Charter Arms: much bought but little shot, so OK for most people.

    I sent it back again since it didn't cost me anything the 2nd time (paid 1-way first time), but I haven't got it back yet.
    It would be fine for "normal" use since I don't shoot that many cylinders at the range anyway (not my idea of fun) with my small snubbies.
    (Now with my 4" Smith .38: wonderful).
    I actually like my Taurus snubble w/hammer better than my Smith hammerless, and neither had any sticking issues when I tested them running multiple cylinders with them.
     

    BehindBlueI's

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    I understand that it should not happen with a Tier 1 gun or even Tier 2, but the cleaning is the X-factor like so many of the knowledgeable ones have said

    I'm not sure what you're trying to say, but this isn't about the quality of the manufacturer. When you shoot the shorter .38 in the longer .357 chamber, you get buildup in that little "gap" area that the .357 brass covers but the .38 brass doesn't. The dirtier the ammo, and the more you shoot, the more it builds up. Don't clean it, or don't clean it properly, and you eventually get sticky chambers.

    Tolerances can, of course, play a role. Sloppy over-sized chambers can hold more crud than tight tolerances can.
     

    doddg

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    I'm not sure what you're trying to say, but this isn't about the quality of the manufacturer. When you shoot the shorter .38 in the longer .357 chamber, you get buildup in that little "gap" area that the .357 brass covers but the .38 brass doesn't. The dirtier the ammo, and the more you shoot, the more it builds up. Don't clean it, or don't clean it properly, and you eventually get sticky chambers.

    Tolerances can, of course, play a role. Sloppy over-sized chambers can hold more crud than tight tolerances can.

    1. Sorry, I was only addressing my limited experience with .38 snubbies and should have kept my dog out of the fight (that's WV or KY talk for "my 2 cents." :laugh:
     

    oze

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    1. Sorry, I was only addressing my limited experience with .38 snubbies and should have kept my dog out of the fight (that's WV or KY talk for "my 2 cents."
    My bro in law from North Carolina says the same thing.

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    singlesix

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    I shoot 38s for Steel and 357s for pins, same revolver, no issues with cases sticking. As stated good cleaning is the key.

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    gregkl

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    I have had some hunting rounds for my .44 for several years. I have only ever shot like 1 at a time deer hunting. They were full house 240gr HOT loads. Not above any manual at the time(however, they are now). I could always remove the spent casing.

    Once at a range, I let a guy shoot a cylinder of them. I had to tap the ejector to get the spent casings out. I guess shooting a full cylinder of them made the cases expand enough to make it a tight fit.

    I still have a few rounds left. I'm thinking about de-loading them.
     

    Kirk Freeman

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    I'm not sure what you're trying to say, but this isn't about the quality of the manufacturer. When you shoot the shorter .38 in the longer .357 chamber, you get buildup in that little "gap" area that the .357 brass covers but the .38 brass doesn't. The dirtier the ammo, and the more you shoot, the more it builds up. Don't clean it, or don't clean it properly, and you eventually get sticky chambers.

    Tolerances can, of course, play a role. Sloppy over-sized chambers can hold more crud than tight tolerances can.

    Yeah, um, I have a friends that found a bunch of Bullseye on sale at a gun shop in Logansport and he . . . made a really good deal for a whole bunch of it and he does his handloads with it and things get . . . icky quickly no matter the maker and he shoots Smith as well as the high end stuff.
     
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